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Thread: M90 supercharger rebuild question

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    7

    M90 supercharger rebuild question

    I have a M90 off a 93 T-Bird, and need to find out how to press out the bearing and drive so I can put on the new bearings in the snout.

    Thank you.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM
    Posts
    1,609
    SUPERCHARGER SNOUT REBUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    SUPERCHARGER SNOUT REBUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

    The snout can be easily rebuilt in a few hours. You will need a better than average mechanical ability. The only special tool needed is a hydraulic press to remove the inboard bearing and drive.
    As you look down on the blower you will see 3 main assemblies:
    The snout.
    A plate (about 1” thick)
    The blower housing.

    SNOUT NOMENCLATURE:
    The snout consists of (from the pulley end working towards the blower housing).
    Drive shaft
    Pulley nut
    Pulley
    Pulley key way
    Seal retainer
    Seal
    Front bearing
    Rear bearing
    Aluminum drive with drive pins
    Plastic interface assembly.

    PARTS LIST:
    The parts can be found at an Industrial Bearing/Seal company.

    The seal is manufactured by Chicago Rawhide.
    # 7968 (preferred) #7965 or #7966 can also be used.

    The bearings are made by NSK. You will need one of each.
    # NC6204C3X28
    # NC6203C3X28

    Loctite sealant
    # 51831 Gasket Eliminator 518

    Grease:
    Husky pt # 00603.

    The plastic interface can be reused if it is not damaged. It consists of a plastic disk, a nylon bumper, and a metal spring. I recommend that it be replaced with a one piece plastic interface. I can make you one for $10.00 plus shipping. The new interface will let the blower spin up a little faster and takes the rattle out of the blower.

    Remove the blower from the car.
    Drain all fluid from the blower.
    Remove the pulley nut
    Remove the pulley. (use a 3 pronged 2” pulley puller)
    Remove the key way.
    Remove the seal retainer.
    Remove the seal.
    Remove the bolts (in a cross pattern) that retain the snout to the blower housing. (The bolts go through the 1” plate and screw into the Blower housing.)
    Remove the snout. (Use a plastic hammer to tap the end of the snout to break loose the snout.)
    Set the blower housing with the plate aside.
    Remove the shaft. (Use a plastic hammer to drive the shaft to the rear of the snout. The front bearing will stay in the snout.)
    Remove the front bearing from the snout housing. (Use a wooden dowel to drive the bearing forward.)
    Use the hydraulic press to remove the rear bearing and the aluminum drive from the shaft. Be careful not to damage the drive. Note that the end of the shaft and the drive are knurled (splined).

    Assembly hints:

    Before you start assembling the snout read through the instructions and figure out how you will do the operations. Some tools may have to be made. I would use wood or plastic pipe. This way the assembly will be done quickly an the parts will not heat up or cool down before they can be assembled

    All parts to be frozen should be sprayed with WD40 and put into a zip lock bag prior to freezing.

    Get the cooled parts set up for assembly first. Then get the heated parts out and assemble.

    Heated parts should be placed in a preheated oven for 15 to 20 minutes before assembly.

    The heated parts will shrink when they come in contact with the cooled parts but will assemble easily. Remember to assemble quickly.

    Get some practice engaging the knurles on the aluminum drive. It is critical that the drive is engaged properly and that the drive goes on square. DO NOT hit the drive’s pins.

    When ever you tap something in to place do not use a steel hammer directly on the part. Use a plastic hammer or a block of wood between the part and the hammer.

    SNOUT ASSEMBLY:

    Clean the snout housing, shaft, and drive.

    Spray the shaft and front bearing with WD40 and put them into a Zip Lock bag. Then put them into a freezer. Leave the parts in the freezer for 3 to 4 hours.

    When the shaft is frozen, heat the rear bearing to 200 degrees.

    When the bearing is heated remove the shaft and assemble the rear bearing insuring that the bearing is fully seated. When the bearing is cool to the touch spray with WD40 and place the shaft with the bearing into the Zip Lock bag and back into the freezer for one hour.

    When the shaft is frozen.. Heat the drive to 300 degrees.

    Assemble the drive on to the shaft.

    Let the drive cool down and then refreeze the shaft assembly.

    Heat the snout housing to 250 degrees.

    Install the frozen front bearing. Make sure the bearing is fully seated.

    Heat the snout with the bearing to 250 degrees.

    Install the shaft into the snout housing, Make sure the front bearing does not move and that the shaft is fully seated.
    Put some Blower oil on the bearings. Turn the shaft through both ways make sure it is smooth and there is no grinding.

    Put some tape on the sharp edge of the shaft to protect the seal.

    Put some Blower oil on the rubber part of the seal and tap the seal in. Make sure it is fully seated.

    Install the seal retainer.

    Install the Key way.

    Install the Pulley.

    Install the nut.

    Now take a minute to inspect the completed assembly and get ready to finish the assembly process.

    BLOWER ROTORS/HOUSING:

    You can do this while you are waiting for the parts to freeze.

