Lighten an Aluminum Driveshaft

Nettlesd

Registered User
I want to lighten my aluminum driveshaft and I’m wondering what sort of pattern I should use and how many holes I need to drill in it. Maybe, something like, three holes around the circumference spaced 3” apart from each other for the length of the shaft? Or should I do more or less?
 
Nettlesd said:
I want to lighten my aluminum driveshaft and I’m wondering what sort of pattern I should use and how many holes I need to drill in it. Maybe, something like, three holes around the circumference spaced 3” apart from each other for the length of the shaft? Or should I do more or less?
Duane,
I would go for the "swiss cheese" effect on the driveshaft :D
Good luck with your "project"
Ken
 
Nettlesd said:
I want to lighten my aluminum driveshaft and I’m wondering what sort of pattern I should use and how many holes I need to drill in it. Maybe, something like, three holes around the circumference spaced 3” apart from each other for the length of the shaft? Or should I do more or less?

It would be easier if you cut it. One cut right in the middle would get you two aluminum driveshafts, and the best part is each will only weigh half what the original did! You could probably sell one to help pay for the project.
 
Nettlesd,

Make sure you fill it solid on the inside with some lightweight rigid foam like "Greatstuff" before you start putting holes in it. It will probably whistle as it spins through the air if you don't. The foam will also strengthen it.

If you have access to a plasma cutter, you should cut cool designs in it, like stars, lightning bolts, and diamonds. If not then I guess you have to just drill holes.
 
I personally feel that if you drilled the holes in youre head you would not only lighten the overall weight of your SC with driver in it but also eliminate the chances of ever asking such questions again! :O)
 
Just get a carbon fiber one like I did and drill holes in it, it will be sooo much lighter than that aluminum crap. Oh yea, I went with the swiss cheese style and it seemed to work great.
 
Slysc said:
If you have access to a plasma cutter, you should cut cool designs in it, like stars, lightning bolts, and diamonds. If not then I guess you have to just drill holes.


OMG too much :p :p :p
 
keep this on the QT

Nettlesd said:
I want to lighten my aluminum driveshaft and I’m wondering what sort of pattern I should use and how many holes I need to drill in it. Maybe, something like, three holes around the circumference spaced 3” apart from each other for the length of the shaft? Or should I do more or less?
It's supposed to be a secret so don't tell a soul but Manny is almost done with some prototype aluminum u-joints, maybe you could sweetalk him out've a pair?

signed: anonymous
 
Don't do it, Duane!

That procedure has NEVER worked on aluminum driveshafts!

The only guys having reliable success are those with steel driveshafts. They mark a secret pattern of numerous 3/16" to 1/4" holes (anything larger will quickly cause failures) which drills out about 30% of the mass of the driveshaft. These holes, each about the size of a kernel of corn (commonly called cornholes) seem to be very controversial: some swear by them, but others say they stink and want nothing to do with them. To each, his own, I guess.

Hope this helps.
 
Listen, ... Duane. .. To make this project cheap & durable, find the local hardware store, get yourself a "pipe stretcher". Double the length & cut off the ends to make it fit. Now, you're half the weight & still have a solid shaft.!

Anthony
 
Why would you want to reduce weight???? Adding to the reciprocating mass will increase your low end torque. I'm going to install the heaviest driveshaft known to man in my car! I want to have like 1000rwt at 1500rpm so I can make my SC stand on end. Chicks will dig the phallic power of my driveshaft!
 
The best thing to use is rubber. It will store up the excess energy, and release it as the car gains traction.
 
392Bird said:
The best thing to use is rubber. It will store up the excess energy, and release it as the car gains traction.

HA! That proves it. The Russians ARE smarter than the Americans. I used to drive a Russian built LADA (don't ask) back in the "old days". It had RUBBER U-joints. I kid you not.
 
Here's my idea...

I didn't want to let this one out of the bag just yet, but I'm experimenting with replacing the driveshaft altogether. Instead, I'm going to run a bunch of custom-order elastic bands. I'm hoping to have this ready to test at the dragstrip first thing next Spring. I'll actually drive down the return lanes, and have my crew roll the car backwards up the 1/4 mile. I'll get them to stage me, and then I'll put my foot on the brakes. As soon as the tree shows green, I'll let off the brake and floor the accelerator with the transmission in reverse.

I'm thinking we'll either hear a loud SNAP! or the car is going to launch down the track something fierce!

What do you guys think?!

Cheers,

Sean
 
XR7 Dave said:
HA! That proves it. The Russians ARE smarter than the Americans. I used to drive a Russian built LADA (don't ask) back in the "old days". It had RUBBER U-joints. I kid you not.

I thought a LADA was a rebadged FIAT 124 with Russian quality control :eek: .
The rubber U-joints absorbed the engine's enormous torque :D :D :D and prevented catastrophic mechanical failure. Rubber had the added benefit of not snapping like metal in the harsh Russian winters.
 
J.D. said:
I thought a LADA was a rebadged FIAT 124 with Russian quality control :eek: .
The rubber U-joints absorbed the engine's enormous torque :D :D :D and prevented catastrophic mechanical failure. Rubber had the added benefit of not snapping like metal in the harsh Russian winters.

EXACTLY. That's what I'm talking about. Why didn't we ever think of that? :D

Actually the funny thing is that I ripped mine apart. I'd have never known it was rubber if it hadn't torn in two one day. :/
 
John Shelton said:
The only guys having reliable success are those with steel driveshafts. They mark a secret pattern of numerous 3/16" to 1/4" holes (anything larger will quickly cause failures) which drills out about 30% of the mass of the driveshaft.

Thanks John! I knew someone on this board had done it so that's why I was asking. Would it be possible for you to tell me the secret? I want to be sure I do this right if I'm going to do it to my 95 driveshaft. Should I remove the driveshaft from the car or do you think I can do it with the driveshaft still intact in the car. Concerning the secret, you can PM me if you feel more comfortable.

Thanks again.
 
When I did mine I drilled a bunch of access holes in the console area. These access holes also made the car lighter by removing some more unecessary metal, plus I didnt even have to jack up the car.
 
you guys use alluminum?? mine is made of styrofoam .

and the u joints are almost done next is alluminum ring and pinion,
imagine the hp saved as you wont have to turn all that weight, keep an eye out I hear Wynn is working on a crankshaft made of old beer cans welded together, he is good at welding thin peices of alluminum. and Xr7 Daves ,
working on a set of plastice headers, made from sheduale 1100 abs,
pvc pipe.

things are looking up . whats next?

electric turbos made from hair dryers? :D
 
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