Will a stock LUK clutch hold? Or Upgrage...

9

91BLOWNSC

Registered User
I did some carious searching on this forum about differnt clutches and it seems people have all different opinions about them. I am replacing the one in my 95 5-speed and I have the modifications listed in my signature, along with a couple others I will be adding possibly through summer.
My question is, would a stock replacement LUK clutch hold up and grip well enough for that power? It has never slipped before, but I do have not-so-good tires on it so there wasn't much strain on the stock clutch. Or do you guys recommend a spec stage 2? Or a centerforce? I have no idea what to go with. I'm trying to get a general consensus on this topic. Any help is appreciated.
Also if someone has a few different options on where to buy them, if you could post them out that would help out. Thanks!

Edit: I also plan on using DR's this summer. So that might be a factor also.
 
I have the SPEC Stage 2 clutch and I'm very happy with it. Not the best clutch to have when learning to drive stick as it is very touchy (I know from experience :D), but it grips very well on my car. My mods are in my signature so you can compare them to your car. I'm sure you'll get a lot of responses on this.

Damien
 
I've been running the same Luk clutch for 5 years, it was on the car when I bought it. Last year the car dynoed at 350 rwhp. It's fastest 1/4 mile so far was 12.45, and it pulls about a 1.65 60 ft.. It hasn't slipped so far and I'm planning to just replace the disk and keep the same pressure plate for this season.
 
Thanks.

Thanks for both the responses.

My next question is can either of you tell me where you bought them from? I mean assuming the LUK is cheaper, I see no reason not to purchase the one thats less expensive. I assumed the Stage 2 SPEC would hold, but if the LUK can hold 350 rwhp, I wont' be anywhere near that anytime soon, if ever. How much should I be looking to pay for either/or. Thanks.
 
I just replaced the clutch and slave cylinder in my 94 with an OEM LUK clutch. I bought the entire kit that consisted of the friction disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bearing from Dial-A-Clutch. If you search under the "Original Clutches" button at the top, you will find the entire kit plus slave cylinder for under $250. I already had a slave cylinder and you might not need one, but I called them and I got the kit without the cylinder for $193 shipped. Great service on the phone and the clutch arrived at my door 3 days later.
 
hmm....

I went to specs website and they want 359 dollars for a stage 2. Isn't that a little pricey, or is that just about what everyones paid? I just wish someone what the LUK could actually stand up to. 350 RWHP is a lot more than I will ever put it through, but I am wonderig if that is just a special case.
 
About to chagne my clutch and im looking to replace it with a stock luk, but hey, RustyUL, i checked that website and it lists the clutch for a 94 for $246 and not for 193 shipped like you said. (and a slave cylinder for $89). Does anybody know where i can get it for cheaper? For $246 its only a few bux less than getting that Spec Stage 1. On that note, how is the stage 1 compare to the LUK stocker? Thnx!
 
#1 - if money isn't your deciding factor, I'd consider putting an aluminum flywheel in at the time you do the clutch. There are a few out there.

#2 - LUK has gotten favorable reports from many. LUK is not available with a lightened pressure plate. Spec is.

That said, I have the Spec stage II sitting waiting to be installed with the lightweight flywheel. I got a good deal on the parts through someone on this site. Search on SPEC in the for-sale forum and you'll find a couple guys selling SPEC clutches at or below dealer cost. I haven't weighed it yet, but the lightened pressure plate can't be too much lighter (that's what I ordered). But ever little bit can't hurt I guess.

Note the Spec kit isn't available with the slave cylinder, and it's always recommended to replace the slave when replacing a clutch. (who wants to dick with a failed internal slave cylinder when the clutch is still good?)
 
Im going to have to retract my self here. UPon closer inspection I noticed that in dial-a-clutch the price for 246 does include slave cylinder, just as RustyUL mentioned. From their site:
Part No:07-091S
Supercharged. Clutch Includes Internal Slave Cylinder.

That kind of made up my mind. I was thinking that if both kits where close to 250 w/o slave cylinder then i'd go with the spec stage 1...but since the LUK includes slave cylinder ill go with that one for now. At a later time ill upgrade to a spec clutch and lightened flywheel. I also started reading on flywheels but aluminum ones go for well over $300, which i dont have at the moment.
 
IMO, unless your trying to break coy millers record, you dont need all of that stuff. For just a fun toy that you race occasionally I would stay with the stock clutch. The stock clutch is very reliable and more importantly very driveable. The clutches like the spec and so on lock up REAL fast and take a lot of getting used to. You either spin your tires, stall the car, or take off like a shot, there is no middle ground. As to the lighter PP and flywheel, you wont notice it and it is a significant amount of money for no noticeable gain. I am sure that the hard core racers might lose a tenth or so but that really isnt that important to those of us who dont race our cars often. I dont remember my tire size off hand (275 somthing 17s on the rear) but they have a 11.5 inch tread section on them, and no clutch slippage as of yet and we have the same car and pretty much the same setup ( I have a touch more I think).
Dan
 
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