Switching ABS to Conventional.

did mine with engine out

Did mine when I had my engine out and glad I did.. The booster was a Dikkkk but I am glad the engine was out when I put it in... I spent about 70 bucks and got all new stuff. Cant remember the part numbers or I would post them... The only thing I had to get from the junk yard was the resivoir.... I like em!!!!!!!!! The wife hates them because she is used to her car... Fine with me... she doesnt drive mine!! LOL
 
On the crown vic master cylinder there is a round block that the rear brake line attaches to, is that a proportioning valve? If so, did you guys use this valve along with the SC proportioning valve that is located on the car rail? I am at a stand still on my conversion. My first thought was to try to gut the crown vic proportioning valve and use stock valve. I looked up the specs for the both proportioning valves and they as follows:

89 Thunderbird split/slope = 500/.43
89 Crown Vic split/slope = 300/.40

Not knowing exactly what these values mean other than I know the proportioning valve limits the brake pressure to the back brakes at some set pressure. There is a diffence between the two sets of numbers, what is the correct thing to do here?

Help!
 
FYI
I have decided to gut the crown vic proportioning valve and use the SC proportioning valve. To me this would keep the SC front to rear braking specs.
Mike
 
Mk4?

Is it possible to ditch the early Teves Mk2 system and just replace it with a later Teves Mk4 from a '95 SC? Would the computer, wires, etc. still match up?
 
LoneStarSC said:
Is it possible to ditch the early Teves Mk2 system and just replace it with a later Teves Mk4 from a '95 SC? Would the computer, wires, etc. still match up?


I had this idea when I parted out my 93, was curious if I could use the system on y 90, but it would involve removing all of the wiring, and the ABS computer, etc. Maybe I was just too lazy, but I thnk you;d have to disassemble the whole dang car to do it...

If you end up doing it, let me know... My parts car is gone to the big salvage yard in the sky now, but waaaay down the road, when I restore the 35th completely, I'd probably do it...
 
we took ours completely to the frame

sizemoremk said:
I had this idea when I parted out my 93, was curious if I could use the system on y 90, but it would involve removing all of the wiring, and the ABS computer, etc. Maybe I was just too lazy, but I thnk you;d have to disassemble the whole dang car to do it...

every thing has been seperated. w/frame two could lift to the curb. Its a ninety too. all the stuff is on my hard drive, pictured, and you would just install the 93 wires in the the other. easy enough, since that way 93 parts would just bolt right in. It may take 2 to 3 weeks straight but you know it would work
 
Deimos said:
every thing has been seperated. w/frame two could lift to the curb. Its a ninety too. all the stuff is on my hard drive, pictured, and you would just install the 93 wires in the the other. easy enough, since that way 93 parts would just bolt right in. It may take 2 to 3 weeks straight but you know it would work

I am curious if the ABS computers and wiring are the same size or what???

There are a few minor differences in the 90 and 93...

If you have your car completely dissasembled, I want some pics!!! You should make a CD full of pics.... Ans sell them cheap ;)
 
It's a great thing...

You know, even though I don't have my Bird anymore, it's still very good to see everyone helping out to tackle what I think is one of the worst attributes of the SC. My 89 was down for about 4-5 mos because of that lousy ABS... After replacing 3 units and accumulators and still no resolution to my stiff brakes, I found out that something with the wiring wouldn't allow the pump to cut on.... I had to wire a switch to cut it on and off because those pumps burn out so easily... which made the functionality of my car useless... and I finally just bought another Bird because that ABS unit (that's also found in old SAABs) is a POS...

Way to go guys- Keep flying high!
 
Maybe I am a little slow, but I am still slightly confused as to how to hook up the lines, I have read through twice, and still no 100% positive.

Is it both front lines to the vicki block, then into the "front" fitting the vicki MC?

Then a single rear line into the rear fitting in the vicki MC?

Are these fittings also metric??? I may want a plug in stead of the unused pressure switch, or whatever it is... AM I lieky to find this at Autozone???

I ask becasue I'm gonna start this partcular job this weekend.

I figure with the dash out, it'll make things easier..... Gonna be putting it back in also.... It'll be a busy weekend.
 
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Switching ABS to Conventional

Super XR7, I used the Crown Vic proportioning valve. You're definitely one up on me with the specs on the two valves. Where did you even find that info? My car worked fine till a couple weeks ago, when the head gaskets blew. ( I'm in deep mourning now)

Sizemoremk, you have the lines figured out. The front line goes to where there are 2 lines coming off the proportioning block (hence, 2 holes, 2 separate lines to the front wheels). The single rear line, from the master cylinder, goes to the single rear line to the rear of the car. If you look way back, at the photos I posted, you will see that the plug I used for the switch, is the switch itself, with the wires snipped a couple inches up.

( The love of my life is now dead, sniff, sniff, so I won't be frequenting this site much any longer.) Looks like you guys got it all figured out now, anyway. John V.O.
 
jvo said:
Super XR7, I used the Crown Vic proportioning valve. You're definitely one up on me with the specs on the two valves. Where did you even find that info? My car worked fine till a couple weeks ago, when the head gaskets blew. ( I'm in deep mourning now)

Sizemoremk, you have the lines figured out. The front line goes to where there are 2 lines coming off the proportioning block (hence, 2 holes, 2 separate lines to the front wheels). The single rear line, from the master cylinder, goes to the single rear line to the rear of the car. If you look way back, at the photos I posted, you will see that the plug I used for the switch, is the switch itself, with the wires snipped a couple inches up.

( The love of my life is now dead, sniff, sniff, so I won't be frequenting this site much any longer.) Looks like you guys got it all figured out now, anyway. John V.O.

