rebuilding engine (any tips)

creeperxr7

Registered User
im going to start rebuilding my engine tommorrow i hope just wanted to see if any body had any pionters or tips to start the job off .....................:confused:
 
rebuilding engine any tips

How you rebuild your engine really depends on ehat you want from stock to really wild. I suggest you go over the forums and see what everybody else has done. A stock rebuild with bolt on mods will gain a lot. On the other hand as long as you have it apart now is the time for cam pistons rods. Really the sky is the limit. Tim
 
Creeper at the very least I would recomend that you use plastigauge and check ALL of your clearances on your bearings and make sure everything is torqued down to spec.
How far did you tear the engine down?
 
hey guys? sorry for not replying sooner mike i had to be out all weekend and didnt have a chance to get started on anything... and yes i got plastigauge handy already... but what are the best ranges of clearence for this engine ... on mains and rods and then what are the best torque for the bolts on main caps and rods.. because the specs dont give a precise amount but a range like for example on the main bolts.. its like 65 to 85 i believe... So what would be the best for each ....
 
and as for how far i tore the engine down its completly down took my standard block checked out ok ... did all the machine work it needed took my good cranked polished out standard so the machine guy said got all new main and rod bearings rings... so ya its completly torn.. pistons, chain tensioner, timming gear, gaskets, all i got left to do is to surface the heads.. thats if im not fogeting any thing
 
rebuilding engine

As long as you have it all apart I would o-ring the block. Port match the intake manifold to the gasket and than match the intake side of the head to the gasket. The oval hole that is at the back of the manifold can be brought out quit a bit to match the gasket same with the intake plenium that bolts to it. Small things like this are not to hard to to and will make a differance. Tim
 
Creeper I'm listing some things from the Ford manual for you. I torque everything to the lowest value first and then go back and tighten to the highest value unless I note otherwise.

Lightly oil all retaining bolt and stud threads before installation except those specifying special sealant.

1. If removed, install oil gallery and cooling jacket plugs. Tighten plugs to specification.

Before installation, coat plug threads with Pipe Sealant with Teflon® D8AZ-19554-A (ESG-M4G194-A and ESR-M18P7-A) or equivalent.

To provide clearance for camshaft sprocket, oil gallery plugs on front of engine must be threaded below machined surface.

2. Install crankshaft as follows:

a. Install main bearing inserts in cylinder block. Note that third bearing from front is the thrust bearing. Rear main bearing on supercharged engine is unique.

b. Lubricate bearing inserts with Oil Conditioner D9AZ-19579-CA (ESR-M99C80-A) or equivalent heavy engine oil, and carefully lower crankshaft into place. Use care to prevent damage to bearing surfaces.

c. Apply a 3mm (1/8 inch) bead of Silicone Rubber, D6AZ-19562-BA (ESB-M4G92-A and ESE-M4G195-A) or equivalent to cylinder block rear main bearing cap parting line.

d. Install bearing inserts in main caps and install caps. Note that caps are numbered with triangles. Number one is located at the front of engine with triangle facing front of engine.

e. Install main bearing cap retaining bolts.

f. Before tightening bearing cap retaining bolts, wedge a large screwdriver between cylinder block web and crankshaft cheek located in front of No. 3 main bearing.
Do not jam screwdriver into place. Tap into position only enough to hold crankshaft forward while cap bolts are tightened.

g. Tighten bearing cap retaining bolts to 88-110 N-m (65-81 lb-ft) and remove screwdriver.

3. Check crankshaft end play as outlined.

4. Install pistons as follows:

a. Install bearing inserts in connecting rods and connecting rod caps.

b. Install pistons using Piston Ring Compressor D81L-6002-C or equivalent. The notch in piston dome and button on connecting rod have to face front of engine. Oil squirt hole in rod faces RH side of engine.

Lubricate piston and cylinder walls with Oil Conditioner D9AZ-19579-CA (ESR-M99C80-A) or equivalent heavy engine oil before installation.

c. Install connecting rod caps and retaining nuts. Tighten retaining nuts to 41-49 N-m (31-36 lb-ft).

5. Check connecting rod side clearance as outlined.

6. Install camshaft bore plug using a suitable driver.

Coat sealing edge of plug with Perfect-Seal Sealing Compound B5A-19554-A (ESR-M18P2-A and ESE-M4G115-A) or equivalent before installation.

7. Coat camshaft lobes with Oil Conditioner D9AZ-19579-CA (ESR-M99C80-A) or equivalent. Lubricate camshaft bearing with heavy oil SF.

8. Install camshaft and spacer.

9. Install camshaft thrust plate and tighten retaining screws to 8-14 N-m (6-10 lb-ft).

10. Install tensioner and snubber assembly. Tighten retaining screws to 8-14 N-m (6-10 lb-ft).

11. Install balance shaft spacers.

12. Lubricate timing chain with clean engine oil.

13. Rotate crankshaft, as necessary, to position crank sprocket keyway in 12 o'clock position.

14. Install camshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket and timing chain.

Ensure crankshaft keyway, cam sprocket timing mark and crank sprocket timing mark are properly aligned after installation.

15. Install distributor drive gear.

16. If water pump was removed from front cover during engine disassembly, position a new pump gasket on front cover and install water pump.

Tighten pump retaining bolts to 20-30 N-m (15-22 lb-ft).

17. Install camshaft bolt and washer assembly. Tighten bolt to 40-50 N-m (30-37 lb-ft).

18. Position a new front cover gasket on engine. Install cover and ignition timing indicator. Tighten retaining bolts to 20-30 N-m (15-22 lb-ft).

19. Install oil pickup and tube assembly using a new gasket.

Tighten retaining bolts to 20-30 N-m (15-22 lb-ft), and support bracket retaining nut to 40-55 N-m (30-40 lb-ft).

20. Install oil pan as follows:

NOTE:
Using solvent, clean oil pan and engine block seating surfaces before applying silicone sealer.

a. Using a small-blade screwdriver remove any sealer which may have been squeezed into seal groove when rear main bearing cap was installed. Place a 6.35mm (1/4 inch) bead of Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-AA or BA (ESB-M4G92-A and ESE-M4G195-A) or equivalent, into seal groove where bearing cap meets block.

b. Apply a 3mm (1/8 inch) bead of Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-BA (ESB-M4G92-A and ESE-M4G195-A) or equivalent to seams where front cover mates with cylinder block and to each end of pan end seal.

c. Apply RTV gasket material in a zig-zag pattern on engine block.

d. Install oil pan. Tighten retaining bolts to 9-12 N-m (80-106 lb-in).

21. Lubricate oil filter gasket with engine oil and install. Install and index oil cooler as outlined.

Thread filter onto adapter until gasket contacts cylinder block and then advance filter an additional one-half turn.

22. Lubricate tappets with Oil Conditioner D9AZ-19579-CA (ESR-M99C80-A) or equivalent, and install.

23. Install six guide plates and two guide plate retainers. Tighten guide plate retaining bolts to 10-14 N-m (7-10 lb-ft).

24. Install new cylinder head gaskets using dowels to align gasket.

25. Install cylinder head as outlined under Cylinder Head, Removal and Installation.

26. Install push rods, rocker arms, fulcrums and retaining bolts. Lubricate push rod ends and fulcrums with Oil Conditioner D9AZ-19579-CA (ESR-M99C80-A) or equivalent heavy engine oil before installation.

For each valve, rotate crankshaft until tappet rests on heel (base circle) of camshaft lobe. Tighten fulcrum retaining bolt to 7-15 N-m(5.1-11.0 lb-ft). Final-tighten fulcrum retaining bolts to 25-35 N-m (19-25 lb-ft). For final tightening, camshaft may be in any position.

27. Install lower intake manifold as outlined under Upper and Lower Intake Manifolds, Removal and Installation.

28. Install spark plugs. Tighten to 7-15 N-m (5-11 lb-ft).

29. Install rocker arm covers as follows:

NOTE:
Using solvent, clean valve cover and cylinder head sealing surfaces to remove all gasket material and dirt.

a. Install a new gasket onto cylinder head.

b. Install valve cover and retaining bolts. Note location of stud/bolts.

c. Tighten retaining bolts to 9-12N-m (80-106 lb-in).

30. Install distributor and hold-down clamp (EFI engines), or camshaft synchronizer and hold down clamp (supercharged engines).

31. Install crankshaft damper using Damper/Front Cover Seal Installer T82L-6316-A and Front Cover Seal Installer T70P-6B070-A or equivalent. Tighten retaining bolt to 140-180 N-m (103-132 lb-ft).

Install crankshaft pulley. Tighten retaining bolts to 26-38 N-m (20-28 lb-ft).

Print this out and use it as a check list. When you complete a step and you are satisfied that everything in that step is correct then highlight that step with a highlighter marker that will help keep you from getting confused as to where you left off incase you dont have time to work on it for awhile.
Creeper do not get in a big hurry. Take the time to do it right.
On bearing clearances I like to get them as low on the acceptable limits as I can your motor will have a longer life if you do.
I hope this helps you if you need anything else let me know.;)
 
hey mike i got a question... u said the rear bergin was unique.... how do u tell what one it is ? when i got my main bergins they looked the same how do i tell the difference?

im gettin 10 over berings in the next week and i dont wanna put the wrong one in so how do i tell
 
What there talking about there is the fact that the SC crank is already .010 undersized on the rear journal. That is what they mean by unique.
DO NOT let the machine shop turn that rear journal any smaller, just have them polish that journal.
You can have them turn the surface that the rear crank seal rides on to give you a new surface for the seal. That way you wont end up with a leaky rear crank seal. I've had them turned as much as .007 without any problems. Just tell them to turn it enough to clean up the surface and no more.
As far as the bearing sizes go look on the back of the bearing shells the size should be stamped into the back of them.
Example standard size bearings have a std. stamped in the back.
Your new oversized bearings should have .010 stamped on the back.
 
ok, but u said that the read journal is unique.. its smaller.. my crank was ground previosly so what does that mean ?

when i go and buy the 10 over berings will the one for the rear journal be unique?

how is it unique from the others??
 
ok, but u said that the read journal is unique.. its smaller.. my crank was ground previosly so what does that mean ?
Thats what makes the rear journal unique Ford already turned that journal .010 at the factory on the SC cranks. They did not do that on the std 3.8 cranks. Ford did that to the SC cranks so that a std 3.8 crank could not be accidentaly installed at the factory during the engine build. Since your crank has already been turned that would mean the first 3 mainjournals would have been turned down .010 to match the rear journal. Make sure they do not turn the rear journal again or you may not be able to get bearings for this. Bring it to the machinists attention what Ford did on that crank and make sure it does'nt get turned again.

when i go and buy the 10 over berings will the one for the rear journal be unique?When you get a set of std. size bearings for an SC you get the first 3 main bearings in std. size and 1 rear bearing in .010 undersize. You will be getting .010 undersize bearings and all 4 will be .010 undersize. Your rear bearing will no longer be unique from the others.
 
ok so bearing clearences not to as close as possible to the desired clearences but to the allowable .... that would be on rods.... 0.00086-0.0028... so u mean as close as i can to 0.00086.. .. in order to get these clearences i would have to try to mix match my bearing inserts right.. and before i sitt in the bearing inserts what should i clean the saddle and backings with and thank again ill keep u posted on how its going and let u know what kinda of clearence im on for each journal as im going trough it .....:)
 
ok so bearing clearences not to as close as possible to the desired clearences but to the allowable .... that would be on rods.... 0.00086-0.0028... so u mean as close as i can to 0.00086.. .Yes I would want them as close to the lowend measurement as I could get them. Your machinist probably ground the crank .010 under what his book told him was the std diameter so you will have what you have, at that point there will be nothing you can do about it. Once you get your parts assemble them with plastigauge and just make sure the clearance is in the acceptable range. Closer to the low end of the scale is better but anywhere in the acceptable rang is fine. I'm just very anal about things and I have to do it my way or I'm not satisfied. I get my bearings before I get my crank ground and I then install them in the block with the caps torqued down to spec. I then take an inside micrometer and measure the bearing I.D.'s I then take the I.D. measurement and subtract the clearance # I want and the answer from this math problem tells me what diameter the crank journal needs to be. I then tell my machinist what diameter to grind the crank too. I was only telling you how I do it, I'm not saying that you must do it that way. Just as long as your clearance is within the factory specs you will be fine.

in order to get these clearences i would have to try to mix match my bearing inserts rightNo you cannot do that. As long as the machinist ground the crank to a diameter .010 smaller than the stock diameter you should be fine. But as I've said before double check by using plastigauge at the very least to make sure there within spec. The reason to do this is people make mistakes were only human and even the best of us on our best days make mistakes so always double check everything. If somethings wrong you want to find it now rather than find it after you have put everything back together and possably destroy more good parts.

and before i sitt in the bearing inserts what should i clean the saddle and backings with Just wipe things clean with a lint free wipe and you will be fine. You can get packages of lint free wipes at Lowes or Home depote I think even Walmart has them. The reason you want lint free is you dont want alot of fuzzy stuff in your motor to possably get stuck in bearing or the oil pressure sending unit or stop up a lifter. Another suggestion I'll make is get yourself a couple very larg plastic garbage bags. Use the bags to cover your engine in between times you work on it You must keep everything as clean as you can while building the engine. You should also clean up the area where you are building the motor you dont want dust and dirt flying around while the engine internals are exposed. Once you've finnished working on it for the any lenght of time seal the engine up inside one of the bags and twist ty it shut. This will keep dust and dirt out as well as keeping anything from falling inside the engine when your not looking or doing something else.

ill keep u posted on how its going and let u know what kinda of clearence im on for each journal as im going trough it .....Please do that. I'm very interested in how this goes and besides that by you keeping me informed I may catch something that you did not notice and we can straighten it out before you go too far.

How's school going?:)
 
schools going great mike thank u.... just for info.. the machinest did grind my crank it was in perrty much new condition he just polished it and made sure my journal were true.... i left the other crank as is and put it away not much damage happen to it just the bearing melted on to the journal .... for now that one is out of the game ........ did my clearences........... all 3 journal gave me between a 1-1.5 clearences and the 4th gave me a 0.002 so i think im safe on their what do u think.........as for rod im going ahead and wait on the new bolts before i check clearnces on those........
 
nice work by the way it shows u really know your stuff mike...... one ? for u...:D when i took my parts to the machine shop i asked him if he would check my clearences so i took my bearings down their .. i just wanted to make sure they were on..... when i picked every thing up he told me i had a problem, that my crank was bent i said what! a forged crank bent so i checked it out and before i even did it came to my he has the bearings in the wrong spots and yes he did .. that why the crank titer totered in the block well all this comes down to this ... since he putt the bearings in the wrong place as he turned the crank with the caps on bearing oiled one of the bearing shells rubbed with the crank it didnt scoure it like dough grooves in it or nothing but i guess cause it was tigh took a little of the babbit off like u can almost see shinny on it not much tough... he said it wouldnt hurt nothing as long as it was scoured were u can feel it..... what do u think:confused:
 
i got cylinders 1.2.3 in already .... here the clearences so far for those 3 cylinder... cylinder #1. ring gap .024//// top and .021//// bottom ring....... pistion to bore clearence .045///////// rod bearing oil clearence between .0015 and .002 its a bit smaller than the .0015 line on the platigauge ruler and biger than the .002 the same for all the rest of the cylinders till now.......... i had to order the rings .. cause no one had them in stock so it delayed my rebuild awhile.........and just for the record torqued down main cap bolts to 70 ft lbs and rod cap bolts to 34 ft lbs....... amount of torque required to rotate crankshaft with the 3 pistons in the cylinders with ring draging on cylinder bores surface is 4 ft lbs ..................If u note any thing wrong let me know before i proced .................. about the ring gaps all cylinders checked out under .025 I know its .011/.012 but manuals say ring gaps aint that critical unless they are over .040 let me know .......keep u updated
 
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