Mp Fmic & Trans Cooling ????

Randy N Connie

Registered User
I have been installing a MP FMIC ,for the last month . When I get the time to work on it.I don't like the FMIC mounts to the radiator frame.It looks like the two top FMIC mounting flanges need to be rubber mounted.I found some rubber bushings to mount the FMIC on the top.

My next problem and my question is.The radiator bolts to the MP FMIC.
TOUCHING EACH OTHER.I want to seperate the FMIC from the radiator.
I am looking into moving the FMIC forward about 1'' to 4''.This will give me a space between the radiator and FMIC.And hopfuly help the FMIC run a little cooler by not soaking heat from the radiator.I plan to keep the radiator in
it stock location.I don't run any A/C parts.

I didn't get all the parts when I bought the FMIC new but second hand.So I did not get all the parts to hook up the way MP wants it to be mounted.So its not a problem to make changes.Its going to cost more either way I mount the MP FMIC.

By putting a space between the radiator and the FMIC do you think this will be much help in FMIC temps?I am also going to add some aluminum duct work
for more air flow.

While I am on cooling.I installed a B&M 22000 gvwr TRANS cooler after the radiator with thermastat control on fan.And before the radiator I installed a 20,000 gvwr trans cooler,no fan.I have a Lentech with a 8.5'' convertor with 2400 stall ,non-lock.Do you all think this will work ok?

RANDY
 
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Randy,

Personally I feel the Tranny cooler issue is a little overboard. Generally speaking you want the AOD to run no cooler thnen around 180 degrees. To cold you will get slippage and premature tranny failure. Same goes if temp is to high. One cooler should be more then enough. I'd also run it through the radiator cooler if you have one...And run the cooler after the radiator cooler.

As far as the MP goes the biggest problem I see is the engine running hotter being the IC is not only blocking airflow to the radiator..But blowing hot air onto the radiator itself. (All front mounts do this not just the MP) I'm sure someone who has played around with the MP can tell you better as to how their ICT temps are then I would. Not so sure moving it will be worth modifying tubes and whatnot

Damon
 
Damom ,The tranny fluild dos run through the radiator cooler also.

I have talk to other with a Lentech with the same size cooler that i have with the fan on it.And they say they need to drive 80 mph to keep the trans cool.
This is why i added another cooler.I cant drive 80mph all the time to keep trhe trans cool.

Have you ever heard i hate auto trans.
RANDY
 
haha YES RANDY!

But seriously teh biggest mistake most people do is to not run through the radiator and just run an external..Usually those are teh trannies that overheat unless your really moving..Hopefully ay get it all together rsoon..I want updates!
 
I finished my last manifold-plenum today ,for Brandon,Stage II.So I will not be doing any more Plenum-manifolds mods. Until spring or when it get warm again.

So after I get the homestead winterrized,I will have time to work on my own parts for my SC .

I did get to work on some billet aluminum IC tube clamps today.

First up,install a stageIII manifold & plenum .

2.build a reversed raised stock looking blower hat.
Hook up my MP FMIC,with the blower IC tube going straight to the FMIC on the passenger side of my SC.And on the drivers side the IC tube on the cold side of the FMIC will go straight back to the intake manifold plenum.

3.install k-member and related parts.

4.Move battery to the trunk.

4.Install doors ,cobra-r hood,trunk lid,and maybe a cobra-r front bumpercover,& cobra-r rear wing..

5.Adjust new transmission.

6.Make and install a gas cooled IC tube insert .

7.And of course a couple other projects I can't talk about. :)

8. Get my hole saw out and lightin up my SC some & get more air into the front end.

9.Continue to work toward getting my back up motor done.

Randy
 
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DamonSlowpokeBaumann said:
haha YES RANDY!

But seriously teh biggest mistake most people do is to not run through the radiator and just run an external..Usually those are teh trannies that overheat unless your really moving..Hopefully ay get it all together rsoon..I want updates!
Damon,
I was told the colder you run the tranny the better. Also why run the tranny thru a rad that runs @ 210+ and try to cool it down to 180. I have a non lockup and it runs around 180 and that is thru an external cooler only. I do not think I have to worry about tranny slipping.....I am using ATF+3 fluid, which has friction modifiers in it.
Later
Ken
 
My thought on installing two coolers.Was to cool the trans fluild before the trans to help cool the trans fluild and help keep the radiator temps down.

