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Thread: Question - Front suspension

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2002

    Question - Front suspension

    I'm removing the rack and pinion, can anyone give me advice on how to get the tie rod ends off? Am I going to have to replace anything? Or can I just put them right back on? also how do you take them off?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Lincoln, NE
    Your new rack should come with the inner tie rod ends already on it...I'd highly recommend getting new outer tie rod ends as well. They are not that expensive, and they do go bad after time. I've got all new suspension components including the steering components to get put on mine...Hopefully in a couple weeks I'll be able to get that done...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Columbus, Ohio
    I still want to know if there is another rack and pinion out there that can be bolted in place of the stock unit. Any body have any ideas?


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Valley Lee, MD

    Rack & Pinion Lessons Learned!

    I had a friend who works at the local Midas Shop replace my R&P in my 90 XR7. Actually we did it together. I was lending moral support when he was trying to get the power steering lines off the old one and back on the new one. It almost drove us both to drinking! It took about an hour to remove the old one and install the new one. 15 minutes to R&I the units and 45 minutes to R&I the power steering lines. Good Luck!

    I agree with 007. Replace the outer tie rod ends at the same time since you will need to get the front end aligned. Will save you grief and $$$$$ later on.

    NAPA sells SC R&P re-man units.

    Ed Springer

    90 Black XR7 5-speed: 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, '94 Supercharger, 5% SC Pulley, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, Underdrive Pulleys, 190 l/h Fuel Pump, 36# Injectors, Headers, Magnaflow Muffler (no cats) with stock resoantors, 3:27 Gears, Ripper Shifter, 73 CL MAF, Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs and Rear Spring Air Bags.

    94 Red SC Auto: 70mm TB, Fresh Air Intake, Stock 90 SC Pulley, Raised SC Top, I/C Fan, Underdrive Pulleys, 190 l/h Fuel Pump, 38# Injectors, Headers, Raven Muffler (no cats) with stock resoantors, 3:73 Gears, 73 CL MAF, Magnacore Wires, NGK Iridium Plugs, TRANSGO Shift Kit, ProTorque 2500 Stall TC, Haydon Auxiliary Transmission Cooler, Tokico Struts & Shocks, American Racing 17 Sniper Wheels, Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Tires and 235 RWHP with 315 Lbs.Ft. Torque

  5. #5
    Joisey Jim Guest
    As far as the original question is concerned; to remove the outer tie-rods (the ones with the ball joint that bolts to the wheel spindle). If they are not very old & you want to re-use them, then mark a fixed distance, say 3" from the back face of the jamb nut and scratch a mark on the tie-rod. Then loosen the jamb nut. On the ball joint end, remove the cotter pin and release the nut. If you have a separator tool all the better (especially if you decide to reinstall the old ends), if not you can release the nut to the end of the thread and then hammer it out from underneath. A separator tool is recommended, however, because these babies are very tight. After releasing the ball joint you can simply unscrew the old tie-rod end off the tie rod itself. The inner rod joint removal is a little more tricky and requires a special cylindrical/tubular tool (specific for Fords) that slides over the entire rod to get to the inner joint. However, if you're replacing the whole rack then these are normally included.
    Hope that helps.

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