Driver's Window Repair and "Born On Date"

carlislesc

Registered User
It was killing me to know when my door panel was made so I had to remove. The born on date was 05-07-90 22.49 0858. Just kidding, I had to do the ole' window off the window regulator repair. Other posts were helpful so below I added some of my shade tree "experiences".

It was fixed by Ford 3 years ago with Epoxy 45 for $88.00. I actually found a dealer whilling to save me a buck. Now it was my turn. I used Motorcraft Clear Silicone Rubber TA-32.

It helped to remove the speaker - then I knew for sure the window was in the guide. Lowered window to point where could view plastic clips on regulator through access holes. Liberally applied glue to window and the 2regulator tabs (overkill?). Liberally applied grease, WD40 and motor oil to regulator channels and arms, window guides and door lock (why not while panel off). Make sure door lock "up" and lower panel light wire through switch housing when reinstall panel. You can later force the wire back down through. Let dry for 24 hous in full up position. My biggest mistake was getting the glue all over the upper window. Had to use Zippo lighter fluid to remove. Don't make this mistake as it took me a long time to remove.

My questions for the next round - Do you let the window dry in the full up position? Should you remove the outer lower horizontal weather strip?

Celebrate with "Fractured Mirror" by Ace (1978) when finished successfully.
 
I would have suggested removing the window and retainers and removing all traces of previous glues and reglueing it out of the car. I have found that the new glue doesn't hold well unless all of the old glue is removed. Ford has an epoxy that they have been using on the rear window lifts of some of their suv's that should work well. Although I have used black rtv on some smaller car windows without a problem, I'm not sure that it will be a permanent fix for our large heavy windows.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I did remove the window and previous "black" glue with a utility knife. The dealer even had it marked with a box in "yellow" where they applied the glue originally on both sides of the window.
 
Silicone won't last. You need to use a two part epoxy designed to bond glass to plastic.

Ideally you pull the clips and drill a couple holes through them where they grab the glass. Then you fill the slots with the epoxy, bolt them back in, slip the glass into the slots, and roll the windows up. Depending on the cure time for the epoxy, you leave the glass up as long as it says. If it's a quick cure, call it 12 hours.
 
I did something similar, only I used the same stuff that is used on your windshield, the black adhesive, and used a brush on primer on the glass that my body shop family friend swears by, let it sit for 24hr in the up position and its been good so far.
It took a week to get the black adhesive to wear off my hand where I made a mess with it, so hopefully it lasts a little while.
 
Its not rocket science guys.

I reglued both my windows with some old aquarium silicone I bought from walmart, this stuff is made to bond to both glass and plastic aquariums. The dr window has been fine for 5 years and still going, and I just did my pass side last month. Make sure to remove all the old adhesive and clean both the glass and plastic with alcohol. While your in there also grease the sliders and pivot points. I did this with everything in the car and it took about 20 min. The hardest part is making sure you have a very clean and oil free surface on both the glass and plastic. Once both glass and the plastic clips are clean and dry fill the clips with plenty of silicone roll the window up and leave it for a day. I've used the drivers side window with no problems in 100+ degrees and at drive throughs while its snowing.
Have fun.
 
go to a glass shop and they will sell you the right glue to use on it, its a common problem so they will know exactly what you need.
 
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