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Thread: Pulley and Snout Seal Replacement

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    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Latitude: 41.909147 Longitude: -72.450263

    Pulley and Snout Seal Replacement

    Blower Nose Seal Replacement / Pulley Replacement

    The purpose of this procedure is to guide you through replacing the M90 Eaton blower pulley and Snout Nose Seal on a 1989, 90 Thunderbird Super Coupe or Mercury XR7 with a 3.8L v6 Super Charged Motor (other years may or may not apply). The parts and tools listed below could be substituted with similar items but if you plan on doing it the way specified I suggest that you do NOT substitute the puller for any size larger then specified.

    1.A Three Jaw Five Inch Gear/Pulley Puller with the pivot points located in the middle. The pullers fingers, drive bolt and diameter should be no more then five inches..
    2.One 18mm socket with half inch drive.
    3.One long breaker bar half inch drive.
    4.One 2-3 inch ½ driver extension.
    5.One inch and an eighth boxed end wrench slightly offset.
    6.A small hammer and one nail about 3-4 inches long.
    7.Two small self tapping screws with the number two Philips Head.
    8.One flat head screw driver
    9.One number two Philips Head screwdriver.
    10.One thin wood shim about a sixteenth inch to and eights inch thick.
    11.A freezer.

    1.A replacement snout seal. One of the following will do. (These are Chicago Rawhide part numbers)
    Part Number 7965 (fair)
    Part Number 7966 (ok)
    Part Number 7967 (better)
    Part Number 7968 (best) and recommended for areas of high dirt and dust.

    NOTE: These seals are hard to find items at local part stores and if they can source them to a “National” part number you’ll be extremely lucky. You may have better luck getting the seal from a local Bearing/Seal reseller.

    2.Pulley (optional). The replacement of the pulley is your choice of the same size, 5% or 10% undersize. Undersize pulley are available for these blower on many performance auto parts locations on the web. Caution:Please insure you have modified your exhaust system adequately before going to an undersize pulley.
    3.Super Charger Belt (optional). You should be able to use the same belt with the same size pulley or 5% undersize. If your belt is worn or old I suggest you invest in the new rubber to drive you blower. It is recommended that you go to a smaller belt when doing the 10% undersize pulley and/or go to a slightly larger (and better) steel idler pulley.

    1.One can of Brake Part Cleaner.
    2.One can of penetrating fluid or wd40.
    3.A roll of paper towels.
    4.Some cotton swabs or cotton balls
    5.Super Charger Fluid.
    6.A small sandwich bag.
    7.Rubber Gloves (for your protection)


    Super Charger Belt Removal
    1.Attach an 18mm ½ drive socket and small extension to a two foot breaker bar.
    2.Attach the socket to the super changer idler pulley and rotate clockwise until you can slip the belt off the super changer pulley.
    3.Position the belt away from the super charger pulley so it does not bind when you release tension from the idler pulley.

    Super Changer Pulley Removal
    1.Make note of how many threads are showing on the end of the threaded area of the super charger before removing the 18mm nut.
    2.Spray the 18mm nut on the end of the super charger pulley with penetrating fluid and go for a bathroom break, have a beer, or smok’em if you got’em.
    3.There is a fixed 1 1/8 nut which is part of the super changer pulley. Position the boxed end wrench for leverage onto the nut. While standing on the left side of the car near the passenger headlight and holding the wrench in your left hand, using your right hand position the 18mm socket and breaker bar onto the supercharger front nut. Turn the nut counter clockwise (pull towards your chest) until it loosens. Remove the nut and set aside.
    4.Spray the front and rear of the super charger spindle around the pulley with penetrating fluid so to insure it penetrates the inside diameter of the keyed hole. Go for a bathroom break, have a beer, or smok’em if you got’em.
    5.Attach the three jawed pulley/gear puller and position it onto the pulley so that two of the jaws are just under the coolant outlet tube. Insure the draw blot is up against the super changer spindle bolt end. Tighten the draw bolt by hand with no leverage until all three jaws lips are snug around the rear outside pulley lip. Check the position of the puller to insure it’s just under the coolant tube and will not engage it as you back off the pulley.
    6.Using the super charger spindle bolt threads and a gage, using an appropriate leverage tool (boxed end wrench, adjustable wrench) slowly back off the pulley by turning the draw bolt on the puller clockwise. As the puller tightens, insure the pulley is moving towards the front rather then the lips of the pulley bending inward.

    Seal Removal (optional). If it’s leaking you should replace it.
    1.If necessary pump out some of the super changer fluid from the super charger. (most of the time this isn’t necessary)
    2.Wad up several sheets of paper towels and position them just below the super charger snout.
    3.Remove the retaining clip from the snout and set aside.
    4.Note: In this step once you slightly puncture the bearing seal with the nail, stop and do the other side the same way. Being careful not to damage the super charger bearings, using a hammer and long nail make a small hole at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions on the old seal of the super charger snout seal.
    5.Using two self tapping sheet metal screws, install the two screws and snug so they won’t pop out when prying.
    6.Using a pad (a thin wood shim works) and a prying device (flat head screw driver works) position the pad under the pry tool and on the face of the super charger snout outlet. Pry each screw evenly until the seal pops out.
    7.Being careful not to get any fluid on the plastic engine parts, clean the snout seal with brake fluid cleaner. Using swabs, cotton balls, and paper towels clean all residue out of the housing and repeat as necessary.
    8.Cover the snout with a plastic bag and tape if you plan to store for a long period.

    Seal Installation
    1.Using a plastic sandwich bag put the new seal in the bag and soak in a solution of lubricant (wd40 works). Put in a freezer for about an hour.
    2.Insure the snout is clean and not damaged.
    3.Install the seal with your fingers as far as it will go until it’s just past the retaining clip ring.
    i.If the seal will not go on using your fingers, get it started evenly and work it using the super charger pulley, 1 1/8 wrench 18mm nut. Mine only took a few turns of the nut to get it started.
    ii. Pull off the pulley with the pulley/gear puller and verify that it’s installed. You should now be able to work it past the retaining clip grove with either your fingers or a wooden dowel.
    4.Install the retaining clip so that it’s seated in the clip grove.

    Super Changer Pulley Installation
    1.Position the super charger pulley onto the spindle so the keyway grove aligns with the keyway and install by hand as far as it will go.
    2.Install the 18mm nut hand tight.
    3.Using the 1 1/8th inch boxed end wrench, 18mm socket, extention, and a long breaker bar tighten the 18mm nut until tight but no more then two treads show on the spindle threads.

    Super Charger Belt Installation
    1.Insure the belt is clean and free of cracks, rips or tears, and is the right size for the type of Super Changer pulley you’re going to use.
    NOTE: If a 10% Super Changer pulley was installed, either a smaller drive belt or larger idler pulley is required.
    2.Map the belt around the drive pulley and tension/idler pulley.
    3.Attach an 18mm ½ drive socket and a small extension to a two foot breaker bar.
    4.Attach the socket to the super changer idler pulley and rotate clockwise until you can slip the belt on the super changer pulley.
    5. Insure everything is tight and top off the super charger with fluid.
    6. Start the car and check for leaks.
    Last edited by rickbtbird; 07-03-2005 at 03:07 AM.

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