Wierd Problem- Experts help

oh well, I really apprecaite everyones help throughout this thread, special thanks to mike 38sc and BobGPZ, learned a lot from you guys and hopefully this thread will be able to help other people who expereince my problem(s) down the road

:p :p
 
Billabong089 said:
thanks ;) Well I cant really go and solder them because If i cut off the splice connect I'll have no wire left to do anything with, its running good so I guess I'll leave it as is, the splice connects always seem to work good ( actually read they were better than soldier since if you bend and move it around the wires can start to loosen when you solder but with splice connects they are crimped on and more likely to stay on with bendable movements ), I guess i'll worry about problems down the road, the only thing that I get scared of is my car going on fire or something, I'm parnoid like that lol.

Did you put a corrosion inhibitor in the splice before you crimped it? If not it is going to fail, period.

Remove all the tape and liquid tape (yuck) and cut the insulation off of the crimp connector.

Solder the wires into the crimp, you don't need to remove the crimp.

Wash all of the flux residue off with alcohol or a solvent used for cleaning electronics. If you use brake cleaner or MEK, etc. try not to get any on the wires insulation it will damage it over time.

Now coat the splice with a couple of layers of liquid electrical tape.
The best way is to get some self-vulcanizing tape designed especially for wire repair, but it is expensive and is not really needed.

Don't bother with wrapping it with electrical tape - it does not provide any protection under the extreme conditions found under your hood. The tape ford uses IS NOT the stuff you use for your house.

If you can disassemble the crimp without cutting the wire, then do that and use 3M's eps-300 shrink tubing to cover over a new crimp that has been soldered in place.

I will look around and see if I have a foot of the correct size tubing to send you if you want to go ahead with a permanent repair.

Aaron
 
well theres no way I can disassemble the crimps ( I doubled crimped both sides to make sure they wouldn't come loose ) so you want me to cut the plastic off the crimp, soldier it ( any special kind ? or is electrical soldier good? ) and the cover it in liquid eletrical tape?

http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?p=4203&searchtype=ecat

good ?? ^^ ??

I got a $15 off discount so I could pick that up for $10ish.


But anyway do you really think its nessacary? I dont think those wires get that hot... but I can get $15 off so if thats the best stuff tell me and I will buy and I wanna order it before 6pm so it gets shipped today ;)
 
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Hey Billy I see you got it going, Thats GREAT!
Odd coincadence(spelling) you wiggling wires and the DIS module starts to act up. Sure had me barking up the wrong tree!
Thats the reason I got upset when you started cutting wires. I dont like to cut any wires until I'm 110% sure it has to be done and I wasnt there yet, thats why I wanted to do more testing first.
Anyway I'm glad you got it straightened out. Good luck to you!:)
 
Thanks mike :-D


Ok so what I'm going to do, i bought the msd self-vulcanizing tape for $23 - $15 summit certificate so it wasn't that bad, get 12feet of it

So tell me if this is a good perminate repair that wont give me problems down the line, cut off the plastic around the crimps, soldier the insides and all around, then coat it in liquid electrical tape, then cover it in the expenisve tape( msd tape ) lol and put wire loom around the wires and ... ? should I cover teh wire looms in sort of tape? I know they had tape on them when I took it off....

Alright later guys
 
Don't bother with the self-vulcanizing tape - its too expensive for this job. I always have some around because I use it at work.

Just use flux core electronics solder (63%/37% or 2% silver) from radio shack. If you don't solder the joint it will oxidize and you will run into some freakish problems in about two years.

Make sure you clean all of the remaining flux off the connection and cover it with the liquid electrical tape - I looked it up and it seems to be a good product. At 1210V/mil, you will get very good protection from this stuff.

You can get a used harness pretty cheap so don't kill yourself trying to repair this one.

Aaron
 
well I already bought the tape so yea..... lol but its good right?, I like to buy the best ;) not to mention i'm sure the tape will come in handy some other time, I'll add it to my collection of useless junk that I'll never use again after I use it once.


But anyway thanks for the help.
 
That tape is GOLD. It will give you a true repair of the insulation over a joint. Don't worry, it you got a roll for ~10 bucks you didn't waste your money.

Aaron
 
last question, then i'm done lol, Should I cover the wire looms in anything? any special tape? electrical tape ok or is there some special heat resistant tape I can get? I dont know what ford puts on them.
 
A couple of wraps of electrical tape at the ends and scattered along the length is fine. You just need to hold it closed. If you put too much the adhesive will run under the heat and you'll end up with a sticky mess.


Aaron
 
I hate to raise the dead on a 3 year old topic, but before wasting bandwidth with a new topic I wanted to ask a question.

I'm having the same problem on my car as billabong was, but the difference is that mine is a '94. I had to redo the timing chain cover as it was cracked internally by the previous owner and after doing some reworking, the valve chatter is gone, the inability to continue running is gone, and now the only thing left is what acts like 2 dead cylinders. We used the factory Ford Service Technician's website to track down and install all parts associated with the front and top of the motor as well as the wiring for the fuel injectors, and the firing order. I want to check to see if I should follow the same diagrams/procedures with checking the resistance on the coil pack (which was purchased and installed last week) checking the spark plugs and wires, and checking the DIS module.

Thanks for any help...
 
Did you allign the Camshaft position sensor correctly? Maybe the sensor is bad.

Disconnect the cam sensor before starting, then try to start the car. You may have to cycle ON and OFF a few times, because the PCM has to guess when to fire. Should work for ya. If the car runs better, than your cam sesor is bad. If there is no difference, then it is some where else.

Let us know what happens.
 
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