Passive Restraint

Pearl Red XR7

Registered User
Ok, First I have read all posts regarding "Passive Restraint". I have checked the switches on both tracks with an ohm meter and all 4 switches are good. I have replaced the Passenger side motor and know that it works. Here is where my question is different than other posts: If I unplug the Passive Restraint Module and plug it back in the belts move forward, I turn the Key to "run" the belts move back. And that is it :mad: . When I turn the key back to "off" the belts stay in the rear position. I do not know what makes them move forward after you are ready to get out.

This I know:

1. Both motors run forward and rearward movement so it is not physical.

2. All 4 Switches work has been tested with a meter.

3. I have tried 2 different Passive Restraint Modules both give the same results.

4. I'm ready for help on this matter, I give up...lol

I guess I could unplug the system, But I’m a stickler for a fully functioning car. That is my last resort.

Thank you for your help with this problem.
 
Pearl Red XR7 said:
Ok, First I have read all posts regarding "Passive Restraint". I have checked the switches on both tracks with an ohm meter and all 4 switches are good. I have replaced the Passenger side motor and know that it works. Here is where my question is different than other posts: If I unplug the Passive Restraint Module and plug it back in the belts move forward, I turn the Key to "run" the belts move back. And that is it :mad: . When I turn the key back to "off" the belts stay in the rear position. I do not know what makes them move forward after you are ready to get out.

This I know:

1. Both motors run forward and rearward movement so it is not physical.

2. All 4 Switches work has been tested with a meter.

3. I have tried 2 different Passive Restraint Modules both give the same results.

4. I'm ready for help on this matter, I give up...lol

I guess I could unplug the system, But I’m a stickler for a fully functioning car. That is my last resort.

Thank you for your help with this problem.

The belt does not move forward until you open the door.

Mike Donley
 
Ok, Just to be sure. I cranked the car and shut the doors. Then I turned the car off and opened the doors. No luck, No movement :( Thanks for trying.
 
Have you checked the door ajar switch (at the door latch, not the one near the door hinges)? The easiest way to check it is by observing the Door Ajar Indicator Lamp in the instrument cluster. If it doesn't come on, it may be burnt out. You can then check the switch by unplugging the Passive Restraint Module and opening and shutting the driver's door while checking for continuity between the dark blue wire at the module's connector and ground. For the passenger's door, check the red wire.
 
Pearl Red XR7 said:
Ok, Just to be sure. I cranked the car and shut the doors. Then I turned the car off and opened the doors. No luck, No movement :( Thanks for trying.

I have a '92 manual on CD. Try these procedures for now and see what happens:

PINPOINT TEST A: Track "A" limit switch diagnosis
A1 CHECK HARNESS AND "A" LIMIT SWITCH CLOSED POSITION
1.Remove access cover over the motor of the side to be checked.
2.Rotate the motor by hand so that the transport is somewhere in between both ends of track but at least 3 inches from either end of track.
3.Remove passive restraint module to gain access to mating connector.
4.Set Digital Volt-Ohmmeter on 200 ohm scale, use Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent.
5.Measure resistance between pins of mating connector for the passive restraint module:
A. Driver side between Pins 5 and 24.
B.Passenger side between Pins 23 and 24.
Is resistance greater than 10 ohms?
No-GO to «A2».
Yes-GO to «A3».
A2 CHECK HARNESS AND "A" LIMIT SWITCH OPEN POSITION
1.Rotate the motor by hand so that the transport is at the A-pillar.
2.Measure resistance between pins of mating connector for the passive restraint module:
A.Driver side between Pins 5 and 24.
B.Passenger side between Pins 23 and 24
3.Is resistance greater than 500k ohms?
No-GO to «A4».
Yes-Switch and wiring OK.
A3 CHECK "A" LIMIT SWITCH CLOSED POSITION
1.Remove the trim over the track and the "A" limit switch.
2.Disconnect the connector from the limit switch.
3.Measure resistance between pins of the limit switch.
4.Is resistance greater than 10 ohms?
No-GO to «A5».
Yes-REPLACE switch. INSTALL original passive restraint module.
A4 CHECK "A" LIMIT SWITCH OPEN POSITION
1.Remove the trim over the track and the "A" limit switch.
2.Make sure carrier fully depresses plunger of limit switch.
3.Disconnect the connector from the limit switch.
4.Measure resistance between pins of the limit switch.
5.Is resistance greater than 500k ohms?
No-REPLACE switch. INSTALL original passive restraint module.
Yes-Go to <<A5>>
A5 CHECK HARNESS FROM MODULE MATING CONNECTOR TO LIMIT SWITCH
1.Measure resistance between pins of the limit switch harness to pins of the Passive Restraint Module mating connector:
A. Driver side--one limit switch pin to Pin 24 (ground), other limit switch
pin to Pin 5.
B.Passenger side--one limit switch pin to Pin 24 (ground), other limit
switch pin to Pin 23.
2.Is continuity present?
Yes-Wiring OK.
No-CORRECT wiring. INSTALL original passive restraint module.