The second cool was install to keep the trans trans fluild down to 180.

I kept the radiator cooler in the trans cooling loop .To be able to keep a constant temp year around.

I still need to buy a transmission temp gauge yet.

RANDY
 
If your second transmission cooler is after the radiator cooler, it will cool the ATF down too much (during warmup when the transmission and engine are not hot) and it will take longer for the transmission to reach its operating temperature (especially on a cold day).
 
Actually AOD's are made to optimally perform at that 180-200 degreee range...What the internal radiator cooler does is keep the fluid warm as well as cool. I dont think there is any reputable tranny builder that would reccomend just an external cooler for a car driven on a daily basis

Run a tranny to cold and the clearences will not be where they should be and that is why you will have premature clutch failure..Too hot you have fluid breakdown and problems associated with that. You start running into problems when yourun converter high stalls thus heating up the fluid to a point greater the the factory supplied cooler can handle..Thats really when you nee dthat external cooler.

Ken if yer running at 180 consistantly then it really shouldnt be a problem..Although having no kind of moderator (such as the factory type radiator supplied cooler) I just cant see it always staying at 180 without substantial swings in fluid temp in different driving conditions
 
Ken Seegers said:
Also why run the tranny thru a rad that runs @ 210+ and try to cool it down to 180.

We should keep in mind that the radiator trans cooler is in the tank on the "chilled" side of the radiator. That side is considerably cooler than the temp reading at the thermostat, approx 130-140 on some cars I checked with a temp gun years ago. I haven't specifically looked at an SC.
 
What you guy's need is one of these! LOL!!!!!
But of course they only come with one of my custom built radiators. LOL!!!
Ask Rivlee about it, he does'nt have an overheating tranny anymore and says he does'nt even worry about it either.
(I know...a shameless plug, but I could'nt help myself) :eek:
 

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DamonSlowpokeBaumann said:
Actually AOD's are made to optimally perform at that 180-200 degreee range...What the internal radiator cooler does is keep the fluid warm as well as cool. I dont think there is any reputable tranny builder that would reccomend just an external cooler for a car driven on a daily basis

Run a tranny to cold and the clearences will not be where they should be and that is why you will have premature clutch failure..Too hot you have fluid breakdown and problems associated with that. You start running into problems when yourun converter high stalls thus heating up the fluid to a point greater the the factory supplied cooler can handle..Thats really when you nee dthat external cooler.

Ken if yer running at 180 consistantly then it really shouldnt be a problem..Although having no kind of moderator (such as the factory type radiator supplied cooler) I just cant see it always staying at 180 without substantial swings in fluid temp in different driving conditions
Damon,
My tranny temp runs to 180 after a several miles. I have only seen 195 in traffic. My tranny temp does not move up and down that much. Once I am on the road it stays between 170-180. I currently do not have a fan on, but I am planning on adding one with a temp sensor to turn it on.
Later
Ken
 
Ken, reach out for me. I have a few questions for ya.

Also, I have had my share with my Level Ten trans to this point. The Lentech is in the mail. ... But, only assumptions, when you run the trans cooler into the radiator, I believe you should guarantee results. Because the radiator also warms up a cold trans fluid. I mean if the trans cooler chills it to about 160 or so, then the radiator is there to bring it back to the optimal 180-200 range. ... So in theory (I'll have more results next week on both ends of this debate) just a trans cooler should keep it from getting too hot, but cooler to rad should keep it from getting too cool afterwards.

Anthony
 
I think you guys are getting worried about something that isn't really a problem. If you have a non locking converter...the transmission is going to heat up plenty quick without the radiator warming the fluid.

I've got a pair of B&M 28K stack plate coolers bolted back to back with an 800 cfm fan wired to run continiously. I can't recall ever hearing about someone damaging their transmission because they over cooled it, but I hear about people burning them up all the time because they didn't have a large enough cooler. In the winter mine stays around 150 degrees and will go as high as 180 if sitting in traffic for extented periods. In the summer it stays about 180 and will go as high as 200 if sitting traffic for extended periods.