    Set the blower on it’s end and remove the 1” plate and rotors. Be careful do not damage the rotors. I like to put a couple fluffy towels down and lay the rotors on them. Look for damage. There are 2 bearings with seals in the inlet side of the case. These bearings are packed with grease. Check the seals they should be supple and flexible. Re pack with the listed grease prior to reassembly.

    Use red Scotch Bright to clean all mating surfaces.

    Wipe the rotors, mating surfaces, and blower housing down with a clean rag dampened with Carb cleaner prior to reassembly.

    Put a thin coating of the sealant ¼ “ wide (starting at the outer edge) and only on one side of the part to be assembled.

    For assembly set the blower housing on its inlet side (with the big hole side up) and drop all parts down.

    Be careful sliding the rotors in. Do it very gently. Once fully seated tap the parts together and look for sealant squeeze out .

    Put the plastic interface on the blower side of the drive.

    Put the snout on the blower housing. Tap it look for sealant squeeze out. Replace the bolts tighten (in a cross pattern) hand tight first then to 65 INCH pounds (use the cross pattern).

    Wipe off the excess sealant.

    Turn the blower through a few times look for binding grinding ETC.

    When you are satisfied that all is well put the Blower in, fire it up, and happy motoring.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Findlay, Ohio
    Posts
    242
    You will defiately need a hydraulic press to get the drive and bearing off. I pressed both off at the same time and it took a lot of pressure. Careful, have some towels around the press, the shaft will "fly".

    The only heating/freezing I did was heating the drive before pressing it on to the splines of the shaft.
    Last edited by 89psychobird; 07-26-2004 at 01:03 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Auburn WA
    Posts
    63

    parts #s

    [QUOTE=Darkside]SUPERCHARGER SNOUT REBUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    do you have part #s for the case bearings and seals?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    7

    Have the parts

    [QUOTE=Tom B]
    Quote Originally Posted by Darkside
    SUPERCHARGER SNOUT REBUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    do you have part #s for the case bearings and seals?

    I have all the parts and have finally got the old bearings off, now I can not get the new ones on. I have gone by the instructions but can not get the new bearings but about 1/2 way on before they stop going on. Is there any suggestions on how better to do this?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM
    Posts
    1,609
    That's as far as they go. If you are holding the snout looking at the backside, measure the distance from the outside of the hole that the shaft goes into, to the outside of the drive. It should be about 5/8.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by Darkside
    That's as far as they go. If you are holding the snout looking at the backside, measure the distance from the outside of the hole that the shaft goes into, to the outside of the drive. It should be about 5/8.
    this is befor I put the shaft back in the snout
    The one I took off was all the way to the flange it hits
    Last edited by miketreid; 07-26-2004 at 08:16 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Tejas...home of Stevie Ray Vaughan
    Posts
    1,748
    Quote Originally Posted by miketreid
    I have all the parts and have finally got the old bearings off, now I can not get the new ones on. I have gone by the instructions but can not get the new bearings but about 1/2 way on before they stop going on. Is there any suggestions on how better to do this?
    Not sure I understand your question. Any way you can post a pic of the problem?

    'bird

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    mexico
    Posts
    3
    heyy
    humm im aS/C newbie and the bird i bought is messed up :/

    today i fixed the leak on my powersteering and i gave it a tune up....next i want to service the supercharger cause who knows when was the last time

    all that freezing and heating is necesary for servicing?






    Quote Originally Posted by Darkside View Post
    SUPERCHARGER SNOUT REBUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    SUPERCHARGER SNOUT REBUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

    The snout can be easily rebuilt in a few hours. You will need a better than average mechanical ability. The only special tool needed is a hydraulic press to remove the inboard bearing and drive.
    As you look down on the blower you will see 3 main assemblies:
    The snout.
    A plate (about 1” thick)
    The blower housing.

    SNOUT NOMENCLATURE:
    The snout consists of (from the pulley end working towards the blower housing).
    Drive shaft
    Pulley nut
    Pulley
    Pulley key way
    Seal retainer
    Seal
    Front bearing
    Rear bearing
    Aluminum drive with drive pins
    Plastic interface assembly.

    PARTS LIST:
    The parts can be found at an Industrial Bearing/Seal company.

    The seal is manufactured by Chicago Rawhide.
    # 7968 (preferred) #7965 or #7966 can also be used.

    The bearings are made by NSK. You will need one of each.
    # NC6204C3X28
    # NC6203C3X28

    Loctite sealant
    # 51831 Gasket Eliminator 518

    Grease:
    Husky pt # 00603.

    The plastic interface can be reused if it is not damaged. It consists of a plastic disk, a nylon bumper, and a metal spring. I recommend that it be replaced with a one piece plastic interface. I can make you one for $10.00 plus shipping. The new interface will let the blower spin up a little faster and takes the rattle out of the blower.