PINPOINT TEST B:Track "B" Limit Switch Diagnosis
B1 CHECK HARNESS AND "B" LIMIT SWITCH CLOSED POSITION
1.Remove access cover over the motor of the side to be checked.
2.Rotate the motor by hand so that the transport is somewhere in between both ends of track but at least 3 inches from either end of track..
3.Remove passive restraint module to gain access to mating connector.
4.Set Digital Volt-Ohmmeter on 200 ohm scale, use Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent.
5.Measure resistance between pins of mating connector for the passive restraint module:
A. Driver side between Pins 18 and 24.
B.Passenger side between Pins 21 and 24.
Is resistance greater than 10 ohms?
No-GO to «B2».
Yes-GO to «B3».
B2 CHECK HARNESS AND "B" LIMIT SWITCH OPEN POSITION
1.Rotate the motor by hand so that the transport is at the B-pillar.
2.Measure resistance between pins of mating connector for the passive restraint module:
A.Driver side between Pins 18 and 24.
B.Passenger side between Pins 21 and 24
3.Is resistance greater than 500k ohms?
No-GO to «B4».
Yes-Switch and wiring OK.
B3 CHECK "B" LIMIT SWITCH CLOSED POSITION
1.Remove the trim over the track and the "B" limit switch.
2.Disconnect the connector from the limit switch.
3.Measure resistance between pins of the limit switch.
4.Is resistance greater than 10 ohms?
No-GO to «B5».
Yes-REPLACE switch. INSTALL original passive restraint module.
B4 CHECK "B" LIMIT SWITCH OPEN POSITION
1.Remove the trim over the track and the "B" limit switch.
2.Make sure carrier fully depresses plunger of limit switch.
3.Disconnect the connector from the limit switch.
4.Measure resistance between pins of the limit switch.
5.Is resistance greater than 500k ohms?
No-REPLACE switch. INSTALL original passive restraint module.
Yes-Go to <<B5>>
B5 CHECK HARNESS FROM MODULE MATING CONNECTOR TO LIMIT SWITCH
1.Measure resistance between pins of the limit switch harness to pins of the Passive Restraint Module mating connector:
A. Driver side--one limit switch pin to Pin 24 (ground), other limit switch
pin to Pin 19.
B.Passenger side--one limit switch pin to Pin 24 (ground), other limit
switch pin to Pin 21.
2.Is continuity present?
Yes-Wiring OK.
No-CORRECT wiring. INSTALL original passive restraint module.

