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Thread: Blower rebuild instructions

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  1. #1
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    Blower rebuild instructions

    I have a complete rebuild kit for my Eaton M90. I did not receive detailed instructions for installing all the seals & bearings. I have replace some of the seals and bearings in a M90 before but not a complete replace everything including the rotors. I am sure I will get it done but instructions always help get me by any sticking parts in the rebuild. Any help would be appriciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Do you need the ones I used? Or more specific? I can dig those up... Are you talking the front rotor bearings too?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007_SuperCoupe
    Do you need the ones I used? Or more specific? I can dig those up... Are you talking the front rotor bearings too?
    I read in other threads that the only one that has the seals for the rotor pack is Magnum Powers. I still have to check the kit I have and see if they were included. I got the kit from Wynn. I have the rotors and the front end plate as a unit. I am concerned that the seal might not be OK as it is not a brand new rotor pack. I could use a copy of your instructions. Is there any way you could fax them to me? If so the number is 402 341-3202. Thanks for your reply Sam, I appriciate your help

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenewagner
    I have a complete rebuild kit for my Eaton M90. I did not receive detailed instructions for installing all the seals & bearings. I have replace some of the seals and bearings in a M90 before but not a complete replace everything including the rotors. I am sure I will get it done but instructions always help get me by any sticking parts in the rebuild. Any help would be appriciated. Thanks.
    ouch, that hurt!

    The way I type it would take 2 weeks to do up a set of instructions and it would take you 3 days to read 'em. By the way, the seals in the blue/black boxes are the rotor seals.

    I have a super-simple "trick" for gettin' the gears off the rotors, so easy my cat can do it but it's impossible to explain in type. Gonna be outa pocket until Monday mornin' but maybe someone here can help.

    "I read in other threads that the only one that has the seals for the rotor pack is Magnum Powers."
    Magnum Powers sells a rebuild kit? Since when?

    'bird
    Last edited by tbird88; 10-16-2004 at 06:50 AM. Reason: oops, I did it again...

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbird88
    ouch, that hurt!

    The way I type it would take 2 weeks to do up a set of instructions and it would take you 3 days to read 'em. By the way, the seals in the blue/black boxes are the rotor seals.

    I have a super-simple "trick" for gettin' the gears off the rotors, so easy my cat can do it but it's impossible to explain in type. Gonna be outa pocket until Monday mornin' but maybe someone here can help.

    "I read in other threads that the only one that has the seals for the rotor pack is Magnum Powers."
    Magnum Powers sells a rebuild kit? Since when?

    'bird
    Wynn: Sorry, didnt intend to inply I was shorted in any way. Everything I have bought from you has been great and you have a totally satisfied customer here. I started looking at threads concerning the rotor pack and it seemed to be complicated. The threads said Magnum Powers were the only ones that had the rotor pack seals and that they did not sell them seperately, only through a rebuild of the supercharger its self. I bought these teflon coated rotors and want to get the install right the first time I wont be rebuilding the SC untill next week so I am not under the gun

  6. #6
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    i am in the same process you are. how to get the shaft out of the front and to remove the rotors. Where did you get the teflon coated rotors at, or did you have it done? what did the inside of your case look like mine is pretty rough. next month i am plannin on gettin a rebuild kit from wynn,
    SCCoA Member#: 2515
    1990 SC AOD 2.1L Kenne Bell
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rzimmerl
    i am in the same process you are. how to get the shaft out of the front and to remove the rotors. Where did you get the teflon coated rotors at, or did you have it done? what did the inside of your case look like mine is pretty rough. next month i am plannin on gettin a rebuild kit from wynn,
    I got the teflon coated rotors from a GP web site. They are still in the front plate so I have not removed them. I hope to call and get ahold of wynn Monday to get his way of removing so I can have the rebuild be a through job. My case had a few scratches in it. If you get a rebuild kit from Wynn you wont be disappointe he's a standup guy

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenewagner
    I got the teflon coated rotors from a GP web site. They are still in the front plate so I have not removed them. I hope to call and get ahold of wynn Monday to get his way of removing so I can have the rebuild be a through job. My case had a few scratches in it. If you get a rebuild kit from Wynn you wont be disappointe he's a standup guy
    Due to obligations...girlfriend is sellin' jewelry at the fleamarket this weekend and yours truly HAS to sit there with her and endure all this girly-stuff...please don't tell anyone, especially j57ltr!

    Let's see if I can keep it simple. If you don't understand this completely then please don't try it. Like I said, I'm terrible at typin' so I don't really explain myself well at all. Probably confuse the heck out've you on the phone too, ask any Canadian.

    Make a mark on the rear of the rotor pins where they stick out of the back of the rotors. A fine point sharpie works great for this.
    Take a steel plate (3/4" thick will do) that measures 6"x8" and drill two 3/4" dia. holes in it that line up with the rear pins on the rotors.
    Stand the rotor pack on end, gears facing up, rotors sittin' on the plate with the rear pins facing down in the holes.
    As a buffer between the ram and the rotor pin you want to press, set a small chunk of 1/2" round bar stock on top of one of the rotor pins. Make sure this little chunk is cut nice and straight/square/etc. It's a sacrificial item but needs to be true.
    Come down with the ram on the chunk/rotor pin and press it until you get the initial break/snap/crackle/pop/creak. Technically, what you are tryin' to do in this stage is to press the rotor pin down through the rotor. Press it down ONLY enuff to get the initial "pop", 1/32" is plenty.
    Do the same procedure again with the other rotor/pin.
    You now have the initial break done between the rotor pin and the gear.
    You've also loosened the hold that the inner race of the front rotor bearing had on the pin.

