Just Got $250 to spend but dont know what to buy

layinthesmack31

Registered User
Well i just got 25o dollars to spend and i am not sure what to buy. What would be my next best mod that i could do for 250? i was thinking a 70 mm throttle body but i am really not sure. MY list of mods already is below so please any infor would be greatly appreciated. I just want something that will make my car a little bit more fun. thanks
MAtt
 
a set of ...

A set of Snow tires for that Michigan winter that is coming..... Or maybe a few tanks of good gas to get you someplace warm for the next six months..... Both of these are good ideas, but not what you want to hear...
So maybe a good tuner and a file to bring that bad boy up to speed.... Now this one is for real... it is something to think about, the other two are good but not always able to do....Either way ,good luck.....Rich
 
hey rich

well i dont need to worry about the frist 2 cause the car is stored and full of premium fuel :) so u think i should get a chip or a tuner? i dont have a lap top and dont have any idea on how to use a tuner so can u tell me what would work best for me. thanks again.
MAtt
 
Your mods are close to mine

I have a apten chip. Love it. TB might not be bad. It is that last intake restriction you have. I think underdrives might be my next purchase since some guys swear by them. Here is what is on my next list some won't apply but maybe it will give you some ideas. Probably in this order as well.

j-mod
3.73
underdrives
aluminum JS pulley
fuel pump
injectors
MP inlet
MP SC
N2O?

You could also think about a DIC.

Julian
 
Save a little more up and get a Lentech Street terminator VB w/electric OD delete, then sell your existing valve body with the B&M shift kit. It will be one of your favorite mods. I had a trans-go kit and there is no comparison.

It changes the shift pattern 1=1st D=2nd OD=3rd Electric switch locks out 4th when racing. with switch off OD=3rd and 4th. It can be up or down shifted manually or it will shift automatically.

In automatic mode shifts are firm, but when shifted manually they are very quick and will chirp the tires with very little throttle.

David
 
David,
How much more would i be looking to spend? and how hard would it be to install. i didnt do the shift kit in mine i had a shop do it. and would the electronic delete work on the AOD? oh and also will i need to buy anything else with it like a better tranny cooler or anything? please reply soon :) thanks
MAtt
 
Matt,

The valve is designed for use on an AOD transmission and is avalible in three different calibrations (I'm using #2). Here is a link to the valvebody page from Lentech's website, click on the AOD Street Terminator. It list for $399 and worth every penny.

http://www.lentechautomatics.com/valve.htm

To install, you pull the transmission pan, unbolt the existing filter and valve body. Bolt the Lentech valvebody on and drill one small hole in the upper portion of the transmission case, as described in the supplied instructions (can be drilled from the bottom). Run one wire thru the hole and attach it to the solenoid on the valve body.

Put a dab of silicone around the wire going thru hole to prevent contamination from getting in transmission or transmission fluid from splashing out. Attach the wire to a 12 volt power supply with a switch inside the car (mine is on console) and protect the circut with the proper size fuse. Bolt a new filter onto the valvebody and install the pan using a new gasket. Refill with transmission fluid.

You don't need to wire the OD delete function for the valve body to work, but it's very useful at the track or on the dyno. All other functions of the valve body will work with out power to the solenoid. I know that drilling the hole sounds scary, but it's really no big deal.

Since your B&M shift kit is installed into your existing valve body, you can easily sell it for a little more than the price of a new shift kit to someone looking for an easy install. I sold mine with the trans-go kit installed for $125 two years ago.

Unless you switch to a non-locking or higher stall converter your existing cooling should be okay. If you want to make it good enough to run a non locking converter with stock stall, all you need is a 24K GVW B&M stack plate cooler (kit about $50 from Summit) bolted in front of the AC condensor and plumbed in line after the existing transmission cooler. More cooling is always a good idea to extend transmission life.

David
 
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Matt I could install that valve body for you, I've already done one and I'm saving up for one for my car now that its back in action and it shifts out of 2nd to early unless I kick my foot through the firewall, but still its nice to be able to hold the gears so I don't have to rag on the car as much or I can sand bag w/ less boost and still run the gears out (if I am racing some import JUNK, then I'll sandbag).

I also have the same kit Dave had, and I am not really happy w/ it anymore. Its better than stock, but it leaves a lot to be desired, plus after driving 2 SC's w/ lentechs and then driving mine the car just feels slower and less performance oriented when it comes time to change gears.
 
hey scott

so if i get it what would be a good time for u to help install it? i have the car stored right now and it is up on jackstands. My garage is heated so it wont be cold and i got a air compressor if that would help. Also i have a big selection of craftsman tools but i dont know what is needed to install the VB. Hey remember i talked to u like in early spring about porting and polishing the heads? how much was that again? and maybe we could take them off too so u could take them to that guy u know to have it done. But hey let me know. thanks
MAtt
 
If you order that valve body and get it at your place, I could come up on a Saturday morning and we could have the valve body installed and the heads off by the afternoon. Just make sure you also order up a Fel-Pro head gasket set, a set of head bolts (Fel-Pro), and if you need any new belts, hoses, t-stat, etc.. If the t-stat is new (I think you changed it right?) then we can leave the water neck attached to the intake manifold. If you have air tools the dis-assembly would be a lot cheaper.

Also I'd get a new set of O2 sensors if yours are old. How old is your water pump and starter?

I'm finishing up my girlfriends Cavalier in the next couple weeks and then I'll be ready to tackle another project. I could bring the heads back to you in a week or so once they are done. I gotta take them down to Merrilville, Indiana for the machine work and I do the port and polish myself.
 
hey scott

yeah i did the t-stat so we could leave that attached. and also can u get me a price on what i would be looking at cause i gotta drop 400 for the valve body and then i just need to know how much more i would be looking at so that i can plan it out. Where should i buy the head gaskets and head bolts from? let me know cause i am about ready to order the Valve body. i might be able to do it tonight but i will just need to know for sure what the price for the heads would be. Oh and i am also planning on buying a propane torpedo heater too cause the kerosene heater i have now is good but i dont like to work with a coat on so if u aren't worried about that then let me know cause i can just go buy like 10 gallons of kerosene for the heater i got and we would be set. Plus that 100 bucks less then i would have to spend for the portable heater haha. let me know. thanks
Matt
 
$160.00 for the head work and labor.

The valve body should only take us about 45 minutes to an hour to install.

The head gasket set and head bolts can be purchased at Auto Zone. The head gasket set is $114.99 and the two sets of head bolts are $17.99 each.

I can get the head gasket set and bolts cheaper. Email me at scott-long@yahoo.com
 
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