PINPOINT TEST C: DOOR AJAR SWITCH DIAGNOSIS
C1 CHECK HARNESS AND DOOR LATCH SWITCH -- SWITCH OPEN
1.Turn ignition to OFF (position 0).
2.Remove passive restraint module to gain access to mating connector.
3.Set Digital Volt-Ohmmeter on 20K ohm scale, use Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent.
4.Measure resistance between pins of mating connector for passive restraint module:
A. Driver side between Pins 13 and 24.
B. Passenger side between Pins 8 and 24.
5.Fully close door.
6.Is resistance greater than 500k ohms?
Yes-GO to «C2».
No-GO to «C3».
C2 CHECK HARNESS AND DOOR LATCH SWITCH -- SWITCH CLOSED
1.With door open measure resistance.
2.Is resistance greater than 10 ohms?
Yes-GO to «C3».
No-Switch and wiring OK.
PINPOINT TEST C: DOOR AJAR SWITCH DIAGNOSIS
C3 CHECK DOOR AJAR (LATCH) SWITCH -- SWITCH OPEN
1.Remove door trim panel.
2.Disconnect wiring harness from door latch switch.
3.Measure resistance between switch terminal and ground (latch).
4.Fully close door.
5.Is resistance greater than 500k ohms?
Yes-GO to «C4».
No-REPLACE switch. INSTALL original passive restraint module.
C4 CHECK DOOR AJAR (LATCH) SWITCH -- SWITCH CLOSED
1.With door open measure resistance.
2,Is resistance greater than 10 ohms?
Yes-REPLACE switch. INSTALL original passive restraint module.
No-GO to «C5».
C5 CHECK HARNESS DOOR AJAR (LATCH) SWITCH
1.Measure resistance between pins of the door latch switch harness to pins of the passive restraint module mating connector:
A.Driver side--door switch harness pin to Pin 13.
B.Passenger side--door switch harness pin to Pin 8.
2.Is continuity present?
Yes-Switch and wiring OK.
No-CORRECT wiring concern. INSTALL original passive restraint module.

PINPOINT TEST D: SHOULDER BELT RETRACTOR SWITCH
D1 CHECK SHOULDER BELT RETRACTOR SWITCH (BUCKLE ENGAGED)
1. Disconnect switch at connector attached to bracket on inboard side of seat track.
2.Set Digital Volt-ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent on 200 ohm scale.
3.Probe across switch connector terminals with shoulder belt tongue and buckle engaged.
4.Switch Closed (less than 10 ohms) GO to «D2».
5.Switch Open (more than 10 ohms) Malfunctioning switch. REPLACE retractor assembly.
D2 CHECK SHOULDER BELT RETRACTOR SWITCH (BUCKLE DISENGAGED)
1.Repeat procedure described in Step D1, except with shoulder belt tongue and buckle DISENGAGED and shoulder belt retracted in excess of 305mm (12 inches) from engaged position.
2.Switch Closed (less than 100K) Malfunctioning switch. REPLACE retractor assembly.
3.Switch Open (more than 100K) Switch OK. CONNECT harness to switch.

DIAGNOSTIC TIPS
o Belt Appears to Run Fine But Motor Stalls at A-pillar, Motor Could Get Warm
Possible Source(s): "A" limit switch wire shorted to ground. "A" limit switch not opening.
Action(s) to Take: Check for pinched wire along A-pillar, or behind LH or RH side cowl panel. Check that carrier reaches "A" limit switch.

o Fasten Belt Indicator (IP) Remains Lit After 7-10 Seconds of Running to B-pillar and chime sounds. Belt Appears to Run Fine But Motor Stalls at B-pillar, Motor Could Get Warm
Possible Source(s): "B" limit switch wire is shorted to ground.
Action(s) to Take: Check for pinched wire under guide attachment screws.
Possible Source(s): Obstruction.
Action(s) to Take: Check for trim screw, obstruction in track or track seal that prevents the carrier from reaching the "B" limit switch.

o Belt Will Not Run, Module May Be Burned
Possible Source(s): Motor wire shorted to ground.
Action(s) to Take: Check for short to ground on the motor circuit breaker terminals.

oBelt Will Not Run
Possible Source(s): Inertia switch tripped.
Action(s) to Take: Reset (depress) fuel pump inertia switch button.
Possible Source(s): Motor wire not connected.
Action(s) to Take: Check for unconnected connectors on the motor, or behind LH and RH side cowl panels.

