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Thread: I need help guys, big time...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    141

    I need help guys, big time...

    ok guys, here's my problems.

    #1- I took my car around the block today, and while i was driving, the car was making some loud clunking noises. it was only while it was in drive and if i was accelerating. if i was coasting in neutral, the noise would go away. (i have a brand new tranny)

    #2- Car decided to die. it will start up... poorly. it takes a good while to start up. when it does start up, if i put it into gear, it dies.

    #3- opened the hood to take a look around (with car running) checked the oil, and to my amazement, oil level was high, and smoke was pouring out of the oil dipstick tube. removed the oil cap, and same thing. I figure i've blown my headgaskets. The smoke smelled like exhaust. big time.

    What are the symptoms of head gasket failure, i need ur help guys, big time. if you think these may be caused by other things, lemme know... thank you in advance

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Lake County, Florida
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    870
    There is smoke coming out the dipstick tube? Is there and white smoke coming out the exhaust? Is there a mikly white substance on the under of oil cap? Smoke and elevated oil level is usually a tell tale sign of a blown HG.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    141

    ****...

    Quote Originally Posted by unclenick
    There is smoke coming out the dipstick tube? Is there and white smoke coming out the exhaust? Is there a mikly white substance on the under of oil cap? Smoke and elevated oil level is usually a tell tale sign of a blown HG.
    yeah, smoke out of the exhaust and milky white crud under the cap.... whats a head gasket job worth?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Lake County, Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by PjsBird
    yeah, smoke out of the exhaust and milky white crud under the cap.... whats a head gasket job worth?
    To have a shop do the job, around $1000-1500.

    Do it yourself, cost in parts and machine work about $300. Not to hard to do.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    141
    Quote Originally Posted by unclenick
    To have a shop do the job, around $1000-1500.

    Do it yourself, cost in parts and machine work about $300. Not to hard to do.
    is that US or canadian?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Lake County, Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by PjsBird
    is that US or canadian?

    $$$$$$$$$$ USD $$$$$$$$$$$$$$

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Long Island, NY
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    160

    if your oil level is high

    stop running the motor, cause your oil pump could suck antifreeze and screw up bearings and other parts.

    -Matt

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    141

    work

    how much work is involved in the headgasket swap. Keep in mind, i do know how to use a torque wrench...lol, im just curious how long it may take me, and what kind of tools i may need, and how much stuff do i need to take of the top of the motor? Thanks again in advance....

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    5,755
    Quote Originally Posted by PjsBird
    how much work is involved in the headgasket swap. Keep in mind, i do know how to use a torque wrench...lol, im just curious how long it may take me, and what kind of tools i may need, and how much stuff do i need to take of the top of the motor? Thanks again in advance....
    I spent about 56 hours on the whole job; I'd never make it as a professional mechanic That included dissassembly, cleaning, reassembly, trouble shooting and uncooperative weather.
    Everything has to come off the top, front, and back of the engine. Incuding the intake, throttle body, SC, IC tubes, IC, intake plenum, fuel rail, manifolds, alternator, PSP bracket. You can tie the power steering pump out of the way. Water pump stays put. You can leave the compressor in place if its working, just support it with a piece of wood. Move all the wiring harnesses and hoses out of the way to get to bolts on that side. Removing the wipers, cowling and wiper motor will make it a lot easier to get to all the stuff on the back side.
    Tools needed.. 1/2" drive tools: breaker bar, 2" extension, 15mm 6sided shallow and deep sockets, torque wrench. 3/8" drive tools: general set of tools. A set of ratcheting wrenchs really help.
    I can give a more detailed description of what I did and where the time went if anyone needs it; it was the lengthiest repair job I've done so far, and probably the most tedious, but still no broken or rounded bolts.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    141

    description

    a detailed description would be awesome, but there is no rush, itll probably be a few weeks from now....

  11. #11
    A $20 Chiltons repair manual would be a very wise investment on your part at this point. Gives you time to study the job before you jump in, plus you have something in your hand to reffer to during the job instead of running to the computer every 30 minutes or so.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    141

    bottom end

    Quote Originally Posted by MIKE 38sc
    A $20 Chiltons repair manual would be a very wise investment on your part at this point. Gives you time to study the job before you jump in, plus you have something in your hand to reffer to during the job instead of running to the computer every 30 minutes or so.
    is it true that after doing headgaskets, the bottom end fails shortly after? my mechanic ( a trusted friend) said he would do the work, but no warranty because there was a good chance my bottom end would give out soon after changing the gasket.... was he just talking out his ***, or is this somewhat valid?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Oviedo, Fl.
    Posts
    765
    Did mine when the 93 had 120000, was still running strong at 217000 when it got totaled. So they don't normally go hand in hand. Just don't run the car any more than nesessary to get it into a garage to work on. If you can, drain the remaining antifreeze out of the block and drain the oil. Replace with a cheap brand of oil until you can change the gaskets.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Carmel, NY
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    water in the oil is no good for the bottom of the motor, obviously. Water makes things rust, ect. Water is denser than oil however, and you can drain the pan, and get the water out first, and then recap the drain when you start seeing oil. As long as you didn't run it too long, and didn't let it sit with water in it for too long i feel it shouldn't have nagative affects on the bottom of the motor, but thats only if it isn'tfor long time exposures.

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