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Thread: NARROWED down my probs to ECU or MAF

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    NYC
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    NARROWED down my probs to ECU or MAF

    Sup SuperCoupers,


    I have posted a previous thread and you guys gave much help.

    NARROWED down my probs to ECU or MAF

    Where can i get an high performance ECU that will just replace my stock one with minor or no adjustment. Where can i get one cheaper than the stealership or rebuit?

    Same goes 4 the MAF

    Any ideas?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    St. Charles, MO
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedMosesSC
    Sup SuperCoupers,


    I have posted a previous thread and you guys gave much help.

    NARROWED down my probs to ECU or MAF

    Where can i get an high performance ECU that will just replace my stock one with minor or no adjustment. Where can i get one cheaper than the stealership or rebuit?

    Same goes 4 the MAF

    Any ideas?
    There are no performance ECUs. Buy a used one (classified section) and have Dave Dalke burn you an SCT chip for performance enhancments.

    I would suspect a bad MAF before the ECU but anything is possible.

    David
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat...............707HP/650TQ

    My Garage

  3. #3
    Joisey Jim Guest
    If the ECU/EEC is still in the car you could check it with a code reader/scanner for a failure code like "511"; whereas if it's good it will show "111" Pass (note that if you have any aftermarket chip already attached it will likely throw a "511" anyway). You can also see if there are any MAF related codes in the memory.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    NYC
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    20
    Hey,

    No codes show up when using the Snap-On scanner, which leads us to believe the ECU went down south. Idles smooth but chokes wen given more than half way throttle. Found a kat who swapped out his orig MAF and is willing to sell me his old one at a reasonable cost. He says the black box on top is not included, is that the part of the MAF that may have malfunctioned.


    Thankx

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    St. Charles, MO
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    He says the black box on top is not included, is that the part of the MAF that may have malfunctioned.
    Yes...that's the only thing that could go bad, so buying the housing isn't going to help you. If your not getting ANY codes, something is wrong. If the EEC was that screwed up the car probably wouldn't run at all.

    Have you tried using the paper clip method for retreving codes ?

    I'm curious to know how you have narrowed it down to either the MAF or EEC ?

    David
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat...............707HP/650TQ

    My Garage

  6. #6
    Joisey Jim Guest
    If you have the 'Snap-On' scanner then I'd also run a KOER(engine running) test as well, to see if you get a Pass or Fail code.
    I believe I have some information at home about re-built EEC's - I'll look it up tonight. Ford used to offer re-manufactured ones with a lifetime warranty, but you're probably better off with an aftermarket one, now that we've passed the 10 year parts availability period with Ford.
    I'll tell you a quick story about the "pass or fail" codes - with my first SC back in 1990 I installed the infamous SuperChip & small pulley combination (not knowing any better at the time). When the car went in to the Ford dealer for a small warranty issue, they had to scan the EEC and got the "511" failure code. So they replaced the EEC with a re-manufactured Ford one under warranty (hence I know about the lifetime warranty on these replacement parts). Turns out that when you add an external chip to the EEC it automatically gives a 511 code because the system is being by-passed. Fortunately the car had to go back for a second appointment to install the replacement EEC and I was so nervous about them finding the Chip that I took it out and had to put it back in afterwards.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    san diego, ca
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedMosesSC
    Sup SuperCoupers,


    I have posted a previous thread and you guys gave much help.

    NARROWED down my probs to ECU or MAF

    Where can i get an high performance ECU that will just replace my stock one with minor or no adjustment. Where can i get one cheaper than the stealership or rebuit?

    Same goes 4 the MAF

    Any ideas?
    Doubt a bad ECU, with high impedance volt meter Mass air meter should read ~ .95V @ idle and increase in alinear fashion w eng. rpm. Run engine @ 1000 rpm, note DC voltage, then increase rpm to 2000 rpm, note voltage should be close to double, increase to 3000 and voltage should be close to triple idle reading. contaminated MAF usually show lower numbers as dirt welds to and insulates the hot wire of MAF. somrtimes cleaning elemenbt works, MAF usually gets contaminated by improper air filter installation. the filter drops in place fine but then the mechanic in shoving the air box top back on does not realise that he has caused the filter toslide off the upper edge, causing it to be bypassed. vaseline on air box edges helps, disconnecting the air intake tube @ thottle body or air box also allows the top to be inserted and then brought down avoiding sliding filter out of place. Seen that many times as a mechanic. usually happens @ places anxious to sell you a filter. the shame is that anair filter can look like it was under the car for several years without appreciably affecting performance, but the sloppy inslallation then results in this actual problem, not easily diagnosed. good luck. randy

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Location
    Robinson, Pennsylvania
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    im thinking more like bad fuel pump or harmonic balancer i never had probs with maf or ecu

  9. #9
    Joisey Jim Guest
    You can check the progressive voltage on the MAF like Randy says, but if you are out of range you should already be getting a "check engine" light and an MAF code in memory. I don't know what type of filter set-up you have but it's common on oil coated K&N types (panel or conical)for some residue to build-up on the MAF wires, especially if you are too liberal with spraying the oil on a cleaned filter. Try cleaning the wires with either alcohol (using a saturated q-tip) or an electrical safe spray cleaner.

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