wanted, supecharger/parts

A

aesthetics

Registered User
i'm looking to buy the supercharger/intercooler and pipes, fuel rail,.... all the parts need to supercharge a 3.8L mustang engine. supercharge must be in good condition no leaks.
 
I sent you an email also.

The only thing I'm missing to do the full conversion is the stock intercooler, DIS module, coil pack, IAC and stuff like that. I have everything else in between, including the motor AND supercharger with inlet and top.

Let me know.
 
I have the fuel rail, with injectors, and the fuel pressure regulator. I also have most of anything else you will need. Email me for what you are looking for.
 
the SC DIS is not needed to do the swap, you can use your mustang DIS setup. The mustang coil pack will work fine as well.
 
SeanMatteson said:
The Eaton M90 will not just bolt down to the 3.8L NA lower intake manifolds.

Regards,

Sean
Click to expand...

What would you have to do to make it fit then? I suppose change the lower intake manifold...?!?!

-Sam.
 
The list.
I think Jamie wrote this. Jamie?

Here is the list of what you will need. Basically its easier and cheaper to buy the entire SC motor, but if you want to install it on your mustang block here is what you need.

-Roots blower (DUH )
-SC blower top
-SC lower intake
-SC rear blower intake with SC TB
-Rear intake (from IC to lower intake)
-SC thermostat housing
-SC jackshaft pulley bracket
-SC PS pump bracket
-SC crank pulley
-SC water pump and pulley
-PS pump pulley (you can us your mustang pump)
-SC tensioner pulleys (all 3)
-if using the SC block/crank then use the 94-95 neutral balanced dampener with exeter gear, some dampeners off the F150 will work as well.
-if using the mustang block/crank then use you stock mustang dampener
-if using the SC block/crank then use the SC flywheel/flexplate
-if using the mustang block/crank then use the mustang flywheel/flexplate
-Mustang or SC starter will be fine, they are the same
-Mustang headers
-SC heads are better but Mustang heads would probably be fine (SC heads are supposedly a little stronger)
-SC injectors or eqivilent plus matching MAF
-89-93 SC came with 30# injectors and 55mm MAF
-94-95 came with 36# injectors and 70mm MAF
-all cooling hoses
-SC thorttle cable
-SC throttle cable bracket
-MUSTANG EEC
-MUSTANG wiring harness
-wire to lengthen wiring harness connectors
-extra cooling hoses for custom work
-MUSTANG timing chain cover or 94-95 SC timing chain cover
-MUSTANG crank sensor
-MUSTANG or SC alt will work, MUSATNG better sicne it has the extra connect on it, but will work without it for the SC alt, need to change pulleys if using the Mustang Alt. I believe the Mustang alt is more powerful as well, not exactly sure.
-SC AC compressor
-custom AC lines
-custom air inlet needed
-SC intercooler should work, not sure how well the SC intercooler tubes will clear but they should
or use a custom IC setup like me
-Mustang motor mounts
-SC valve covers
-Mustang DIS module, don't need the SC one.
-SC oil cooler (not needed but good to have)
-Mustng rad will work, but if using the SC IC then might be easier to us ethe SC rad its a little smaller though but works for the SC guys fine.
-Major tuning
-SC coil pack bracket (mustang coil pack should work but I have the SC coil pack as well)
 
That's a pretty comprehensive list, but again, I would suggest you use the SC harness and EEC. I'm sure that would mean some tough modifications in so far as getting the 'Stang gauges to work with the SC wiring, but I think I'd rather deal with that than having to risk the motor blowing up due to tuning issues.

...Just my $0.02 worth.

Cheers,

Sean
 
getting the SC EEC to work woudl be way more complicted, its easy to get a good tune, I have a baseline tune in my EEC tuner and I ran a 13.9, car felt like it was bogging too. It runs great though, with more tuning we can get the HP up and the times down. I am running safely now though, no tuning issues, just for more HP. The guys at Fordhcip can make a tune for the car EASY adn be very close to having it run good. They made me a chip and the car ran fine, but there was something wrong with the actual chip or the connection and was screwing up the pump, so we put the eec tuner in. But other then the pump issue the car ran great with the FORDCHIP.

Changing the car over tot he EEC-IV system is pointless since the EEC-V setup is much better as well. And getting everything to work int he gauges woudl be a nightmare I think.
 
Jamie, no offense, but what you thought was a good tune cost you another rebuild.

...I'm still thinking I'd rather deal with making the SC harness work and not have to worry about being so far out of tune that although the motor may seem to run OK, it might be leaning out at WOT and burning a hole in a piston or something.

If I were you, Jamie, I would refrain from getting into boost on that car of yours until I knew for sure the A/F was OK, and the rest of the tuning bugs were ironed out.

...But that's just my opinion.

Regards,

Sean
 
Yes las tyear the tune was off, but somethign else was wrong too and we are not sure what. I was dumping fuel but that problem was solved ebfore the motor went, I think there was something wrong in the bottom end from day one, it knocked form day one before a tune could actually cause the problems, so the tune wasn't the major problem. I was also one of the first to do the swap but now there are a few others who have done it and a good baseline tune can be made easier now, I was like a test dummy sorta.

Again the tune wasn't the major factor in my engien going like we thought orginally, although it may have been the cause for my dumping fuel, or that coudl have been a faulty FPR as well. Who knoews really.

Unoless your a good electrician or know the wiring schematics really well of the two cars, the re-wiring could be a nightmare compared to a good dynotune.
 
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