Billabong089 said:
thanks Well I cant really go and solder them because If i cut off the splice connect I'll have no wire left to do anything with, its running good so I guess I'll leave it as is, the splice connects always seem to work good ( actually read they were better than soldier since if you bend and move it around the wires can start to loosen when you solder but with splice connects they are crimped on and more likely to stay on with bendable movements ), I guess i'll worry about problems down the road, the only thing that I get scared of is my car going on fire or something, I'm parnoid like that lol.
Did you put a corrosion inhibitor in the splice before you crimped it? If not it is going to fail, period.
Remove all the tape and liquid tape (yuck) and cut the insulation off of the crimp connector.
Solder the wires into the crimp, you don't need to remove the crimp.
Wash all of the flux residue off with alcohol or a solvent used for cleaning electronics. If you use brake cleaner or MEK, etc. try not to get any on the wires insulation it will damage it over time.
Now coat the splice with a couple of layers of liquid electrical tape.
The best way is to get some self-vulcanizing tape designed especially for wire repair, but it is expensive and is not really needed.
Don't bother with wrapping it with electrical tape - it does not provide any protection under the extreme conditions found under your hood. The tape ford uses IS NOT the stuff you use for your house.
If you can disassemble the crimp without cutting the wire, then do that and use 3M's eps-300 shrink tubing to cover over a new crimp that has been soldered in place.
I will look around and see if I have a foot of the correct size tubing to send you if you want to go ahead with a permanent repair.
Aaron