T56 Install

To bad.....

.......that the price for a re-man has gone through the roof! I've been looking for a decent used one, but they want more than I paid for my reman w/warrenty! (Hey, I need another for my BBF Bird project!:)
MikeH
 
Onward!

Got the driver's side x-mem mounting pad extension welded in today, after a few false starts with welding eqpt.--- welding hood battery DOA, finally found one at the 2nd Radio Shack I went to, No gas flow through MIG gun hose---disassemble/blow out/reassemble&*%)*&%ing wires to trigger pull out of mini spade connectors-go to welder repair shop at work and beg some new ones and install. Rough week and it's only Tues.! Thank God that Thurs. is a holiday!
Now if I can just keep from burning more holes in the floor pan (gotta remember--THAT STUFF's THIN! not to mention galvenized---YUK!
Glad I got a little smarter with age and wear a respirator now
MikeH
 
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A little further...But first...

The hunting report...Stayed up all night after work instead of napping then feeling like crap when I got up to go tree-rat hunting on Thur. Only got 1 rat, but saw a 4 and a 6 point deer both with good sized bodies.
o.k..... on the mod report.. napped for 3 hrs, then fit and welded the pass side x-mem extension (did I say that I hate welding on galvanized crap?)! Spatter took out both bulbs in my big portable flouresent light. Almost forgot to scrape the rubber crap on inside of floorboard...just a little smoke from a tack weld. (But if you're blind and can't trip over extinguisher in my garage.....you're outside!:D) I figure, since I do a lot of hot work in my garage (which is under my house) need to be able to combat that kind of casulty quickly. Better to have an extinguisher or 3 and not need them, than to need them and not have one.
Still need to clean up the welds, drill bolt holes, check for clip-nut fitment (may have to cut/weld floor pan above for clearence). When all welding is done, prep for paint. I plan on using an etching primer, and then paint and undercoat to protect where the galvanizing was damaged from grinding/welding.
This modification probaly could be done differently, but this how I am doing it. If someone has a better way.....Post It!
Will post more pics when I get more done,
MikeH
 
Kinda on hold just now..

Blew a plug out of the head in my truck last night, so that drops me down to one vehicle (out of 4) THIS SUX! Just as winter is coming and my garage is full!
MikeH
 
More progress (pics too)

Made some progress.dr side extended pad.jpg

hanger adapter.jpg

o-p shaft height.jpg

DSCF1065.jpg

Using an auto x-mem, the exhaust hanger w/adapter plate. The blue piece hanging down is marked in in. and cm. to measure output shaft center above x-mem (the m5r2 is just under 6") plus the x-mem to pad distance to come up with original height in relationship to the IRS pinion center.
MikeH
 
Whats up with the hole in the floor in the first pic?

SWS

The not round one is part of the slot for the clip nut, I'm going to fill part of that in. The ends are going to be trimmed and welded to the 2-bolt end plates (not shown).

QUOTE Slowpoke: Thats the factory shifter location? If so perfect!--------------------
No, it's about an inch forward of factory position. In Neutral it is up against the forward edge of the shifter box.
MikeH
 
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more done...

Fit-up is just about done. Need to de-rust the ends of the x-member where the paint lifted. When thats done, mask and prime. Then weld and prime/paint the xmem. Fill weld, grind and prime/paint inside/outside of floor pans and mounts.
I only get a few hours a week to work on her, so it's a little slow going.
MikeH
 
Update on install

Well, got the x-member welded,primed, painted and installed using 3 old bolts and isolators (misplaced a bolt). Had to go out in the melting snow, crawl under parts car to get the 2 slip-nuts(?) off the mounting pads and install them on the other car. Ordered 2 sets of isolators from Bill at SCP.
Now I can pull the engine block and trans for clutch fit.
MikeH
 

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nope.....

you modified a stang cross member?

It was an auto trans crossmember out of my parts car. The original one from the 5 spd car was modded, but didn't work out. Cut off the ends and welded the two hole flanges on the ends. Welded in mounting pad extensions and Viola, six speed fix!
Block and trans are out for clutch fit-up.
MikeH
 
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I may be a little late for the conversation but I would like to add my .02. Im running a stock T-5 out of an 88 stang Gt and am running it behind a 351C 5.8l. Had no issues yet but also dont dump the clutch At high RPMS. Im well over the 300torque rating and again no issues yet . so If the bell housing fits a T-5 would work. If it will fit behind my 351 beast.
 
confused

:confused:
I may be a little late for the conversation but I would like to add my .02. Im running a stock T-5 out of an 88 stang Gt and am running it behind a 351C 5.8l. Had no issues yet but also dont dump the clutch At high RPMS. Im well over the 300torque rating and again no issues yet . so If the bell housing fits a T-5 would work. If it will fit behind my 351 beast.

Are you asking if the t56 would work with a t-5 bellhousing? If so, no.
you would need the T56 bell-adapter (and that is specific as to which clutch adapter-LS, viper, mustang or aftermarket) that is fitted to trans case.
If your ? is about something else, please clarify.
MikeH
 
update

Got home from work last night feeling just kinda ...blah.. Went to the garage with absoulutly nothing in mind. Sat around for a little while, then kickred on the gas heater. Then pulled out the oxy/acet torch, the mig welder, some pipe and rebar scrap sitting in a bucket(this is about 2330). At about 0430 I looked at my watch as I was sitting in a spare bucket seat looking at the creation in the middle of the garage and went h*ly crap!!!
How time flies when the hands are busy.
Fabbed up a cradle out of all the junk to hold the trans verticle w/tailshaft down. Hoisted the block/crank/plate assy up and positioned on the trans.
Now I know why McLeod puts the 3/8" brass pilot bushing into this conversion kit---the splines are up in the crank hub where the pilot brg would normally be!
Took a carpenter crayon on a stick, shoved it in through the port in the bellhousing adapter to mark the input shaft depth. I think I am going to use a spacer ring between the belladapter and the trans to move the pilot to proper depth (side effect--shifter moves back!) Will need thick shim under the slave also. But this will alow the use of a pilot brg.
Took pics, haven't down-loaded them yet (I'm eating lunch @ work).
Received the 2 sets of isolators from Bill at SCP (ordered them last week) looks like they will do the job.
Take care all,
MikeH
 
more pics...

Starting fit-up of trans:
 

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