!~Transmission Coolers~!

SilverCasket

Registered User
Anyway. .. The drama continues. .. There's lots of info online already. But here are some finds I've located. ...

Any opinion's on the following?

Derale Cooler 30,000 lbs

Coper Racing Trans Cooler 28,000 Lbs

Or the one at the bottom of this page

Advanced Design's Trans Cooler 28,000 lbs


I've got to stop the bleeding at some point with this car. .. Just cost me over almost a grand from Lentech to get anthoer hardened input shaft & supposedly a stronger drum. ... The stage 1 shaft EXPLODED in there & took out some components with it. .. So, take a look above & let me know your thoughts. .. And some suggestions of your own as well.

Anthony
 
Here is the perfect cooler.
I hope you decided to put a 1 piece input shaft in this time.
:)
I am not a fan of direct drive shafts no matter how expensive they are they are still a long thin shaft.
Alan
 
If I'm not mistaken, that's what Lentech put in. A Hardened 1-piece input shaft on their Street Term Plus. .... Still Blew It Up! No Clue. .... But, I could be wrong.

And Damn. .. 40,000lbs ... That does sound like an attraction. I've never heard of the company though... But if it does cool that well, then I'll bet it's what I need.

Anthony
 
I'm happy with my 18000 GVW TRU-COOLs. I think that the 40000 GVW model is overkill. It may make the transmission run too cold, is too big to easily install in an SC, and is more expensive.
 
Anthony
Hows the oil pump on your transmission if it not been replaced it might be the problem not moving the oil it needs to be.
Just an idea.
 
If you are using a non lockup, and a 3,000 rpm or above stall converter, you can use that 40,000 gvw cooler, and still want more. I have (2) 24,000 B&M coolers, and still see some higher trans temps than I like. In 90 degree heat yesterday on the Hot Rod Power Tour in the hills around Nashville mine got to 210-220 for a longer time than I would of liked. High stall and non-lockup really generates the heat.
 
With a big tube & fin, I'm hitting 210+ after any ride that's more than 30 minutes. Hard or soft. .. Stall is about 2600. .. I know someone else here with a similar setup uses the 2 24000 B&M's as well & it runs well. .. I'm digging the 40k GVW in 1 cooler setup & have plenty of room for it. But I'm wonder whether they really are true to the ratings. If so, then I'm hoping it works out good.

Anthony
 
392Bird said:
If you are using a non lockup, and a 3,000 rpm or above stall converter, you can use that 40,000 gvw cooler, and still want more. I have (2) 24,000 B&M coolers, and still see some higher trans temps than I like. In 90 degree heat yesterday on the Hot Rod Power Tour in the hills around Nashville mine got to 210-220 for a longer time than I would of liked. High stall and non-lockup really generates the heat.
I saw similar temps with my Setrab CP 920 cooler, although I never saw anything above 210 and if I dropped to 70 mph, the temp would start dropping. I know, at least in my case, that a little additional ducting to and from the cooler location in my fender would fix the problem. I couldn't find a picture, but you can see one in this PDF. I don't see anything on their site that lists GVW's of their coolers, but I know I've been very happy.

I'm sure the 40,000 GVW cooler will work well, it just depends on where you mount it.

Here's a place selling the exact cooler I have, 920FP8. http://www.bakerprecision.com/setrab1.htm
 
Last edited:
Well, I've done it. Picked up the 40k GVW .. If this doesn't work, I don't know what will .. But at any rate, I'm also going to take a look at the pump. Could be, but I would hope that isn't the problem. .. Check into that today. Just hope they ship this Cooler soon. Like to be up & @ the track next week.

Long Tru- Cool LPD Transmission Cooler- 40,000 GVW (4739)
TRU-COOL LPD ® LOW PRESSURE DROP OIL COOLERS offer 15 Times Less Flow Restriction and 30% More Cooling. TRU-COOL LPD Outperforms all other coolers. Compared to conventional tube and fin oil coolers, TRU-COOL's LPD patented stacked plate design offers the lowest flow restriction and the greatest heat transfer in the smallest possible package. Self regulating for maximum lube flow protection through cold start-up, varied temperatures and driving conditions, heavy loads and towing. Durable brazed aluminum construction and a lifetime warranty makes TRU-COOL the best choice for any application. This is the same cooler that many OEM's use on new vehicles. (Includes installation kit). Measures 8 1/2x 23x 1 1/4 thick. Perfect for trucks that do heavy hauling.

Anthony
 
SilverCasket said:
Well, I've done it. Picked up the 40k GVW .. If this doesn't work, I don't know what will .. But at any rate, I'm also going to take a look at the pump. Could be, but I would hope that isn't the problem. .. Check into that today. Just hope they ship this Cooler soon. Like to be up & @ the track next week.



