SC motor is running

V6Sprout

Registered User
well I downloaded the new EEC TUNER file a friend of mine made, he is the other guy with the SC motor in his mustang.

To my surprise the car fired up right away. It ran alright for a while, smaoked a lot due to all new gaskets and stuff. Was idling a little rough but not too bad. Vacuum was around 16-20. I had to change the oil since the oil in the car was full of gas, when the EEC had the old tune the car would crank over forever till she fired up and then ran really badly, so I flooded the mtor a few times. Thats how the oil got so full of gas, it smelled really strong of gas, the oil that is.

Anyways, no with fresh oil in the car doesn't want to stay running. As soon as it starts up it stalls out. Also there is a slight buzzing on startup, not sure what this is since I have never heard the SC blower up close, is this small buzz normal? I think it may be my AC compressor, since I have it disconnected but the compressor is still hooked up. There are no AC lines running from it so the back ofthe AC compressor is open, and I think it made a buzzing sound when I spun it freely.

Another thing too is that after about 1 minute of runing, I have to keep the revs up to keep her running, it sounds like it may have a knock. When I go to check it out the car stalls out on me :) I need ot get my wife to help me on this one to keep the car running.

Idle has been set to just over 800 rpms. Other then that is sounds MEAN! I hope I can get her to run for this weekend, its the MOD MOTOR SHOOTOUT in Maryland, if I can get my car towed down I will go, maybe someone there can fine tune the EEC for me, but if its not running right I WILL NOT take it down the track, just take her to get fine tuned and hang out with everyone, and show off the beast as well :) Now to find someone with a truck and trailer that wants to tow it down for me. Any takers?
 
Jamie,

Sounds to me like you need some TB adjustment. Regardless of where the EEC is set for idle (mine was 764 and wouldn't run), the manual adjustment will help the car maintain idle once it has settled down from running in cold-start mode.

Blower "buzz" is entirely normal. All 3 blowers I have run on my car, either with 140km, bad porting, or newly ported with full rebuild have all prodused that sound, and likewise with all the other SCs I've heard. The A/C compressor can also make a similar and more consistant sound, especially with age.

Vacuum at 16-20 is okay with a performance cam. Mine does the same, and did if not closer to 10 when I first ran it. You will create more vacuum as the motor breaks in and the car settles down with a consistant EEC tune.

Try adjusting the TB about 0.5-1.0 turn (open) on the butterfly and see how she settles down out of limp mode. You can actually get your wife to sit in the car while you use a feeler gauge to see how much adjustment is actually needed, then tightening the screw, rather than playing trial and error forever.

Let me know if this helps.
 
thats good news to my ears Bill, so I will try and adjust the TB to open slightly more, half to a full turn, cool, thanks!
 
Jamie,

You know which adjustment I am refering to, right? The one on the butterfly itself, that will require the allen head (small) toll to move the exposed threads up and down (in this case, down). The other adjustment is on the side with the electronics, the one that you adjust with the flathead screwdriver on the TPS, leave that alone for now. I will email Fred in the meantime and ask him what he did to that adjustment so that I can pass the recommendation on.

Forgive me if you already know all this, I just don't want to mislead you or take any chances. I know you know your stuff! :)
 
i thought you were reffering to the idle adjustment screw, good thing you mentioned it, thanks, I'll wait till you hear from Fred then. These SC parts are all new to me, some are the same as mustang parts but some are different too, i don'tthink my mustang TB had an adjustment screw on the butterfly at least not as far as I knew , thanks for the heads up there Bill.
 
Jamie,

The adjustment screw that Bill is talking about is on the linkage side of the TB. There should only be that one adjuster there. Feel free to play with it, as you shouldn't hurt anything. You can do this yourself, but don't go much more than one turn at a time.

I'm glad to hear that the project is coming together for you. It's been a long time since you could drive that car! We're all anxious to see what that powerplant can do in a lighter car with a solid rear axle.

Best regards,

Sean
 
thanks for the help sean, I'll take a look on the linkage side for the adjustment screw. I am so dying to drive this car but I am cautious to as well, don't want to drive it if its not running right either, its a big investment to ruin by anticipation :)
 
Jamie,

Did you get that thing running yet? Did you disconnect the blower to isolate the noise?

...I noticed last night just how bad the chatter is in my blower. I think it's time to port and rebuild that spare blower I grabbed a few months back.

Cheers,

Sean
 
I had it running for a good 3-5 minutes at 1200-1500 rpm's anythign lower and she would stall out, sounded pretty good though while it was running. I looked at the TB and ont he linkage side it appears to be the idle adjustment screw, but other then that I can't find any other adjustment screw, on either side.
 
Jamie,

Before you get too excited about the problem with the engine not settling into a nice idle, have you done any checks for vacuum leaks? I would make sure you have that ironed out first.

Cheers,

Sean
 
yeah my vacuum seems to be fine, I get around 12psi now, and more when IO rev it a bit. If the idle drops a bit it will go as low as 8psi now.

I have a new tune and the cr idles a lot better now, I can actually let it idle by itself now :)
 
Jamie,

Did you make any progress today? Are you taking the car to that event in Maryland? If you get that beast running right, maybe we can get together for a coffee or something this weekend?

Cheers,

Sean
 
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