o Belt Runs to A-pillar Only, Belt Will Not Run Back to B-pillar
Possible Source(s): Door switch wire shorted to ground.
Action(s) to Take: Check for pinched wire behind door trim panel.
Possible Source(s): "B" limit switch wire not connected.
Action(s) to Take: Check for unconnected connectors near motor, behind LH and RH side cowl panel, or on "B" limit switch.
Possible Source(s): "B" limit switch plunger stuck in depressed position.
Action(s) to Take: Correct jammed switch or replace "B" limit switch.

o Belt Runs to B-pillar Only, Belt Will Not Run Forward to A-pillar.
Possible Source(s): Door switch wire not connected.
Action(s) to Take: Check for unconnected connectors on door latch switch, or behind LH and RH side cowl panel.
Possible Source(s): "A" limit switch wire not connected.
Action(s) to Take: Check for unconnected connectors behind LH and RH side cowl panel, or on "A" limit switch.
Possible Source(s): Obstruction.
Action(s) to Take: Check for trim screw, track seal or jammed track locking pawl that prevents the carrier from reaching the "A" limit switch.

o Opening/Closing Door Causes Both Belts to Move
Possible Source(s): Damaged Door Ajar indicator assembly.
Action(s) to Take: Replace Door Ajar indicator assembly.

o Turning Ignition Off Causes Belt to Move to A-pillar
Possible Source(s): Damaged Door Ajar indicator assembly.
Action(s) to Take: Replace Door Ajar indicator assembly.

o Fasten Belt Indicator Remains On, Chime Sounds for Four to Eight Seconds Once Belts Reach B-pillar
Possible Source(s): Connector to shoulder emergency release retractor switches not connected.
Action(s) to Take: Check for unconnected connectors in console near shoulder strap connector.

o Excessive Noise While Motor is Running
Possible Source(s): Motor Adjustment knob on top of motor hits body.
Action(s) to Take: Loosen motor, slide motor downward, then tighten motor.
 
J.D. said:
Have you checked the door ajar switch (at the door latch, not the one near the door hinges)? The easiest way to check it is by observing the Door Ajar Indicator Lamp in the instrument cluster. If it doesn't come on, it may be burnt out. You can then check the switch by unplugging the Passive Restraint Module and opening and shutting the driver's door while checking for continuity between the dark blue wire at the module's connector and ground. For the passenger's door, check the red wire.

Wow, your post gave me hope. but I went out and looked and found out I only have 1 switch for the door, it is by the hinges. there is nothing on the other side of the door (latch side) but the striker pin. i checked Hi and Low.

By the way guys, my cougar is a 93 model. I forgot to say that in the 1st. post.
 
MickeyD LX50 said:
I have a '92 manual on CD. Try these procedures for now and see what happens:

PINPOINT TEST A: Track "A" limit switch diagnosis
A1 CHECK HARNESS AND "A" LIMIT SWITCH CLOSED POSITION
1.Remove access cover over the motor of the side to be checked.
2.Rotate the motor by hand so that the transport is somewhere in between both ends of track but at least 3 inches from either end of track.
3.Remove passive restraint module to gain access to mating connector.
4.Set Digital Volt-Ohmmeter on 200 ohm scale, use Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent.
5.Measure resistance between pins of mating connector for the passive restraint module:
A. Driver side between Pins 5 and 24.
B.Passenger side between Pins 23 and 24.
Is resistance greater than 10 ohms?
No-GO to «A2».
Yes-GO to «A3».
A2 CHECK HARNESS AND "A" LIMIT SWITCH OPEN POSITION
1.Rotate the motor by hand so that the transport is at the A-pillar.
2.Measure resistance between pins of mating connector for the passive restraint module:
A.Driver side between Pins 5 and 24.
B.Passenger side between Pins 23 and 24
3.Is resistance greater than 500k ohms?
No-GO to «A4».
Yes-Switch and wiring OK.
A3 CHECK "A" LIMIT SWITCH CLOSED POSITION
1.Remove the trim over the track and the "A" limit switch.
2.Disconnect the connector from the limit switch.
3.Measure resistance between pins of the limit switch.
4.Is resistance greater than 10 ohms?
No-GO to «A5».
Yes-REPLACE switch. INSTALL original passive restraint module.
A4 CHECK "A" LIMIT SWITCH OPEN POSITION
1.Remove the trim over the track and the "A" limit switch.
2.Make sure carrier fully depresses plunger of limit switch.
3.Disconnect the connector from the limit switch.
4.Measure resistance between pins of the limit switch.
5.Is resistance greater than 500k ohms?
No-REPLACE switch. INSTALL original passive restraint module.
Yes-Go to <<A5>>
A5 CHECK HARNESS FROM MODULE MATING CONNECTOR TO LIMIT SWITCH
1.Measure resistance between pins of the limit switch harness to pins of the Passive Restraint Module mating connector:
A. Driver side--one limit switch pin to Pin 24 (ground), other limit switch
pin to Pin 5.
B.Passenger side--one limit switch pin to Pin 24 (ground), other limit
switch pin to Pin 23.
2.Is continuity present?
Yes-Wiring OK.
No-CORRECT wiring. INSTALL original passive restraint module.

