Rad Issues

JimGravelle

Registered User
Hey Everyone!

Long time no see! Happy New Year!

The bird seems to have developed a rad fluid leak! I haven't been able to determine where it's coming from, but it's probably either the lower rad hose or the rad itself. Knowing my luck, it's probably the rad!

So I emailed our trusty Ford Parts guy, and good ol' Ford wants over 400 bucks for one of their plastic tank rads. Nuts!

So what are the odds of getting an early model rad with the brass tanks for a re-core? Are these rads easily mounted in the later model SC's (as mine is a 94)?

Also, can someone recommend a good rad shop that'll do the recore quickly and properly the first time? :D

Thanks,

Jim.
 
ESP

Jim
I was going to post the exact same problem this morning - seams mine leaks when it is cold, and obviously is aggrevated when really cold.
I first noticed this in November - it would puddle on start up, then not leak once warm.
I have an early style brass tank rad that I am intending to recore if it is easy to swap. I am going to look around the boards to determine this.
Thanks for posting my Question!!
Pete Roy
PS, I tightened my lower clamp in November - quite a bit, but it is still leaking and I highly suspect it is the plastic tanks where they join to the core
 
Plastic tank rads seeping in extreme cold weather such as we're getting now, is a common problem on many Ford vehicles. This may be what you're seeing Jim, as Pete suggested.


cheers
Ed N.
 
Here is one on e-bay it a new ford rad Link

If I was to do it agan I would pass on get an old rad recored and go with one of these rad since in the end it cost me all most $300 that was my cost as well the tanks on our rads suck because all the joints leak as well some get pin holes over time.
 
Depends on how much fluid you're losing ... if it's a lot, you'll have to replace it. If it's only a small amount, it will probably be OK once the weather returns to a more seasonal number.



cheers
Ed N.
 
Right now it's only a little. At least last night it was. It was way too chilly this morning to check it. :(

Thanks for the tip! I'll keep a close eye on it!
 
howmuch

if I let the car warm up for 10min, there will be a noticeable puddle, likely 4-5 oz.
As long as it stays cold, I will just keep checking the overflow tank and keep the level good.
 
I would sugest that you grab this early core Jim and I'll let you know where to get it cored when the time be there Jim!! $250.00 gets you a triple core there Jim!!:D Mavis road just across the street from the ford dealer at Mississauga Rad.
 
greg

I have a core rad to be rebuilt for myself, do you/anybody know if there are any complications with installing in a 94/95 or is it straight forward?
 
The lower mounting brackets are a bit different Pete, and you will have to extend the overflow hose, since the connection at the filler neck is on the other side (for the different position of the coolant reservoir on pre-94).



cheers
Ed N.
 
Greg,

Is that the place that did your rad? Have you had any problems with it?

The reason I ask is because some people (Jason and Ryan) for example have had issues with their rads after the modification in the form of leaks. Something I want to avoid.

Ed,

Do you know what modifications are required to get the early style rad to fit in our late model SCs?

Thanks,

Jim.
 
Jim,
I have never had any problems with my rad thats only Ryan that has had proplems. when my rad was recored there was one small pin hole that was fixed up. As well the guy re did the upper inlet because it had leaked a long time ago and was fixed hafe ***. The reason the upper inlet is such a problem is becaue it's two parts so it should be redone when the rad is recored.
 
give mega city reckers a call
steels and ninth line we just pulled a rad out of there today in real good shape
not plastic either .
he has two more birds there
$50.00
 
Jason/Greg (and any others with locally done re-cores)...

How are the cores fixed to the end plates? Are they welded or epoxied? (If they're epoxied and then develop leaks, repairs are almost always impossible).

The radiator replacement options are severely limited due to the oddball size. If you're just going for a stock replacement, then RadiatorExpress has the best prices I've ever seen (and they are brass not plastic end tanks).

For awhile the only upgrade was a Griffin (sp?) at $550US, but their cores are epoxied.

Now another SC enthusiast (Mike 38SC) is building Radiators for us (bolt-on too). The cores are furnace-welded NOT epoxied. These are the ultimate Radiators for our SC's now... they have the greatest cooling capacity and are better-built than the Griffin. (Jason provided a link for Mike's Radiators in his post).

As far as choosing one, it all depends on what your goals are. If you're going to stay near stock HP levels, then the OEM replacement will work fine. If you're going to be building up your engine and run the car hard then Mike's radiators are the best solution for you in the long run.

----------------------

Jim, now that the temps are a little more "seasonal", how is the leak now?

PS. Jim, I'm having a heck of a time getting my hands on a cable amp, so I'm going to give you my spare for now. I'll bring it with me the next time we have a favourable west-end meet.
 
My rad cost me $250.00 cash,no tax and it has brass tanks and it is soldered together.If say there was a problem you would have no problem with this guy,I myself would guarentee it! oh and it is triple cored with an upgraded core!
 
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