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Thread: Rotor pack/gear plate swap how to...

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  1. #1
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    Question Rotor pack/gear plate swap how to...

    Well, it looks like I'll be swapping my rotor pack myself. I don't mind doing it, but hadn't planned on being the one to do it. As we all know, plans change. Anyhow, I am swapping late model coated rotors into my MPII. I have searched and found posts detailing similar swaps, but I feel they go into more detail and work than is needed for my situation (baking/freezing/pressing parts) and therefore I don't know which components of the process I need to follow and which ones are not necessary. I say this b/c I don't believe I need to replace any bearings/seals as my blower has only 75 miles on it since the MPII conversion/rebuild. SO, what I need to know is what do I have to do to merely swap the rotor pack/gear plate assembly? Do I need to replace any seals while doing this? (I'm working on a 75-mile old rebuild.)

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    It's easy if that's all you are doing. Just take the snout off then with a rubber mallet gently tap the rotors. (this is the inch or so that the snout but up against.) You just need to do it enough to loosen the rotors up enough to get them to pull out. Then slide in the new ones, bolt up the snout (don't forget to line up the coupler, otherwise it won't go together) and fill up with supercharger oil. That's it. You don't even have to pull the pulley off. I would seal up the mating surfaces with some rtv sealant, just to keep everything nice and tight. Be careful though on the rotor side so you don't get any of that rtv into to rotors...not that it would really damage the rotors, but it's just better to keep as much as you can out of the rotor/case. Easy job and shouldn't take more than about 30 minutes to complete.

  3. #3
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    No need to do anything except swap the rotor pack and put some sealer on the case,then bolt it back together. Probably a good idea to let it dry overnight before adding the oil.

    David

    PS: I'm sure Sam means 30 minutes after the blower is off the car.
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat...............707HP/650TQ

    My Garage

  4. #4
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    Loctite 518 to seal the rotor pack, I got it from Napa

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by super red91
    Loctite 518 to seal the rotor pack, I got it from Napa
    Seal the rotor pack? Do you mean the 1" thick gear plate attached to the front of the pack? Can't I just use Ford gasket maker? Takes about 8oz to refill the SC correct? One more thing, dare I reuse the oil? It only has 75 miles of use or so on it.

    P.S. David, luckily the SC is off the car.
    Last edited by pablon2; 02-23-2006 at 02:59 PM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by pablon2
    Seal the rotor pack? Do you mean the 1" thick gear plate attached to the front of the pack? Can't I just use Ford gasket maker? Takes about 8oz to refill the SC correct? One more thing, dare I reuse the oil? It only has 75 miles of use or so on it.

    P.S. David, luckily the SC is off the car.
    He's talking about sealing the plate of the rotor pack to the blower case on one side and sealing it to the oil filled snout on the other side. The side that seals to the snout isn't nearly as critical as the blower case side.

    To prevent excessive clearance on the ends of the rotors (inlet end), you must not use a sealer that is too thick. I use RTV and spread out in a very thin coat, but the loctite mentioned earlier would be better.

    I would also suggest test fitting the rotors before adding sealer and bolting it back together, to make sure the rotors turn freely. You will also want to recheck the rotors after bolting the blower together and especially after bolting down to the intake manifold to make sure it still turns freely.

    In some rare instances where the rotor tip to case clearance is very close (less than .002) the slight amount of case distortion from bolting the blower down to the intake manifold will cause the rotors to bind. If this happens it will be necessary to use shim stock between the blower mounting bosses and the blower case stacked in amounts necessary to remove the distortion.

    David
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat...............707HP/650TQ

    My Garage

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the quick responses. Any opinions on reusing the barely used SC oil?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Neibert
    PS: I'm sure Sam means 30 minutes after the blower is off the car.
    Yeah...just the rotor swap...add another 20 minutes or so if you have to pull the supercharger off and back on...(I've probably gotten it down to that quick as many times as I've pulled it off...)

  9. #9
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    power steering pump swap

    thinking about tackling my p/s swap .looks like im going to need to take off most of the front of the motor? any short cuts ? let me know thanks

  10. #10
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    Update

    Okay, here's the scoop. I got the rotor packs swapped and everything fits real nicely and is torqued to 25ft lbs. I have one question, there is a little play in the pulley. It seems to move about 3-5 degrees before the one pin in the gear engages the bent end of the coupler's spring. I am assuming there is only one way the spring will go in and allow everything to bolt together? I ask b/c the damn spring fell out when I removed the snout before I saw how it sits in the coupler. I'm hoping that what seems like an unreasonable amount of play is just the fact that there currently is no oil in the SC. (I'm letting it dry overnight with the top off and the fill plug out.) Can someone confirm this or do I have to remove the snout and reposition something? Thanks for the help today guys!
    Last edited by pablon2; 02-26-2006 at 02:30 AM.

  11. #11
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    Since i cannot see how you installed the spring,there is a method to check.Hold the rotor pack blades by the exit port of the blower.Then with your other hand turn the pulley clockwise,you should feel the resistance of the spring.It should turn about an inch or so then engage solidly against the rotors,but you must feel the spring tension.Like it would turn back itself.Check it out.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92strokedbird
    Since i cannot see how you installed the spring,there is a method to check.Hold the rotor pack blades by the exit port of the blower.Then with your other hand turn the pulley clockwise,you should feel the resistance of the spring.It should turn about an inch or so then engage solidly against the rotors,but you must feel the spring tension.Like it would turn back itself.Check it out.

    I get what you describe when I turn the pulley counterclockwise. Looking at what the rotors do when I turn the pulley in this direction suggests to me that the assembly turns counterclockwise as the rotors will be pushing air up and out. So, I feel tension and a springback action when I turn counterclockwise. When I turn it clockwise I just get a thud as it solidly hits the orange buffer-like piece, or at least this is what I imagine is occurring.

  13. #13
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    I can never tell which way those spring loaded couplers are supposed to go back together either, so I always replace them with a solid coupler like this one I got from Magnum Powers.

    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/attachme...3&d=1125253716

    David
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat...............707HP/650TQ

    My Garage

  14. #14
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    Here's a pic to help with my previous question. I wasn't sure on which side of the bent spring end I was supposed to put the one gear's pin. I looked at the wear marks on the orange pads and it suggested I should locate the pin to the LH side of the spring endpiece (red line in pic), but then after assembling it, I thought that maybe what seemed to be play was due to the fact that the pin should have ben installed to the RH side of the spring endpiece (green line in pic). Can someone confirm this? David, Wynn? I'll wait until I get confirmation b4 refilling with fluid.
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