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Thread: Blower rebuild instructions

  1. #16
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    Or send it to the High speed lab, Wade is the only one I know that has a Jigg to get the job done. Not even MP gets involved in this repair. Eaton might have one too but who want to deal with the manufacturer/.

  2. #17
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    Another option is to send your blower to Magnusen to have brand new rotors installed. They'll have a nice shiney new coating on them and everything.


    Of course then there is the tax thingy and all that. Another problem you run into when replacing the bearings is that when they come out they break away a swedged part of the bearing plate so when you install the new bearings you have to devise a retaining method for them.
    Last edited by XR7 Dave; 10-25-2007 at 10:02 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Miller View Post
    Ya thats why i tape mine down. People think its bc i dont have a moonroof seal (which is true) but its really to keep my roof from ripping off .
    Email me here.

  3. #18
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    I thought the marker was for timing the rotors. Make a mark on the rear of the rotors and line them up. Only do it on one rotor with one style mark. I.E. Use lines on one rotor. Then, go to the next rotor and use "A" with a line. This is how I line timing chains up for the 4.6s and it works wonders.

    Chris

  4. #19
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    Third option

    The third, and most cost effective option, would be just to nab a complete used blower from the for sale forums here or ebay. If you car is an pre-94, you should be able to score a nice 94/95 blower for $350 or less, or an early blower for $250 or less. If you get a 94/95 make sure that you also get a 94/95 intake plenum too, and you'll add some HP at the same time. You'll pay $400+ for a GM rotor pack, and probably much more than that to have your pack professionally rebuilt. You'll be taking your chances with a used blower, just like buying a part from a scrapyard. But chances are that a used blower that looks OK will only need the snout rebuilt at worst, which is relatively inexpensive. The rotor pack and rear bearings should be good for 200k + miles if it hasn't been abused (like mine )
    My $.02

    Daspanka

  5. #20
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    I have tackled a lot of diffcult projects since I bought my SC, from M112s & whipple blowers to most everything mechanical on the car. The one thing I wouldnt do again is tear the rotor pack apart and reassemble it with the rotors timed. I played with it several times to get it where I thought it should be. The tolorances are very close and if its not perfect it does what the pictures show. I beleive there are only a couple of members here who have tried it if that and even if they lucked out and got it right doesnt mean the next guy will be lucky. Even a few thousands off will tear the coating off at minimum. And as dave said pressing the shafts out will destroy the roll over that holds the bearing in place. Another problem that needs to be addressed. Spend the money to do it right or buy something diffrent. Also my case is trashed and if you look closely to the pictures you will see scoring and flat spots on the rotors. Only good thing about it was it allowed me to move up to a bigger blower

    Ken
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  6. #21
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    Ouch!

    Quote Originally Posted by kenewagner View Post
    I have tackled a lot of diffcult projects since I bought my SC, from M112s & whipple blowers to most everything mechanical on the car. The one thing I wouldnt do again is tear the rotor pack apart and reassemble it with the rotors timed. I played with it several times to get it where I thought it should be. The tolorances are very close and if its not perfect it does what the pictures show. I beleive there are only a couple of members here who have tried it if that and even if they lucked out and got it right doesnt mean the next guy will be lucky. Even a few thousands off will tear the coating off at minimum. And as dave said pressing the shafts out will destroy the roll over that holds the bearing in place. Another problem that needs to be addressed. Spend the money to do it right or buy something diffrent. Also my case is trashed and if you look closely to the pictures you will see scoring and flat spots on the rotors. Only good thing about it was it allowed me to move up to a bigger blower

    Ken
    I've worked really hard on stuff like that before, only to watch it desintigrate in front of my eyes when I fire it up
    What will really get you is the hours of hard work that went in to destroying that blower
    After reading your thread a while back about this, I'm convinced that magnuseon refuses to sell the rotor bearings for a good reason.

    Daspanka

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daspanka View Post
    ... You'll pay $400+ for a GM rotor pack, and probably much more than that to have your pack professionally rebuilt.
    You can get lightly used GM rotor packs for much less. Try $200 and under.

    Ken,

    That is scary. One weird thing is, the wear is all over the rotors. It's not one side of the rotors or the other, as I would expect if there was an interference problem. I wonder if they walked in and out of the bearings and got trashed that way?
    God bless!!!