PINPOINT TEST B:Track "B" Limit Switch Diagnosis
B1 CHECK HARNESS AND "B" LIMIT SWITCH CLOSED POSITION
1.Remove access cover over the motor of the side to be checked.
2.Rotate the motor by hand so that the transport is somewhere in between both ends of track but at least 3 inches from either end of track..
3.Remove passive restraint module to gain access to mating connector.
4.Set Digital Volt-Ohmmeter on 200 ohm scale, use Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent.
5.Measure resistance between pins of mating connector for the passive restraint module:
A. Driver side between Pins 18 and 24.
B.Passenger side between Pins 21 and 24.
Is resistance greater than 10 ohms?
No-GO to «B2».
Yes-GO to «B3».
B2 CHECK HARNESS AND "B" LIMIT SWITCH OPEN POSITION
1.Rotate the motor by hand so that the transport is at the B-pillar.
2.Measure resistance between pins of mating connector for the passive restraint module:
A.Driver side between Pins 18 and 24.
B.Passenger side between Pins 21 and 24
3.Is resistance greater than 500k ohms?
No-GO to «B4».
Yes-Switch and wiring OK.
B3 CHECK "B" LIMIT SWITCH CLOSED POSITION
1.Remove the trim over the track and the "B" limit switch.
2.Disconnect the connector from the limit switch.
3.Measure resistance between pins of the limit switch.
4.Is resistance greater than 10 ohms?
No-GO to «B5».
Yes-REPLACE switch. INSTALL original passive restraint module.
B4 CHECK "B" LIMIT SWITCH OPEN POSITION
1.Remove the trim over the track and the "B" limit switch.
2.Make sure carrier fully depresses plunger of limit switch.
3.Disconnect the connector from the limit switch.
4.Measure resistance between pins of the limit switch.
5.Is resistance greater than 500k ohms?
No-REPLACE switch. INSTALL original passive restraint module.
Yes-Go to <<B5>>
B5 CHECK HARNESS FROM MODULE MATING CONNECTOR TO LIMIT SWITCH
1.Measure resistance between pins of the limit switch harness to pins of the Passive Restraint Module mating connector:
A. Driver side--one limit switch pin to Pin 24 (ground), other limit switch
pin to Pin 19.
B.Passenger side--one limit switch pin to Pin 24 (ground), other limit
switch pin to Pin 21.
2.Is continuity present?
Yes-Wiring OK.
No-CORRECT wiring. INSTALL original passive restraint module.

PINPOINT TEST C: DOOR AJAR SWITCH DIAGNOSIS
C1 CHECK HARNESS AND DOOR LATCH SWITCH -- SWITCH OPEN
1.Turn ignition to OFF (position 0).
2.Remove passive restraint module to gain access to mating connector.
3.Set Digital Volt-Ohmmeter on 20K ohm scale, use Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent.
4.Measure resistance between pins of mating connector for passive restraint module:
A. Driver side between Pins 13 and 24.
B. Passenger side between Pins 8 and 24.
5.Fully close door.
6.Is resistance greater than 500k ohms?
Yes-GO to «C2».
No-GO to «C3».
C2 CHECK HARNESS AND DOOR LATCH SWITCH -- SWITCH CLOSED
1.With door open measure resistance.
2.Is resistance greater than 10 ohms?
Yes-GO to «C3».
No-Switch and wiring OK.
PINPOINT TEST C: DOOR AJAR SWITCH DIAGNOSIS
C3 CHECK DOOR AJAR (LATCH) SWITCH -- SWITCH OPEN
1.Remove door trim panel.
2.Disconnect wiring harness from door latch switch.
3.Measure resistance between switch terminal and ground (latch).
4.Fully close door.
5.Is resistance greater than 500k ohms?
Yes-GO to «C4».
No-REPLACE switch. INSTALL original passive restraint module.
C4 CHECK DOOR AJAR (LATCH) SWITCH -- SWITCH CLOSED
1.With door open measure resistance.
2,Is resistance greater than 10 ohms?
Yes-REPLACE switch. INSTALL original passive restraint module.
No-GO to «C5».
C5 CHECK HARNESS DOOR AJAR (LATCH) SWITCH
1.Measure resistance between pins of the door latch switch harness to pins of the passive restraint module mating connector:
A.Driver side--door switch harness pin to Pin 13.
B.Passenger side--door switch harness pin to Pin 8.
2.Is continuity present?
Yes-Switch and wiring OK.
No-CORRECT wiring concern. INSTALL original passive restraint module.

PINPOINT TEST D: SHOULDER BELT RETRACTOR SWITCH
D1 CHECK SHOULDER BELT RETRACTOR SWITCH (BUCKLE ENGAGED)
1. Disconnect switch at connector attached to bracket on inboard side of seat track.
2.Set Digital Volt-ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent on 200 ohm scale.
3.Probe across switch connector terminals with shoulder belt tongue and buckle engaged.
4.Switch Closed (less than 10 ohms) GO to «D2».
5.Switch Open (more than 10 ohms) Malfunctioning switch. REPLACE retractor assembly.
D2 CHECK SHOULDER BELT RETRACTOR SWITCH (BUCKLE DISENGAGED)
1.Repeat procedure described in Step D1, except with shoulder belt tongue and buckle DISENGAGED and shoulder belt retracted in excess of 305mm (12 inches) from engaged position.
2.Switch Closed (less than 100K) Malfunctioning switch. REPLACE retractor assembly.
3.Switch Open (more than 100K) Switch OK. CONNECT harness to switch.

DIAGNOSTIC TIPS
o Belt Appears to Run Fine But Motor Stalls at A-pillar, Motor Could Get Warm
Possible Source(s): "A" limit switch wire shorted to ground. "A" limit switch not opening.
Action(s) to Take: Check for pinched wire along A-pillar, or behind LH or RH side cowl panel. Check that carrier reaches "A" limit switch.

o Fasten Belt Indicator (IP) Remains Lit After 7-10 Seconds of Running to B-pillar and chime sounds. Belt Appears to Run Fine But Motor Stalls at B-pillar, Motor Could Get Warm
Possible Source(s): "B" limit switch wire is shorted to ground.
Action(s) to Take: Check for pinched wire under guide attachment screws.
Possible Source(s): Obstruction.
Action(s) to Take: Check for trim screw, obstruction in track or track seal that prevents the carrier from reaching the "B" limit switch.

o Belt Will Not Run, Module May Be Burned
Possible Source(s): Motor wire shorted to ground.
Action(s) to Take: Check for short to ground on the motor circuit breaker terminals.

oBelt Will Not Run
Possible Source(s): Inertia switch tripped.
Action(s) to Take: Reset (depress) fuel pump inertia switch button.
Possible Source(s): Motor wire not connected.
Action(s) to Take: Check for unconnected connectors on the motor, or behind LH and RH side cowl panels.

o Belt Runs to A-pillar Only, Belt Will Not Run Back to B-pillar
Possible Source(s): Door switch wire shorted to ground.
Action(s) to Take: Check for pinched wire behind door trim panel.
Possible Source(s): "B" limit switch wire not connected.
Action(s) to Take: Check for unconnected connectors near motor, behind LH and RH side cowl panel, or on "B" limit switch.
Possible Source(s): "B" limit switch plunger stuck in depressed position.
Action(s) to Take: Correct jammed switch or replace "B" limit switch.

o Belt Runs to B-pillar Only, Belt Will Not Run Forward to A-pillar.
Possible Source(s): Door switch wire not connected.
Action(s) to Take: Check for unconnected connectors on door latch switch, or behind LH and RH side cowl panel.
Possible Source(s): "A" limit switch wire not connected.
Action(s) to Take: Check for unconnected connectors behind LH and RH side cowl panel, or on "A" limit switch.
Possible Source(s): Obstruction.
Action(s) to Take: Check for trim screw, track seal or jammed track locking pawl that prevents the carrier from reaching the "A" limit switch.

o Opening/Closing Door Causes Both Belts to Move
Possible Source(s): Damaged Door Ajar indicator assembly.
Action(s) to Take: Replace Door Ajar indicator assembly.

o Turning Ignition Off Causes Belt to Move to A-pillar
Possible Source(s): Damaged Door Ajar indicator assembly.
Action(s) to Take: Replace Door Ajar indicator assembly.

o Fasten Belt Indicator Remains On, Chime Sounds for Four to Eight Seconds Once Belts Reach B-pillar
Possible Source(s): Connector to shoulder emergency release retractor switches not connected.
Action(s) to Take: Check for unconnected connectors in console near shoulder strap connector.

o Excessive Noise While Motor is Running
Possible Source(s): Motor Adjustment knob on top of motor hits body.
Action(s) to Take: Loosen motor, slide motor downward, then tighten motor.

ok, I just need to know the numbering system for the plug, so I can find the right pins, that is alot of info. thanks. I hope you "cut and pasted" all that....lol
 
Pearl Red XR7 said:
Wow, your post gave me hope. but I went out and looked and found out I only have 1 switch for the door, it is by the hinges. there is nothing on the other side of the door (latch side) but the striker pin. i checked Hi and Low.

By the way guys, my cougar is a 93 model. I forgot to say that in the 1st. post.

The switch is inside the door on the back of the latch.

Mike Donley
 
MickeyD LX50 said:
The switch is inside the door on the back of the latch.

Mike Donley

I did not look there! sounds like a royal pain to get to, like the power lock motor. I'll check it tomorrow when i have some light. Thank you
 
Pearl Red XR7 said:
ok, I just need to know the numbering system for the plug, so I can find the right pins, that is alot of info. thanks. I hope you "cut and pasted" all that....lol

The door ajar warning indicator connector C is part of the 14401 wiring harness. The connector is located directly behind the door ajar warning indicator. The door ajar warning indicator is located in the instrument panel to the right of the steering column.
doorajar_copy.jpg


Mike Donley
 
Last edited:
Pearl Red XR7 said:
I did not look there! sounds like a royal pain to get to, like the power lock motor. I'll check it tomorrow when i have some light. Thank you
It's easier to check the switches from the module's connector as explained in post #4.
 
J.D. said:
It's easier to check the switches from the module's connector as explained in post #4.

I agree. I was only letting him know that he did have a door ajar switch and where it was located in case it was found to be bad. Its better to have too much information than not enough. I have the diagrams for the module connectors as well.

passiverestraint.jpg


passiverestraint2.jpg


Mike Donley
 
MickeyD LX50 said:
I agree. I was only letting him know that he did have a door ajar switch and where it was located in case it was found to be bad. Its better to have too much information than not enough. I have the diagrams for the module connectors as well.

passiverestraint.jpg


passiverestraint2.jpg


Mike Donley

Ok, just making sure we are on the same page, the first connector you sent is in my dash close to the gauges, it has the pin numbers and the wire colors, the last connectors you sent were in the trunk and plug in to the passive restraint module it only has the wire colors listed. so if I cross refrence the wire colors i can do the same tests with out haveing to pull my dash apart? or is that too easy and will blow my car up..lol The info you guys send is great, I just have to get used to this car. I have only had it 1 week
 
