"R" code Fuel Pump

NolanG

Registered User
It's known that many aftermarketers specify a stock pump for SC's due to ignorance, however, AutoZone NY markets an R code pump mfr'd by Masters in Illinois, part #E2098S. After verifying specs of 80-90 max psi and flow rate of 135ltr/hr-35gal/hr compared to Ford manual specs of 30-60 psi and 110ltr/hr this aftermarket pump obviously exeeds specs.

I'm running a stock 90SC, 47k miles, it's been great and still smells new but finally met up with my first no-start. I'm wondering if this excess pressure and rate would be a detriment or an advantage in a stock setup, especially where the FPR and injection system are concerned. I'll surmise that that the excess will be held in check by our wonderful EEC-IV's.

Feedback is appreciated as I've spent much time isolating the no-start condition to lack of fuel pressure. Thanks in advance-

N.-
 
Have you replaced the fuel filter yet? Cheaper than a new pump.

The fuel pressure regulator controls the pressure and excess fuel goes through the return line back to the tank so it is not a issue to go with a larger pump. Although some are concerned by the heating of the fuel as it cycles through the fuel rail.


Go with at least a 190lph pump. If you plan on leaving it stock the 190 is all you will ever need and is also good for moderate upgrades. If you ever plan on going for major mods put in a 255lph pump.


MN12 performance
http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12parts/fuel-pump-kit.htm

another source
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/

and of course Supercoupe Performance

http://www.supercoupeperformance.com/
 
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Thanks for the input-

Yes, the filter was the first likely culprit and we swapped that before running some other checks.

Last day it was running, had a hard start condition with a bit of smoke coming from low in the engine compartment. Smoke stopped, car started a few more times so I took it out and it ran fine......Got home, wouldn't start since.

Without any codes saved, it seems to be an electrical problem exclusive of any crank or cam sensor issues as there was intermittent pressure on the rail. Bad fuel pump is the next likely culprit.

Anyone experience this?

Re: the Fuel Pump from MN12, they specify that the 190lph is equivalent to 35 gph. Hmm ~4 ltr to a gallon.... something doesn't add up.

Not planning on any mods as this car is mint and likely to go for $$ at auction in a few years if I ever can let go of it.
You should see what American musclecars are bringing at Barret-Jackson and Kruse. Once you modify, you've killed it's collectible value.
Thanks again,
N.-
 
Did you visually inspect all of the wiring? Sounds like you may have burned up a wire.

Can you get the pump to run by shorting the FP terminal on the test connector. You can also check the inertia switch and fuel pump relay in the trunk (drivers quarter panel).

Aaron
 
Yes, thanks, switch was fine, good call though.

Pump comes on but not enough pressure. Suspect is indeed a bad wire yielding intermittent pressure or bad pump.

Will get it on a lift this week to verify, but still curious about aftermarket OEM pumps as per my previous post. Ordered one with a 35 gal/hr rate and 80-90 psi max pressure. My math tells me this pump has an equiv. flow rate of ~135 ltr/hr. I don't think the extra pressure is an issue provided it meets the flow rate required.

Curiously, a pump recommended by another member cites a pump from MN12 Performance which equates 35 gal/hr to 190 ltr/hr w/ max pressure @54 psi. Not sure if thats credible info.

Any feedback on that?

N.-
 
Pump Update- Saved BIG $$

Given the lack of spare time, I decided to take the car into a local shop to verify the problem. Ordered a flatbed and had the car towed on from the front but driver still managed to crack my air dam and deform lower part of nose.

Any suggestions on proper towing?
Manual is kind of vague but I would have indeed done it from the back and used some wooden ramps like we do with our Vettes. Oh well, a little buffing and a new air dam at tower's expense, no worries.

Had the pump jumpered and got about 40psi at the rail so we ruled that out.

Mechanic advised me that although he could verify my diagnosis- problem w/spark, he claimed it was intermittent and suspected module so he ordered one from Ford- $300.

WHOA! Hold it right there! This guy agreed to use parts which I could supply at wholesale and just charge me labor! Guess he got opportunistic....wont be going back there nor do I think he'd look forward to seeing me again.

