Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 43

Thread: Rotor pack/gear plate swap how to...

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    St. Charles, MO
    Posts
    20,899
    When I had an MPII..I replaced the bare rotors with late model coated rotors and gained about 1.5-2.0 pounds of boost. With the MPIII I've got now I replaced the bare rotors with a set of ESM (High Speed Labs) coated rotors and also gained 1.5-2 pounds of boost.

    So I would expect Pablon to get similar results. BTW, I think he's also doing the right thing by reducing the amount of overdrive.

    David
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat...............707HP/650TQ

    My Garage

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    P-Town, MN
    Posts
    2,510
    Quote Originally Posted by super red91
    Since there seems to be lots of interest in the coated rotor swap I think I might make a how to. I am currently helping my friend put a 94/95 sc on his 89. I did some porting on the blower and bought a set gtp rotors to put in it. So since its all apart I can take pictures along the way and make a how to. Ive also put the gtp rotors in my MPII so I have a clue as to whats involved.

    That sounds like a great idea. Maybe could have "sticky" potential? You hit on a good point, with coated rotor packs becoming available without the entire blower, this mod will become more frequent and the process will result in FAQs.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    P-Town, MN
    Posts
    2,510
    Well, the snout is off and I'm working on the rotor pack now. I noticed the shaft that goes into the spring has three wear marks on it from the spring. Is that normal wear and tear? One other thing, there is a cast shroud around the early-style gears, but not the new style. Is this normal or am I missing something?
    Last edited by pablon2; 02-25-2006 at 01:50 PM.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    P-Town, MN
    Posts
    2,510
    Son-of-a-beaver!! Sometimes it seems like nothing goes easily the first time. I wondered why the parts wouldn't fit together nicely during my dry fit (thanks David for recommending the dry fit, it saved me here). I looked and noticed the freegin' alignment sleeves are in two different positions on the gear plate and the housing. So, I have to have the one that is wrong pressed out and placed in the correct spot. Or I may just machine the one hole to accept the sleeve and then add a sleeve to the plate's hole so it matches the existing machined hole in the housing. This wouldn't be a bad idea as it would then give me three sleeves. If not, would it hurt to not have a sleeve in a hole that was machined for it? I know that I sure the heck am not going to pound out the existing sleeve b/c I don't wanna compromise the mating surfaces. Damn, this gets me. Unless someone has a brilliant quick fix for this, I'll have to hand it over to my dad who is a tool and die maker/machinist. As has been the case with this rebuild...the saga continues.
    Last edited by pablon2; 02-25-2006 at 02:46 PM.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio
    Posts
    1,145
    The new rotors dont have the cast around the gears, dont know why but they just dont. Nothing to worry about.


    The one alignment pin needs to be moved into the lower position. Use a vice and a socket that is about the same size as the pin and put a larger socket on the other side to press is out. Clean out the new hole and put some oil in it so when you press in the pin it goes in smooth.

    We just finished putting my friends back together took pictures along the way, but the digital camera took a ~~~~ so we had to use a phone. Dont know how good the pics will come out but it should help.

    I did some porting on the blower inlet/outlet (94/95 style) added the coated rotors and it makes a tad over 15psi with a STOCK pulley. The car (89 sc) has an intake, 75mm tb, ported/welded plenum, raised top, double ic, and a full exhaust.
    Last edited by super red91; 02-25-2006 at 05:39 PM.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    P-Town, MN
    Posts
    2,510
    Quote Originally Posted by super red91
    The new rotors dont have the cast around the gears, dont know why but they just dont. Nothing to worry about.


    The one alignment pin needs to be moved into the lower position. Use a vice and a socket that is about the same size as the pin and put a larger socket on the other side to press is out. Clean out the new hole and put some oil in it so when you press in the pin it goes in smooth.

    We just finished putting my friends back together took pictures along the way, but the digital camera took a ~~~~ so we had to use a phone. Dont know how good the pics will come out but it should help.