    Remove the blower from the car.
    Drain all fluid from the blower.
    Remove the pulley nut
    Remove the pulley. (use a 3 pronged 2” pulley puller)
    Remove the key way.
    Remove the seal retainer.
    Remove the seal.
    Remove the bolts (in a cross pattern) that retain the snout to the blower housing. (The bolts go through the 1” plate and screw into the Blower housing.)
    Remove the snout. (Use a plastic hammer to tap the end of the snout to break loose the snout.)
    Set the blower housing with the plate aside.
    Remove the shaft. (Use a plastic hammer to drive the shaft to the rear of the snout. The front bearing will stay in the snout.)
    Remove the front bearing from the snout housing. (Use a wooden dowel to drive the bearing forward.)
    Use the hydraulic press to remove the rear bearing and the aluminum drive from the shaft. Be careful not to damage the drive. Note that the end of the shaft and the drive are knurled (splined).

    Assembly hints:

    Before you start assembling the snout read through the instructions and figure out how you will do the operations. Some tools may have to be made. I would use wood or plastic pipe. This way the assembly will be done quickly an the parts will not heat up or cool down before they can be assembled

    All parts to be frozen should be sprayed with WD40 and put into a zip lock bag prior to freezing.

    Get the cooled parts set up for assembly first. Then get the heated parts out and assemble.

    Heated parts should be placed in a preheated oven for 15 to 20 minutes before assembly.

    The heated parts will shrink when they come in contact with the cooled parts but will assemble easily. Remember to assemble quickly.

    Get some practice engaging the knurles on the aluminum drive. It is critical that the drive is engaged properly and that the drive goes on square. DO NOT hit the drive’s pins.

    When ever you tap something in to place do not use a steel hammer directly on the part. Use a plastic hammer or a block of wood between the part and the hammer.

    SNOUT ASSEMBLY:

    Clean the snout housing, shaft, and drive.

    Spray the shaft and front bearing with WD40 and put them into a Zip Lock bag. Then put them into a freezer. Leave the parts in the freezer for 3 to 4 hours.

    When the shaft is frozen, heat the rear bearing to 200 degrees.

    When the bearing is heated remove the shaft and assemble the rear bearing insuring that the bearing is fully seated. When the bearing is cool to the touch spray with WD40 and place the shaft with the bearing into the Zip Lock bag and back into the freezer for one hour.

    When the shaft is frozen.. Heat the drive to 300 degrees.

    Assemble the drive on to the shaft.

    Let the drive cool down and then refreeze the shaft assembly.

    Heat the snout housing to 250 degrees.

    Install the frozen front bearing. Make sure the bearing is fully seated.

    Heat the snout with the bearing to 250 degrees.

    Install the shaft into the snout housing, Make sure the front bearing does not move and that the shaft is fully seated.
    Put some Blower oil on the bearings. Turn the shaft through both ways make sure it is smooth and there is no grinding.

    Put some tape on the sharp edge of the shaft to protect the seal.

    Put some Blower oil on the rubber part of the seal and tap the seal in. Make sure it is fully seated.

    Install the seal retainer.

    Install the Key way.

    Install the Pulley.

    Install the nut.

    Now take a minute to inspect the completed assembly and get ready to finish the assembly process.

    BLOWER ROTORS/HOUSING:

    You can do this while you are waiting for the parts to freeze.

    Set the blower on it’s end and remove the 1” plate and rotors. Be careful do not damage the rotors. I like to put a couple fluffy towels down and lay the rotors on them. Look for damage. There are 2 bearings with seals in the inlet side of the case. These bearings are packed with grease. Check the seals they should be supple and flexible. Re pack with the listed grease prior to reassembly.

    Use red Scotch Bright to clean all mating surfaces.

    Wipe the rotors, mating surfaces, and blower housing down with a clean rag dampened with Carb cleaner prior to reassembly.

    Put a thin coating of the sealant ¼ “ wide (starting at the outer edge) and only on one side of the part to be assembled.

    For assembly set the blower housing on its inlet side (with the big hole side up) and drop all parts down.

    Be careful sliding the rotors in. Do it very gently. Once fully seated tap the parts together and look for sealant squeeze out .

    Put the plastic interface on the blower side of the drive.

    Put the snout on the blower housing. Tap it look for sealant squeeze out. Replace the bolts tighten (in a cross pattern) hand tight first then to 65 INCH pounds (use the cross pattern).

    Wipe off the excess sealant.

    Turn the blower through a few times look for binding grinding ETC.

    When you are satisfied that all is well put the Blower in, fire it up, and happy motoring.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Eastern (nee Western) PA
    Posts
    4,988
    Quote Originally Posted by 93superc0upe View Post
    heyy
    humm im aS/C newbie and the bird i bought is messed up :/

    today i fixed the leak on my powersteering and i gave it a tune up....next i want to service the supercharger cause who knows when was the last time

    all that freezing and heating is necesary for servicing?
    Check the oil first, man. No freezing necessary.
    God bless!!!

    1990 SC auto ... red outside, gray cloth inside ... ~205,000 miles (and climbing) ... driven daily!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    mexico
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by S_Mazza View Post
    Check the oil first, man. No freezing necessary.
    ok =)
    humm how do i do that dough lol

    my fuel pump died today :/
    ill fix that tomorrow

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem, OR
    Posts
    6,119
    >how do i do that

    See this link:

    Super Coupe Supercharger Oil Check/Change How-To

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