seawalkersee
Registered User
What does it cost to coat that stuff?
Chris
Chris
seawalkersee said:What does it cost to coat that stuff?
Chris
MIKE 38sc said:I like to.
MIKE 38sc said:No it does'nt flake off if you make sure the surface is properly preped.
Those guy's supply most of the big coatings applicators with there coatings.
Remove all your masking materials before bakeing, just be very carefull as the coatings are fragile until baked.
I've used that stuff on MX bike motors, go Kart motors and of course car engines, and it works great. Best to apply it with an airbrush but when it comes to big parts like headers and the external surface of turbo housings use a bigger touch up spray gun.
DamonSlowpokeBaumann said:If you check some old posts of mine I useed the complete swaintech line of coatings on my heads.
sizemoremk said:Is that not too slick for intake ports???
I thought they needed to be slightly textured for better turbulance???
One of these articels had soething about a 30degree vs 45 degree seat... The 30* flowed about 10+ CFM better at lower lifts. I take it this is something I want??? Is 30* standard on a "competition type" valve job?
I tried to unshroud my valves at about 30* also...
The mopar article has more to say about valve sizes also, bigger not necessarily better for the flow numbers. But then again flow numbers may not mean very much for velocity....
Mike 38sc, you once told me once to leave the stock intake valves the same, and go with slightly bigger exhaust valves. I assume this is because low lift might be affected? On the ex side does the the bigger exhaust valve reduce the "funnel shape" of the exhaust port, making the "entrance" and "exit" closer to the same size?
I am also curious now about the CC size now that I have unshrouded the valves, should I mill the heads a little more to make up for this? I am also curious about this "extra quench pad" you once spoke of as well. I am kinda tempted to try this out, will a mig welder warp the heads or cause the seats to fall out from that far off??? Should I try to add a small patch on the other side near the spark plug? Kinda behind the spark plug? Or is this too risky? I have access to a big mig welder (millermatic 251? I think) with an aluminum spool gun?
Also, found another coupla good head porting article I haven't seen yet....
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us110128.htm
http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95518/
http://moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/5118/
Thanks!
MIKE 38sc said:Whew!!!!!! You sure like to take big bites dont you? LOL!!!!!!
Bigger exhaust valves will help the SC engine since its constipated on that side.
DO NOT weld on your heads with a MIG welder PERIOD!!!!!!
DO NOT TIG weld on your heads unless you are properly setup to stress relieve the heads afterwards. You would need to remove the seats and guides before any welding was done then all of that stuff will need to be remachined to put it back where it needs to be. Welding moves stuff around and there's no way around it, thats why welded heads are expensive lots of work.
You need to CC the combustion chambers with a beret and idealy get them all at the same capacity. Once you know the capacity of the chambers you can then calculate how much to shave the heads to the desired compression ratio.
Are you starting to think that maybe you're wadeing to far from the shore?
Head porting is part black art and magic mixed together and no 2 sets of heads flow the same. Thats why race teams have several sets of heads and they match up which ones work best with the conditions they are being used for.
I gotta go get some more chicken bones and eyes of newt.
I'm outa here.
seawalkersee said:What is this extra quench pad you guys are talking about?
Chris
Randy N Connie said:You can buy a large syringe from a farm service store,to use as
a beret.You will also need a peice of plexiglass to cover chamber.
And drill a hole in center of plexiglass, the same size as end of syringe.
You will also need to CC the top of piston,on TDC.So you will
also need a dial indicator set in a bridge to go over piston..
If you buy these tools or make what you need. I will then give
the formula .So you will know how much to cc your heads,or
machine the deck of block or heads to come up with the compression
ratio you think you need.Your machinest should know how to do this.
RANDY
Randy N Connie said:Measure the combustion chamber CCs.Find the chamber with
the most CCs. Then match all of the smaller chambers as close
as you can to the largest cumbustion chamber.
I would not worry about lowering your compession a little.
From the back cut to unshroud the valves.Since this is a
blower motor you can make it up with a smaller blower pulley.
And where you made the back-cut for valve unshrouding.
Roud the cuts edges between the valve face and cut.
RANDY