    Now...Take the plate with holes out from under the rotor pack.
    Set the edges of the rotor bearing plate on some blocks and let the rotors hang free.
    Lift the rotor pack up a tad and place various types/shapes of steel chunks/blocks up under the the rotor plate.
    Using your best judgement, locate these pieces into the nooks and crannies of the rotor lobes to where they'll provide a decent surface for the bearing plate to rest on.
    Grab your little piece of 1/2" barstock and put it back between the ram and pin.
    Have a bud ready to catch the rotor and start pressing.
    If you have the bearing plate supported halfway decent at all then you shouldn't have a thing to worry about at this stage. Should only take a few hundred pounds of pressure and the rotor will start droppin'.

    note to your helper: CATCH THE ROTOR!

    Repeat for the other rotor.

    Move everything off the press and take that rotor and set it up in the press with the gear end facing down in one of the holes in the 3/4" steel plate.
    Usin' your little chunk, press the pin back through the rotor that tiny 1/32" that you moved it in the first stage.
    Watch the mark you made with the sharpie so you know when to stop. This will restore the pin in its original location within the rotor.

    Do this NOW, do NOT wait until later.

    Repeat for the other rotor.


    Fingers are sore from typin', I'll do my best to press some rotors Monday and take pics of the process. It ain't magic, just common sense and a little bit've logic.

    'bird

    kenewagner - my mistake, many thanks for the compliment

  9. #9
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    I have tackled a lot of diffcult projects since I bought my SC, from M112s & whipple blowers to most everything mechanical on the car. The one thing I wouldnt do again is tear the rotor pack apart and reassemble it with the rotors timed. I played with it several times to get it where I thought it should be. The tolorances are very close and if its not perfect it does what the pictures show. I beleive there are only a couple of members here who have tried it if that and even if they lucked out and got it right doesnt mean the next guy will be lucky. Even a few thousands off will tear the coating off at minimum. And as dave said pressing the shafts out will destroy the roll over that holds the bearing in place. Another problem that needs to be addressed. Spend the money to do it right or buy something diffrent. Also my case is trashed and if you look closely to the pictures you will see scoring and flat spots on the rotors. Only good thing about it was it allowed me to move up to a bigger blower

    Ken
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  10. #10
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    Ouch!

    Quote Originally Posted by kenewagner View Post
    I have tackled a lot of diffcult projects since I bought my SC, from M112s & whipple blowers to most everything mechanical on the car. The one thing I wouldnt do again is tear the rotor pack apart and reassemble it with the rotors timed. I played with it several times to get it where I thought it should be. The tolorances are very close and if its not perfect it does what the pictures show. I beleive there are only a couple of members here who have tried it if that and even if they lucked out and got it right doesnt mean the next guy will be lucky. Even a few thousands off will tear the coating off at minimum. And as dave said pressing the shafts out will destroy the roll over that holds the bearing in place. Another problem that needs to be addressed. Spend the money to do it right or buy something diffrent. Also my case is trashed and if you look closely to the pictures you will see scoring and flat spots on the rotors. Only good thing about it was it allowed me to move up to a bigger blower

    Ken
    I've worked really hard on stuff like that before, only to watch it desintigrate in front of my eyes when I fire it up
    What will really get you is the hours of hard work that went in to destroying that blower
    After reading your thread a while back about this, I'm convinced that magnuseon refuses to sell the rotor bearings for a good reason.

    Daspanka

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daspanka View Post
    I've worked really hard on stuff like that before, only to watch it desintigrate in front of my eyes when I fire it up
    What will really get you is the hours of hard work that went in to destroying that blower
    After reading your thread a while back about this, I'm convinced that magnuseon refuses to sell the rotor bearings for a good reason.

    Daspanka
    You hit it on the nose. I modified the blower case, installed the coated rotors, built a custom TB intake plenum, a beautiful 1.5 raised top. A lot of work down the toilet because I felt I could tackle anything. Somethings are best left to a manufacturer. Unfortuniately I probably tackle more projects that I should shake me head at. My win lost record on project is heavy in the win side so I am not crying. It would have been nice if I could have sold all the M90 stuff to help finiance the M112.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenewagner View Post
    You hit it on the nose. I modified the blower case, installed the coated rotors, built a custom TB intake plenum, a beautiful 1.5 raised top. A lot of work down the toilet because I felt I could tackle anything. Somethings are best left to a manufacturer. Unfortuniately I probably tackle more projects that I should shake me head at. My win lost record on project is heavy in the win side so I am not crying. It would have been nice if I could have sold all the M90 stuff to help finiance the M112.
    Nice plenum! Did you build the top too?
    Hmmm, That looks exactly like the metallic basecoat I used with my Duplicolor red.

    Daspanka

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daspanka View Post
    Nice plenum! Did you build the top too?
    Hmmm, That looks exactly like the metallic basecoat I used with my Duplicolor red.

    Daspanka
    Built the plenum and the top was cut and added 1.5". It fit perfectly under my cervinis hood. The color is a metal flake silver imron. I almost wish I had done my present blower in it but I thought gloss was bad ~~~ looking

    Ken

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