90' T-Bird SC. Help me?

I forgot about that.....:rolleyes:

A dirty MAF wire is very easy DIY job.....

Get a can of carb. cleaner.....

Diconnect your MAF from the intake tube and spray the cleaner on the MAF wire......

Reassemble and test.....

Simple to do and worth a try.....
 
Thanks for posts. I'll reply to all of them at once.

I couldn't tell you where fuel pressure was checked, as it just got back from the mechanics today and they were the ones that did all that checking. All I heard was there were 2 stored fuel pump trouble codes, and I am getting fuel pressure. Remember I'm not really a car guy yet, so half of the stuff I say I couldn't explain. That's what I was told though.

Also the bucking can start anytime. Usually during acceleration, but taking your foot off the gas doesn't make it stop once it starts. Also in driving it home I noticed smoke from the exhaust. I don't know what that means exactly but I know it's not good.

This is the first I've heard about the MAF sensor, and I can try that. I don't think that would explain the smoke, but every step is one step closer I guess. I can definately try cleaning it, but does that sound like the main problem? It's very discouraging when a mechanic can't figure it out in 2 weeks.

He also left a drink on my trunk or something. There are brownish rust looking marks, one in a ring. Cleaning wax didn't take it off.. so that's just one more thing to stress about. I'm not working right now because I have less than 10 dollars to my name and absolutely no transportation or job prospects. It's looking pretty bleak.
 
getaddicted342 said:
Thanks for posts. I'll reply to all of them at once.

I couldn't tell you where fuel pressure was checked, as it just got back from the mechanics today and they were the ones that did all that checking. All I heard was there were 2 stored fuel pump trouble codes, and I am getting fuel pressure. Remember I'm not really a car guy yet, so half of the stuff I say I couldn't explain. That's what I was told though.

Also the bucking can start anytime. Usually during acceleration, but taking your foot off the gas doesn't make it stop once it starts. Also in driving it home I noticed smoke from the exhaust. I don't know what that means exactly but I know it's not good.

This is the first I've heard about the MAF sensor, and I can try that. I don't think that would explain the smoke, but every step is one step closer I guess. I can definately try cleaning it, but does that sound like the main problem? It's very discouraging when a mechanic can't figure it out in 2 weeks.

He also left a drink on my trunk or something. There are brownish rust looking marks, one in a ring. Cleaning wax didn't take it off.. so that's just one more thing to stress about. I'm not working right now because I have less than 10 dollars to my name and absolutely no transportation or job prospects. It's looking pretty bleak.

Color of smoke from exhaust?
 
It's premium in the tank. I don't know what the problem is.

I can say I'm closer than ever to getting rid of this pos though. I see the potential in it, I've grown to like it.. but I'm gonna have a heart attack. Everybody that says something has a different idea. Nobody answers questions directly. Everyone has a different part they think I should replace. I appreciate it. Really, but here is the situation.

I have less than 10 dollars to my name. That's in my wallet and in my bank account combined. It'll probably go to cigarettes. I have zero income. No job. No way to get to a job if I did have one. I bought this car from a dealership who seriously screwed me over apparently.. and now I'm stuck in very bad position of inexperience and frustration and over 3 thousand dollars of debt for a car that I can't drive.

More than anything I'd like to get this thing fixed and reliable, and I know that nobody can just snap their fingers and come up with the right answer.. otherwise I would have done so months ago. What it's coming down to is one of my worst nightmares. Trade in the bird for a crappy Honda and cut my losses that are already way way over my head.
 
Try disconnecting the MAF sensor and drive the car. It should run very well, but may not idle well. Let us know if that helps or makes it worse.
 
With MAF attached: Runs unreliably with shifts in power, clicks, all that jazz. The same old stuff. Feels like you could drive it, but also feels like it would die if I took it around the block. On top of the bucking thing making a possible appearance.

The bucking thing was more of a problem when it was the ONLY problem. At this point it feels like everything is failing that can fail. I haven't had the bucking problem in a good while because I haven't been able to keep the car running long enough.

WIth MAF detached: Barely runs at all. Fades in and out until the engine dies.

By the way the mechanic wanted 400 dollars to replace the fuel pump.. and he had no idea if that had anything to do with the problem. It's so difficult to hold in the flood of cursewords. I'll tell ya.
 
Like I said, it won't idle well, you will need to power brake it, but once you get it going it should run like never brfore if that is the problem.
 
Call this guy...
____________________________________________________________
Oklahoma
Shop Name: Jerry's Automotive
Shop Address: 117 W Main
Edmond, OK 73034
Shop Phone Number: 405-341-7551
Shop Website:

Mechanic Name: J R

Comments: I have known these people since the 80's. Shirley is the boss and mom to the mechanics there and they are great to work with. J R and his fellow mechanics have been the only mechanics to work on my SC since I have had it and they have worked on my past cars over the years, which were a Boss 302, Shelby GT 500, GT 350 H, SVO, among others. They can work on any make and model of car. If you don't know anyone personally who can help you with an SC in your area, I recommend Jerry's for excellent service and assistance.
__________________
Lance A. Morgan
______________________________________________________________
 
don't pay the 400 if he didn't fix it then he did do nothing. i sisters car would do that i am try to remember what the problem was i know its a sencer but i can't remember which one it is cause we took her car everywhere to get fix and replace alot of stuff but if didn't stop so my uncle bought it and with in a week it was running right so i have to ask him what it was so i get back to you on this tomorrow
 
You need to try replacing the plugs and wires? Always start with a full tune up when you buy a used car. No excuses.

Sometimes when you have bad plugs/wires it can cause your symptoms. Also try cleaning your MAF, the metal thing next to your air box. Try the easy stuff before you start throwing money at it.
 

I have a '90 T-Bird that had the same sort of problem you describe.

As I would drive along, the car would start this bucking bronco crap that felt like it was going to break the transmission. Very intermittent. Flooring it, or pulling it down a couple of gears to increase the RPM would of course lessen the jerking.

I pulled to the side of the road one day while it was doing its thing and wiggled the wire loom right beside the cam sensor. This is in the middle of the engine at the front, between the super charger nose, and DIS module. A couple of these wires go on down to the crank sensor, a couple go to the cam sensor, and several plug into the DIS module. Cam sensor is the little stubby thing that would be a distributor in a normal 3.8L or 4.0L V-6. It's tucked handily beneath the super charger pulley nose where it feels protected. So, when pulling on these wires, the engine started running smoothly again, and would run rough again with continued manipulation of the harness.

Since the cam sensor is easiest to change, that’s what I did first, and the car has not acted up in like a year since. I bought the cam sensor at the local Shucks for about $15 as I remember. Try this, should only take you 15 minutes as it is one plug, and 2 8-32 screws that hold it. Hope this helps.

Also, I had a 1991 SC that did a little bit of bucking once it was up to speed, and cruising along. Kind of a "mild" version of the above problem. But, this was a simple fix because the engine trouble codes indicated that it was a right side Oxygen sensor, and replacing it resolved the problem.

Bert Brown
 
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