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Thread: T56 Install

  1. #106
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    SE CT
    Posts
    696
    The trans is an LS1 configured t56 from a 2000 Camaro. The SC already has hydraulic clutch setup. More dependable than a cable (I've heard my buddies with cable clutches moan on and on about cables and quadrant levers.)

    The auto to stick conversion that I might do if I can scrape up the $$ for another t56 will be behind a BBF. I already have the pedal set and bell adapter. But ......that's a whole 'nother ball of wax.
    MikeH

  2. #107
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    4,842
    anyone have any tips on using a t56 from a viper i know the input shaft needs to be changed.

  3. #108
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    SE CT
    Posts
    696
    When going with the T-56 the differences are:
    Input shaft: spline #, shaft length, and pilot size
    Clutch adapter: aftermarket (flat plate), Ford, GM LT1/LS1/Vette, Dodge
    Body: mech or electronic speedo drive
    Tailshaft: spline#, housing type(GM LT/LS shifter mount is all the way back)
    Engine (Bell) adapter:Factory or aftermarket.
    Clutch throw-out type:cable/lever, (external) hyd/lever, hyd push(concentric slave)

    Hope this helps,
    MikeH

  4. #109
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Davenport, Iowa
    Posts
    21
    Looks like the GTO T-56 would be a good canidate. The shifter is positioned farther back compared to the f-body trans.

    Looks good so far!
    Jesse

  5. #110
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Davenport, Iowa
    Posts
    21

  6. #111
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    SE CT
    Posts
    696
    Wally88,
    Great pic. I think the GTO extension would put it waaay to far back. Right now, mine is only an inch~ forward of stock.
    MikeH

  7. #112
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Davenport, Iowa
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by talonhead View Post
    Wally88,
    Great pic. I think the GTO extension would put it waaay to far back. Right now, mine is only an inch~ forward of stock.
    MikeH
    I couldn't tell from the picture you had posted. I would think a bent handle would do the trick then.

    Carry on! LOL!

    Jesse

  8. #113
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    SE CT
    Posts
    696
    was looking at depth of pilot shaft into crank hub looks like I could use a
    0.025-0.375" spacer. also looking for a pilot bearing that will work.
    weather is pretty crappy....high wind and rain, flooding out my garage. Have to wait til it blows over.

  9. #114
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    SE CT
    Posts
    696

    driveline mods

    was looking at custom drive shaft info on-line. Came up with a TH350 slip yoke which is available in several series 10, 30,& 50 which match up with 1310,1330, 1350 series U-joints. And to mate up with the Ford diff flange yoke there are 2 bolt sizes: small 2.5"x2.5" for 7.5" and 8.8" diff's and large 3"x 3" for 8.8" diff's.
    The one on my SC is the small bolt pattern which uses a 1310 u-joint.
    QUESTION? Can the small pattern diff flange be swapped for the large pattern on our cars? I was looking at going with the 1350 series slip yoke and u-joint in front and upgrade to the large pattern and 1350 series in the rear so u-joint sizes are the same.
    Haven't done any diff work yet. Can you just take the pinon nut off, pull the flange of and install a new one? Or is it more involved?
    MikeH

  10. #115
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Forked River, NJ
    Posts
    2,092
    Quote Originally Posted by talonhead View Post
    QUESTION? Can the small pattern diff flange be swapped for the large pattern on our cars? I was looking at going with the 1350 series slip yoke and u-joint in front and upgrade to the large pattern and 1350 series in the rear so u-joint sizes are the same.
    Haven't done any diff work yet. Can you just take the pinon nut off, pull the flange of and install a new one? Or is it more involved?
    MikeH
    Yes, you can just swap the stock pinion flange for the larger one.

  11. #116
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    SE CT
    Posts
    696

    pilot bush/brg

    Found specs for the LS1 T56 pilot brg, and compared them to the M5R2 pilot brg.

    Ford: ID 0.672" OD 1.378" width 0.733"
    LS1: ID 0.600" OD 1.096" width 0.720"

    I figure I can get a sleeve made with the Ford OD and the ID to match the LS1 OD.

    As it looks now, I will need a spacer for the trans to set correct pilot depth as mentioned in previous post. This depth will be determined by pilot shaft and brg. Once this is set then determine slave shim height.

    MikeH

  12. #117
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Outside KC MO
    Posts
    5,790
    Why not use the bushing for the Ford and just have the ID cut to match the LS or mill the shaft?

    That way, you can use the Ford piece and it would probably be cheaper.

    SWS

  13. #118
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Forked River, NJ
    Posts
    2,092
    I'd check the pilot bushing used in the 5.0 that fits the T-56. It might fit the SC crankshaft. p/n Ford Racing M-7600-A.

    Never mind, it's for a .669 input shaft diameter.....
    Last edited by DLF; 03-20-2010 at 11:32 PM. Reason: add p/n

  14. #119
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    SE CT
    Posts
    696

    pilot brg sleeve...

    Local marine machine shop is going to hook me up with a hard bronze sleeve so I can use the GM pilot. Might have him make up a few to have as spares or whatever.
    MikeH

  15. #120
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    SE CT
    Posts
    696

    Large bolt pattern diff flange

    Just ordered one of these to start collecting all the hook-up stuff. when I order the driveshaft I'll spec the heavy duty 1350 hardware.

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford-Racing/39...oductId=761040
    MikeH

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