    I did some porting on the blower inlet/outlet (94/95 style) added the coated rotors and it makes a tad over 15psi with a STOCK pulley. The car (89 sc) has an intake, 75mm tb, ported/welded plenum, raised top, double ic, and a full exhaust.
    Hey that's a great idea. I'll do it tonight and post my results for those interested. Looks like I'll have to find a socket whose OD is roughly 0.413"

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    oregon
    Posts
    461

    power steering pump swap

    thinking about tackling my p/s swap .looks like im going to need to take off most of the front of the motor? any short cuts ? let me know thanks

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    P-Town, MN
    Posts
    2,510

    Update

    Okay, here's the scoop. I got the rotor packs swapped and everything fits real nicely and is torqued to 25ft lbs. I have one question, there is a little play in the pulley. It seems to move about 3-5 degrees before the one pin in the gear engages the bent end of the coupler's spring. I am assuming there is only one way the spring will go in and allow everything to bolt together? I ask b/c the damn spring fell out when I removed the snout before I saw how it sits in the coupler. I'm hoping that what seems like an unreasonable amount of play is just the fact that there currently is no oil in the SC. (I'm letting it dry overnight with the top off and the fill plug out.) Can someone confirm this or do I have to remove the snout and reposition something? Thanks for the help today guys!
    Last edited by pablon2; 02-26-2006 at 02:30 AM.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    1,741
    Since i cannot see how you installed the spring,there is a method to check.Hold the rotor pack blades by the exit port of the blower.Then with your other hand turn the pulley clockwise,you should feel the resistance of the spring.It should turn about an inch or so then engage solidly against the rotors,but you must feel the spring tension.Like it would turn back itself.Check it out.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    P-Town, MN
    Posts
    2,510
    Here's a pic to help with my previous question. I wasn't sure on which side of the bent spring end I was supposed to put the one gear's pin. I looked at the wear marks on the orange pads and it suggested I should locate the pin to the LH side of the spring endpiece (red line in pic), but then after assembling it, I thought that maybe what seemed to be play was due to the fact that the pin should have ben installed to the RH side of the spring endpiece (green line in pic). Can someone confirm this? David, Wynn? I'll wait until I get confirmation b4 refilling with fluid.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    P-Town, MN
    Posts
    2,510
    Quote Originally Posted by 92strokedbird
    Since i cannot see how you installed the spring,there is a method to check.Hold the rotor pack blades by the exit port of the blower.Then with your other hand turn the pulley clockwise,you should feel the resistance of the spring.It should turn about an inch or so then engage solidly against the rotors,but you must feel the spring tension.Like it would turn back itself.Check it out.

    I get what you describe when I turn the pulley counterclockwise. Looking at what the rotors do when I turn the pulley in this direction suggests to me that the assembly turns counterclockwise as the rotors will be pushing air up and out. So, I feel tension and a springback action when I turn counterclockwise. When I turn it clockwise I just get a thud as it solidly hits the orange buffer-like piece, or at least this is what I imagine is occurring.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    St. Charles, MO
    Posts
    20,899
    I can never tell which way those spring loaded couplers are supposed to go back together either, so I always replace them with a solid coupler like this one I got from Magnum Powers.

    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/attachme...3&d=1125253716

    David
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat...............707HP/650TQ

    My Garage

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio
    Posts
    1,145
    It goes on the side with the green line. Stand the case up and put the coupler on the side with the rotor pack spring down, this way you can lower the snout and align it with the three holes and not worry about the spring falling out.
    Last edited by super red91; 02-26-2006 at 03:09 PM.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    P-Town, MN
    Posts
    2,510
    Quote Originally Posted by David Neibert
    I can never tell which way those spring loaded couplers are supposed to go back together either, so I always replace them with a solid coupler like this one I got from Magnum Powers.

    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/attachme...3&d=1125253716

    David

    I think I'm gonna get one like that, either from MP or Wynn. No spring at all with that type of set up, right? Question, how does the OEM coupler come off? Just pull on it? I didn't investigate this when I had the snout off, as I never planned on replacing it. On a side note, I think it is time to do away with the spring assembly anyway b/c I noticed wear grooves in the shaft from the spring.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    P-Town, MN
    Posts
    2,510
    Quote Originally Posted by super red91
    It goes on the side with the green line. Stand the case up and put the coupler on the side with the rotor pack spring down, this way you can lower the snout and align it with the three holes and not worry about the spring falling out.
    Thanks for your help.

Similar Threads

  1. My License Plate FELL OFF!
    By getblown in forum Non Technical Forum
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-04-2005, 08:07 AM
  2. relocated front plate
    By autowriteradam in forum Technical Forum
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 02-23-2004, 01:52 PM
  3. Engine Swap Questions
    By 85TbirdSC in forum Technical Forum
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 12-03-2003, 07:39 AM
  4. Loose P. plate bolts - Help!
    By MartianBob in forum Technical Forum
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-14-2003, 11:50 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •