Crank position sensor - test?

hmmm

yes good question. NE WAYS why i came here was to say howdy back at ya 88 (dale jarrett rocks) and to tell you i live in amarillo. Are there many SCer's in Texas????
 
Here is a link to info about hall effect sensors in general on all automotive applications:
http://www.kemparts.com/TechTalk/tt10.asp

Here is something on mopars, but the idea is similar for all Hall effect sensors. They take a voltage to operate, so a simple resistance reading is insufficient:

The Hall Effect sensor fails. This is cheap and easy to replace, but if you want to test it, Chriszw wrote that you can do this using a multimeter set to provide an audio continuity signal. Connect a 9V battery to the power and ground pins, the red test lead to the sensor signal pin, and the black test lead to the 9V battery negative terminal. Then slide a fat blade of iron, such as a feeler gauge, between the sensor and a magnet. The multimeter should stop sounding a tone, and the display should overrange. Chris suggested carrying a spare in the trunk since the sensor costs about $30 and tends to go bad. It really is a two minute job to replace it - it is in the distributor underneath the rotor. (Note: if you have DIS, or distributorless ignition, you do not have a Hall Effect sensor! All current Chrysler products have DIS, which was first used in 1991 on the Spirit R/T and was phased in on new engines and models afterwards).
 
Wynn, I'll look into it this weekend.

Do you have an extra DIS harness your willing to cut up to make a test cable?

Aaron
 
Originally posted by pastera
Wynn, I'll look into it this weekend.

Do you have an extra DIS harness your willing to cut up to make a test cable?

Aaron
No, not really, just the harness (that connects to the DIS harness) with the sensor itself.

Father...are you going to show me the darkside of the ohm world?

'bird
 
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