Sorry to hear about your head gaskets, I got the info from the Ford Specification book. Not really sure what is means, though.
Mike
 
Quick question, do ya'll have a brake bleeder in one side of the master cylinder???

I got my setup from a guy here on the board, and this one is suppose to be the vicki one, but this one has an extra fitting on the side oppisite the line fittings. The fitting on the opposite side (driver side) has a brake bleeder in it...

Does ya'll have this?

Also, is the vivki "block" a proportioning valve, or simply a "t" block?

If you could run outside and check, I'll owe you a beer or six :D



Thanks guys!!!!
 
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Ok, I give up, how in the blue hell do you get the booster to fit in there???

I don't see it hapening, I can get it close, but the rod is above the hole.

I had to quit before I broke something, and I guess it was a good time to hose everything off, to get rid of the brake fluid anyways....

How did ya fit it in there??? Am i to assume the cowling has to come off???

If so, that is not good, the wipers won't move without power, I guess I'll have to see i I can disconnect them at the bottom, and then remove...

I'll be glad to do the step by step, as soon as I get it figured out... There is also a couple more electrical connections I was not aware of...

Thanks!

Thanks!
 
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LOL yep

I got mine in with the engine out... So with the engine in I have no clue.. I did push the linkage all the way in and got mine to wiggle in there. Then found out I had to drill out one of the holes so it would fit. I then after getting the brakes bled adjusted the M/C to get my peddle height.. I have pics if you want me to send.... Just shoot me your email address to anthonyarnold2004@direcway.com
 
ScrapSC said:
I got mine in with the engine out... So with the engine in I have no clue.. I did push the linkage all the way in and got mine to wiggle in there. Then found out I had to drill out one of the holes so it would fit. I then after getting the brakes bled adjusted the M/C to get my peddle height.. I have pics if you want me to send.... Just shoot me your email address to anthonyarnold2004@direcway.com

Thanks, but I got the booster in, and now I am trying to get the lines all bent up, my bender is too big, so I forced myself to wait until I can grab a smaller one....

Thanks alot!

On the extra fitting on the driver side of the MC, there was also one on the vicki in the junkyard; so I do have the correct one. I was missing the vicki "block" so I had to go grab one. The block I had was an aftermarket "T", not the vicki block.

I still need to know if this is just a plain "T" or is it a proportioning valve? Or particularly, does it matter which side is to the booster, and which ones are split of to the calipers.

Thanks guys!
 
Ok guys, I'm pretty sure I'm all done with this, but I have a question about the lone connector that ya'll plugged into the Vick master cylinder.

From the picture I seen, and the wires on mine, the wires appear to be black, brown/white, and purple/white.

Did you have to disconnect that connector from another connector? I am assuming so, as that was the only one I coudl find that looks identical, and fits....

Thanks!

Also, has anyone used any flexible stainless brake lines? Is this something that I can get made in short lengths as I want?

My installation looks pretty much like azz, but I will be making it nice and neat when I yank the motor and such...
 
Hey guys, I've been driving the car around for a week with this mod, and the car stops fine, but the pedal is low!

I've adjusted the plunger that goes from the booster into the master cylinder, but it is as far out as it wil go.

The pedal is low, and you can feel a little braking when you first step on the pedal, but it doesn't really grab good until you get closer to the bottom.

The pedal seems light until you get closer to the bottom as well.

It doesn't feel spongy like there is air in the lines, its kinda hard to explain...
I bled the system for quite awhile; I used the clear line in the coke bottle method so that the end of the line was submerged in fluid as my ole lady pumped the brakes until there was no more bubbles comming out.


I have also done the spindle swap and installed the PBR from the 99 Mustang and some new rotors... They were new by the way.

It occasionally seems like it pulls to the left a tad when braking hard, but my expedition seemed to do that for a week or so after I installed new pads on it as well... What could casue that???

Anyhow, i was hoping someone may have some ideas.

Thanks alot guys!
 
Guys I got a quick question, the brake line that runs along the firewall... where does that line lead to, the back brakes OR the passenger side brake?

edit: I jack the car up and seen I have the wrong line going to the wrong place.... I had the passeneger side brake line on the back port of the MC, and the back brake line is suppose to be there... well will that cuase my brake pedal to go to the floor?

Ive been to hell and back trying to sort out my brake problems. Ive put in the 89/90 booster and the crown vic MC but in the process i broke all 3 lines so I had to buy a new line and flare 2 of the lines... when everythin was together I bleed the brakes and 2 of the lines were leaking, so I had to reflare the lines, buy another line (wrong line) and bleed the brakes. bleed the back brakes fine, got to the front brakes and stripped BOTH bleeder screws. So I went to the junkyard and bought 2 new calipers. Finally bleed the brakes. started the car and tested the brakes, and it goes all the way to the floor, turns out I had a bad booster (1 of the studs broke and was causing a leak). I replaced the booster and still the brakes go to the floor (but this time no hissing sound). So I think I have my lines ran wrong, HOPEFULLY..... This is going on a month of 2 now... good thing i gotta another car :D
 
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yep, Again...

Hi,

I looked thru this very excellent thread for the umpteenth time, and I don't see a picture of Exactly Where And How the Vaccum Line From the Booster is attached "between the inlet plenum and Throttlebody".
Maybe its obvious when I actually do the work?
Can any of you guys help?
I am doing this conversion to my car very son, as I have been driving it with a DEAD ABS unit, and fear I will soon push the ABS Master completely off the firewall with all the pressure I've had to put on the brake pedal to stop the car...
also, where can i find a tube bender which will work for bending these brake lines as they are in the engine compartment?
Thanks for having all this info!:)

paul
 
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