Anthony

Anthony,

If you can find a place to mount it, I think that one will do the job nicely. The stacked plate design is much more efficient than the tube and fin.

David
 
.. Ok now. ... The cooler's on order. The new stuff is on it's way from Canada. ... .

Now, when it goes together, I was told that using Synthetic will also make a world of difference in temps? ..

Anyone have input on Synthetic vs. conventional.

Anthony
 
I run synthetic in my new lentech.TWO coolers one with a
fan.Did one burn out at St LOUIS WFC and got thrown out
of the show.Did two manual shifts with OD locked out ,shifted
at 4200 RPMs.Babyed this worthless AOD for 1700 miles.Now it slips.

I pulled out of the shop.It slipped for about 50 feet.worked
perfect when I parked it.Backed back into the shop.Check
the fluild level,checked the tv ajustment.check the pressure
port,everthing was perfect.Fired it back up.And this
wothless peice off **** shifts and works perfect again.

Do yourself a favor,pull the AOD and throw the worthless peice
of**** in the weeds.

Have I ever told ya, I hate auto trannys with a OD.
Number 5 coming up.NOT!!!

RANDY
 
Last edited:
I just hate autos in general, especially the modern ones. They're getting too cute and fragile. My wife has had transmission troubles twice in her Acura TL-S including a new transmission under warrantee at 28,000 miles. Usually, they're a pain in the ***. The old mechanical Ford C6 I had in my 70 Bird with the full power 429 never got touched in 220,000 miles. I try to go stick whenever I can.

Jon
 
Randy N Connie said:
I run synthetic in my new lentech.TWO coolers one with a
fan.Did one burn out at St LOUIS WFC and got thrown out
of the show.Did two manual shifts with OD locked out ,shifted
at 4200 RPMs.Babyed this worthless AOD for 1700 miles.Now it slips.

I pulled out of the shop.It slipped for about 50 feet.worked
perfect when I parked it.Backed back into the shop.Check
the fluild level,checked the tv ajustment.check the pressure
port,everthing was perfect.Fired it back up.And this
wothless peice off **** shifts and works perfect again.

Do yourself a favor,pull the AOD and throw the worthless peice
of**** in the weeds.

Have I ever told ya, I hate auto trannys with a OD.
Number 5 coming up.NOT!!!

RANDY

OMG man I'm sorry about your luck. If it makes you feel any better I hate these tranny's too. I think I'd rather have a c4 :rolleyes:
 
jonroe said:
I just hate autos in general, especially the modern ones. They're getting too cute and fragile. My wife has had transmission troubles twice in her Acura TL-S including a new transmission under warrantee at 28,000 miles. Usually, they're a pain in the ***. The old mechanical Ford C6 I had in my 70 Bird with the full power 429 never got touched in 220,000 miles. I try to go stick whenever I can.

Jon


Thats comparing apples to raisins. C6's were bulletproof but they weigh too much to be the best option for us. Acura tranny's are just FWD crap like all the rest. There are no good FWD transmissions. The best was probably the old riviera 425 unit.
Alan
 
SilverCasket said:
Ok. Back to the original question? ~ ! :eek:

Anthony,

I have no idea...I just use the standard Mercon Dextron stinky red stuff. The AOD is the least of my worries...I beat on that thing constantly and it's like a Timex that just keeps on ticking.

The only gripe I've got about the Lentech AOD in the turbo car is that with stock rear end gears, the shift points are higher (mph) than I would like. It doesn't shift into OD until about 65 mph. And the cast pan is difficult to seal (needs a thicker rubber gasket).

David
 
Dave. Talk about when you use the OD Delete button? Is every stop it's on delete & only take out once at highway speeds? Or can you cruise without the delete on & as long as you don't shift into OD with power, then your OK?

I'm confused how I blew it apart.
ANthony
 
SilverCasket said:
Dave. Talk about when you use the OD Delete button? Is every stop it's on delete & only take out once at highway speeds? Or can you cruise without the delete on & as long as you don't shift into OD with power, then your OK?

I'm confused how I blew it apart.
ANthony

Anthony,

Since my car doesn't shift into OD until about 50 mph at light throttle, I only use the OD delete switch when racing or on the dyno. Occasionally I'll manually shift the gears for a little fun, but usually I just put the lever in the OD position and let it shift itself.

I don't have any problems with my OD band because I very seldom get on the throttle hard in overdrive. If I'm going to run it hard at highway speeds most of the time I'll delete OD to downshift it to third, but sometimes (if I want to bark the tires) I'll just nail the throttle and after it downshifts to 3rd I flip the OD delete switch so it won't upshift.

I can get up to about 130 in third before hitting the rev limiter, so that's plenty fast for me.

David
 
Back
Top