    1990 SC auto ... red outside, gray cloth inside ... ~205,000 miles (and climbing) ... driven daily!

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daspanka View Post
    I've worked really hard on stuff like that before, only to watch it desintigrate in front of my eyes when I fire it up
    What will really get you is the hours of hard work that went in to destroying that blower
    After reading your thread a while back about this, I'm convinced that magnuseon refuses to sell the rotor bearings for a good reason.

    Daspanka
    You hit it on the nose. I modified the blower case, installed the coated rotors, built a custom TB intake plenum, a beautiful 1.5 raised top. A lot of work down the toilet because I felt I could tackle anything. Somethings are best left to a manufacturer. Unfortuniately I probably tackle more projects that I should shake me head at. My win lost record on project is heavy in the win side so I am not crying. It would have been nice if I could have sold all the M90 stuff to help finiance the M112.
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  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenewagner View Post
    You hit it on the nose. I modified the blower case, installed the coated rotors, built a custom TB intake plenum, a beautiful 1.5 raised top. A lot of work down the toilet because I felt I could tackle anything. Somethings are best left to a manufacturer. Unfortuniately I probably tackle more projects that I should shake me head at. My win lost record on project is heavy in the win side so I am not crying. It would have been nice if I could have sold all the M90 stuff to help finiance the M112.
    Nice plenum! Did you build the top too?
    Hmmm, That looks exactly like the metallic basecoat I used with my Duplicolor red.

    Daspanka

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daspanka View Post
    Nice plenum! Did you build the top too?
    Hmmm, That looks exactly like the metallic basecoat I used with my Duplicolor red.

    Daspanka
    Built the plenum and the top was cut and added 1.5". It fit perfectly under my cervinis hood. The color is a metal flake silver imron. I almost wish I had done my present blower in it but I thought gloss was bad ~~~ looking

    Ken

  11. #26
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    So....we have determined that the lateral movement is what caused the damage? I just cant see how the timing could cause this if it correct.

    I mean, if worse came to worse, you could rubber band them together to keep them in time.

    Chris

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by seawalkersee View Post
    So....we have determined that the lateral movement is what caused the damage? I just cant see how the timing could cause this if it correct.

    I mean, if worse came to worse, you could rubber band them together to keep them in time.

    Chris
    I dont beleive lateral movement is the problem. The gears at the front keep the rotors meshed correctly so the clearance remains the same between the rotors when the rotors rotate. The gears have to be pressed off the shafts and than repressed on to maintain the correct clearance. You press the gears back on and are off a few thousands of an inch and the rotors will contact each other. Add in heat and expansion and the problem of contact of the rotors with each other get worse. They will beat the coating clear off at best and destroy the rotors at worse. The shafts that the gears are on are not splined, they are smooth. If they were splined than timing would be easy

    Ken

  13. #28
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    OOOOOHHHHHHHHH....Now it makes sence. I have not done it, but want to stick a set of coated ones in my early case for my Bronco. This makes me believe, I had better have a good set or an old set rebuilt....BY SOMEONE ELSE.

    Chris

  14. #29
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    Well, for our British visitor:

    Try these guys out:

    http://www.bennettracing.co.uk

    They may be able to help you. And no duty charges!
    God bless!!!

    1990 SC auto ... red outside, gray cloth inside ... ~205,000 miles (and climbing) ... driven daily!

  15. #30
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    Question blower rebuild instructions.

    Quote Originally Posted by tbird88 View Post
    Here we go...

    Overall view of the rear rotor pins and the plate they're goin' into.


    Plate set up on the press, ready for the rotor pack.


    Standing the rotor pack on the plate and slippin' the pins into holes.


    Rotor pack in place on the plate, pins are down in their respective holes.


    I changed rotor packs for pics of the dirty work. Ram positioned over the pin to be pressed.


    Piece of 1/2" steel round bar used as a sacrificial chunk, placed on the pin to act as a buffer.


    Press until the initial "POP", only 1/32" or so of travel down through the rotor is needed.


    As mentioned above in my novel, set the rotor plate up with various pieces of stuff in strategic locations and press on the pin again. Rotor will slide down somewhat easily now and fall out the bottom.


    this help?

    'bird
    Please, can you be able to send me a pictures with instructions to rebuild a blower? I am not be able to look up the pictures. Thank you!. Email: anays1974@yahoo.com

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