150 degrees is not cold and I don't believe that operating an automatic transmission (especially an AOD) at that temp has any negative effects or causes additional wear.

David
 
Running a tranny to low temp wise will definately have ill effects..Keep in mind a tranny is suppossed to last ...Forever (or close to it) when driven under normal conditions. Ive had stock AOD's last well over 100,000 beating on them even..So running a tranny even for 50,000 miles at a lower temp doesnt mean its operating properly nor causing any premature wear.

Of course running it to hot is worse as you break down the fluid...But people generally overdo it with coolers
 
Well the cooling system i have looks nice.I will just get a temp guage
to keep an eye on the trans temp.and adjust if need be.

It really dosent matter ,the new trans I got.I can't get it adjusted to work any way.I will not shift into P or R.I have adjusted in every day for two months now, 1 to 5 times on each try.I have allmost worn the threads off the adjuster.

I have done what I know,that has work on every trans.And followed everyones dirrection that I have been able to get ahold of.I think that
after buying my SC parts from others and have been riped off 90% of
the time,I just as well mark this new trans as another burn.
Besides not getting the trans to shift right.I fill the trans with fluild,
and there are no engagement of the gears.The car will not even
move no matter were the selector is placed on the side of the trans.I just
ran the car for about 30 seconds so far .And not one gear would inguage.
Over $4000.00 down the drain.


I am just going to finish my FMIC when I finish making the parts,that I
allready payed for but dont have.And install a inline water to water cooler
with the air to air MP FMIC.

RANDY
 
SilverCasket said:
Ken, reach out for me. I have a few questions for ya.

Also, I have had my share with my Level Ten trans to this point. The Lentech is in the mail. ... But, only assumptions, when you run the trans cooler into the radiator, I believe you should guarantee results. Because the radiator also warms up a cold trans fluid. I mean if the trans cooler chills it to about 160 or so, then the radiator is there to bring it back to the optimal 180-200 range. ... So in theory (I'll have more results next week on both ends of this debate) just a trans cooler should keep it from getting too hot, but cooler to rad should keep it from getting too cool afterwards.

Anthony
Anthony,
Most people run an external cooler after the tranny fluid has been thru the radiator....at least that is the way the cooler companies tell you to run them. I agree with David on what he is saying. Non lockup converter generate alot heat...how much depends on how loose the converter is. The problems you had with Level Ten is because of some idoit at Level Ten that should have installed an external cooler on your car to begin with. I have been told to install an external cooler once you go to a non lockup converter.
Good Luck your Lentech. Keep me posted on your progress.
Later
Ken
 
Randy N Connie said:
Anthony I have a brand new Lentech for sale.2400 stall convertor 8.5" non-lock up.
RANDY


Randy,

I think you have done more than enough to try and trouble shoot that transmission. If it were me, I would get on the phone and talk to Len and insist that he ship you a replacement transmission and you can return the one you have after the replacement is installed.

That is what Art Carr did for Kurt K. and Lentech should do the same.

David
 
I went back out to the shop to start to unbolt my new trans,and give up.
And I thought I would try one more time to adjust the trans.And it went right it to place.Didn't do anything different than I have been doing.The third time is not the charm around here,its about the 100th time makes a charm here.
This dang car sure has belittled me at times.I just can't wait to get it running
real nice.So I can tair the heii out of it,to pay it back.

Now I just need to swap manifolds & plenum. Then hook up my IC,so I can try it out.I can't deside if I want to put a Stage II stock heigth manifold ,or a Stage III raised manifold. I had a Stage I on when my last transmission went out,on a test run.If I go with a Stage III ,I will half to install my Cobra R hood.Then I will need to paint the car ,or it will look like a cop car with white hood and white doors,with black paint job on the rest.

If I have a black-n-white SC. Do you think one of the moderators would buy it.If I throw in a set of red flashin cop lights to go on top of my SC? :)

Randy
 
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