Pearl Red XR7 said:
Ok, just making sure we are on the same page, the first connector you sent is in my dash close to the gauges, it has the pin numbers and the wire colors, the last connectors you sent were in the trunk and plug in to the passive restraint module it only has the wire colors listed. so if I cross refrence the wire colors i can do the same tests with out haveing to pull my dash apart? or is that too easy and will blow my car up..lol The info you guys send is great, I just have to get used to this car. I have only had it 1 week

Correct. I would write what pins match each color on the module connector drawing. I don't know why they didn't put the pin numbers on the connector drawing because all of the steps in the diagnosis chart references probing at the module end, not the dash connector. Makes extra work for the technician, in my opinion.

Mike Donley
 
Pearl Red XR7 said:
Ok, just making sure we are on the same page, the first connector you sent is in my dash close to the gauges, it has the pin numbers and the wire colors, the last connectors you sent were in the trunk and plug in to the passive restraint module it only has the wire colors listed. so if I cross refrence the wire colors i can do the same tests with out haveing to pull my dash apart? or is that too easy and will blow my car up..lol The info you guys send is great, I just have to get used to this car. I have only had it 1 week

Ok, all this has me thinking that the door switches are maybe to blame for all this. I went in to the dash and made sure all indicator bulbs work and then turned on the key and opened a door, no door ajar light I closed the driver door and opened the passenger door, no light, interior lights work with both doors (I do know that we are talking about different switches). It would make since if the switches were stuck in the door closed position that you would get no indicator light and the belts would not know that the door is open. But, both switches go bad at same time? That sounds funny to me. Can you guys tell me if the switches share something in common like a module, you might have said it already and I'm just missing it? In the mean time I'll hunting for the plug in my dash while it is apart.

I forgot to say that the seatbelt light stays on, even with both shoulder belts hooked.
Thanks again guys
 
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I think there's some confusion with the diagrams. Post #10 shows the module and post #12 shows the connectors that plug into the module. So each diagram is a mirror image of the other.
 
Pearl Red XR7 said:
Ok, all this has me thinking that the door switches are maybe to blame for all this. I went in to the dash and made sure all indicator bulbs work and then turned on the key and opened a door, no door ajar light I closed the driver door and opened the passenger door, no light, interior lights work with both doors (I do know that we are talking about different switches). It would make since if the switches were stuck in the door closed position that you would get no indicator light and the belts would not know that the door is open. But, both switches go bad at same time? That sounds funny to me. Can you guys tell me if the switches share something in common like a module, you might have said it already and I'm just missing it? In the mean time I'll hunting for the plug in my dash while it is apart.

I forgot to say that the seatbelt light stays on, even with both shoulder belts hooked.
Thanks again guys
Your seatbelt light could stay on because of a faulty Seatbelt Chime Module. I've had that happen to me.
The door ajar switches don't go through a different module so it does seem odd that they both wouldn't work. But I think you're wasting your time by ripping open the dash. Check the door ajar switches at the connectors to the Passive Restraint Module. You could try to short one of the wires to ground (while the connectors are plugged in) and see if the seatbelt then moves.
 
J.D. said:
I think there's some confusion with the diagrams. Post #10 shows the module and post #12 shows the connectors that plug into the module. So each diagram is a mirror image of the other.

yes, I was confusied, But I'm with the progam now.
 
Pearl Red XR7 said:
yes, I was confusied, But I'm with the progam now.

Well guys, that problem is fixed. It was the switches in the doors, they were unplugged (not by me) so the system half way works now. It will be 100% after I replace the passenger side switch. I could not have fixed this with out the help you've rendered. Thank you.
 
Pearl Red XR7 said:
Well guys, that problem is fixed. It was the switches in the doors, they were unplugged (not by me) so the system half way works now. It will be 100% after I replace the passenger side switch. I could not have fixed this with out the help you've rendered. Thank you.

Cool, glad I could be of service.

Mike Donley
 
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