Car won't start!

sc0tty8

Registered User
Well, my car won't start.

About 1 month ago, after I got my sc home, My gf was driving it, and she brought the car home, she said the car would not start.

I came home from work, car would not start, I ran codes, I came up with a code 34 and a code 67, I belive code 34 was something with egr, code 67 was clutch switch.

Car turned over but would not start.

I ran the codes, and, some how, the car started, with out me doing anything to it :confused:

Well, today, I went to a friends house, we where getting ready to come home, but, the car would not start, at all! I ran codes again, came up with the same thing as last time, but, no go this time.

The car is at my friends house now.

The car turns over, fuel pump pressurizes, I know it is not fuel related, as the car pulls very strong and does nto have a lack of power problem.

Last night, I did motor mounts, I tore all the accesories off of the front of the car, I took off the DIS and did plugs and wires.

This morning, I started it up, it fired right up, and, never ran better.

But, now it does not start. It turns over no prob.

The only things I can think that it could be are the DIS or the cam sensor.

The car is at my friends house 15 miles away, so, I can not go out and check anything.

The car is an 89, 5 speed. 102xxx miles on it.

I am at ends on what it could be.

I am really open to what this problem is, as I would like to fix it asap and be able to drive it home.

The chiltons I have is pretty worthless since it covers tbirds from like 83-97 I belive.

What are the chances it is the cam sensor, or, the DIS?

Like I said, the car turns over fine, but, no start.
 
hi scotty

when you turn the ignition key can you hear the fuel pump running? or you hear just clicking the relay?
 
rob h said:
hi scotty

when you turn the ignition key can you hear the fuel pump running? or you hear just clicking the relay?


I hear the fuel pump pressureize, I hear the relays click.

I just ordered a balancer, and, I am deciding if I should do the crank and cam sensor while I am in there.
 
Did you run codes again?

It may reveal the actual problem this time where the car is hard down and will not intermitantly start anymore...

If you can clear codes and get a start out of the car again I would opt for changing the Crank Sensor. Another thing that flags the Crank Sensor is the Upshift light staying on during crank...

Chnaging the balancer for the heck of it is cool if you got the cash to do so, but it may or may not fix the problem..
And that comes to a 300+ dollar troublshooting price tag unless you know for sure the balancer is bad...

Good luck


Brad
 
Well, the car is not here, so I can not just go out side and look. It was my only set of wheels, so, I am pretty much SOL.

The place I ordered the balancer from sent me an email stating they are all out.

So, I will try the crank sensor.
 
You've pretty much described exactly what happens when the crank sensor fails.

(Funny how they like to start up again after sitting a 1/2 hour. I'm surprised it hasn't quit on you yet while driving down the road.) :)

Check for that bolt on the harmonic balancer and also check that it's not wobbling.
 
TBirdDriver said:
You've pretty much described exactly what happens when the crank sensor fails.

(Funny how they like to start up again after sitting a 1/2 hour. I'm surprised it hasn't quit on you yet while driving down the road.) :)

Check for that bolt on the harmonic balancer and also check that it's not wobbling.


I will check the bolt. I have to wait til my new tools get here now, no one in town had a small enough wrench, so, I had to roder a set from sears.com.

If the bolt is broked, do I take it out and replace it or?
 
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