Thanks to the many posts here on SCCOA discussing ignition problems, it seemed prudent to rule out sensors prior to replacing module. My car's computer was running blind so like any good doctor, I went to rule out the eyes before going for the brain transplant.

BINGO! For the price of Crank and Cam sensors and 2 hrs labor, which saved me bruised knuckles and my time and frustration, we're running again. As long as my pulley and crank sensor pickups are ok, seems worth it.

Thanks to the members on this board! Although some of the useful posts were related to other problems you've been a big help- I wish you best of luck and soon!

N.-
 
I too had a "shutdown" and no-start on a 5.0 HO.
After reading your thread, I found an AIRTEX brand with
part number E2098S. It fits the 3.8 supercharged and
5.0 HO engines. I have emailed AirTex for the specs
on the pump.
 
Running a stock HO? Don't remember those, hope they're a bit less trouble. Did any come stock w/the suspension and other SC type upgrades? Not sure if even the '97 SE had them, although I remember checking out a 40th Anniv. Ed. which seemed factory upgraded but passed on it because the engine just didn't pull like the SC. Actually, I'd prefer a V-8 to work a bit but can't seem to find nice ones if any and they don't have the SC cache. I'm interested in learning what you find on the pump specs.

Recently did an engine swap on a 3.8 Cougar and had a no start which presented fuel issue symptoms. Turned out that pump and relays were fine but had some bad grounds. Do a pressure check and continuity on fuel system. Next, how's your fuel regulator? Any vaccuum leaks? You may want to check on that first prior to pulling your exhaust, tank and pump.

The electrical systems on the MN12 seem problematic no matter what you're running. A shot crank sensor on an SC w/less than 50K is not uncommon and actually caused fuel delivery type symptoms. If your car has a mechanical as opposed to electronic ignition system then the fuel system may indeed be a more likely culprit. There's lots of good info on these boards from members w/similar symptoms, just do a search.

Good luck,
N.-
 
I received a reply from AirTex about their E3098S fuel pump and hanger assembly. The E2044 fuel pump has a wide open flow rate of 170 LPH and a dead head spec of 90-100 PSI. AirTex makes the Masters brand pump also. These specs should make the big ole 5.0 HO V8 run good. I have gotten the pump installed and the tank back up under the car. Now to add a new fuel filter and fuel. I'll post pressure results when I get it going.
All of the electrics have been checked, and everything is good.
I had 251,000 miles on the pump, so basically it just wore out.

As for the Sport model, it's basically a Super Coupe with a V8 instead of the V6 supercharged engine. I have 4 wheel anti-lock ABS, all the SuperCoupe suspension goodies, but none of the aerodynamic body goodies. If I'm not mistaken, there were even less of the Sport models made than there were Super Coupes.
 
A quarter million miles isn't bad at all- sounds like a special bird. I wouldn't imagine it would take much to get more torque out of the H.O. motor. I keep an eye on the ads but haven't seen any. Did the Sport come w/ ARC and the upgraded interior, seats and guages?
 
The SC engine will start with a failed cam sensor but will be hard to start. Engine computer will have to guess when #1 is on the compression stroke. But after a few tries it will guess right.

An SC engine that doesn't start no spark, and has fuel pressure start with the crank sensor. Being careful to inspect the harmonic balancer and it's crankshaft retaining bolt. Stock Harmonic balancers fail over time walking off the end of the crankshaft, breaking the bolt and/or cracking the balancer in half.

If you had a crank sensor failure, I'd make sure you take a good hard look at the harmonic balancer. When the balancer gets near the point of no return and starts to walk it whacks the crank sensor causing it to fail.

It's soo much a better situation to catch this problem before the crank bolt breaks off in the end of the crankshaft. Extracting it can be a pain in the arse.

I know you already have it running, but I'd check, just to be sure.
 
Yes, thanks, you're right, in fact, by my research this seemed to be the likely cause. Checked all that out, it looked ok. I've only got 47k miles so we attributed the crank sensor failure to good old Ford dependability (planned obsolescence) as well as age.

N.-
 
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