No start got me stumped...

Kevin Varnes

Registered User
Okay here's the deal. I just replaced the head gaskets on my beater '93 SC in my spare time over the past few weeks (been out of town a bit). I finally got it all back together tonight, went to start it and it turns over fine, but no start.

I tested fuel pressure and I'm getting 40 psi on the rail and it appears to hold fine according to the service manual (held 41 psi through GNR Nighttrain). The fuel pump comes on with the key and also when I ground the circuit. According to my made in China spark detector I'm at least getting spark from the coil to the wires (checked two) although I'm not sure how bright the flashes are supposed to be it is flashing. I couldn't check at the plugs becuase I couldn't see while cranking it. I pulled the plugs and while they didn't look great they weren't fouled. Went ahead and replaced them anyway with new Champion coppers (yeah I know, but it's a beater and it runs fine with them). I checked, double checked and then checked again the plug wire locations on the coil and they are good per the Ford Service manual (not the Haynes misprint).

So, I appear to be getting fuel at the rail and spark at the coil. No upshift light while cranking. The car ran fine when I pulled it in. Other than running warm/hot it had no run/start issues. For kicks I scanned for codes before calling it a night and got a 542 (fuel pump circuit open; ECA to motor). I suspect that may be related to me grounding the fuel circuit while testing for pressure as all other indications show me having good fuel pressure (KO and while cranking).

Anybody have any ideas? I just did a quick search on and one thing that I did find was someone mentioning a ground strap from the rear driver's head to the firewall. Don't remember putting that on, but I don't remember taking it off either. I did replace my engine mounts and both ground straps at the engine mounts are attached in the same fashion as before. So I'm completely stumped. Oh one other probably non related thing, but while scanning for codes KOEO the fan did not come on while the computer ran through its diagnostics. Not sure why that was, but I know it did it previously when I scanned for codes. Any help anyone????????
 
The ground wire you speak of on the back of the head was on 89-90 only and it was an 02 sensor ground so it wouldn't prevent startup.

Sounds to me like you aren't getting fuel. Even if timing were off you'd get the occasional pop or backfire. If you are getting nada then most likely you aren't getting fuel. I'd be checking for fuel delivery. If the TPS is reading open you won't get any fuel. This can be caused by a pinched harness under the TB, I've seen that before. Anyway, if you have a noid light you can pull an injector plug and see if it's firing.

The fan should run both speeds during the test. Something is up there too.
 
Thanks Dave. The wiring harness by the TB is kind of stuffed in there and I do recall having to fish the TPS and IAC wiring connectors out to hook them up after I put the blower/TB/inlet plenum assembly back on. I did not disconnect the fuel rail from the main line or any of the injectors from their harnesses so those should hopefully be okay still. Unfortunately my VOM is missing in action right now so I'm kind of flying blind right now from an electrical troubleshooting standpoint. I'll see if I can locate a noid light set tonight after work. I was surprised after cranking it multiple times and then pulling the plugs that they were not fouled or even wet at all even with good pressure on the rail.

I'm not sure why the fan did not come on during the self test. I know that it did when I scanned for codes in the past. With how hot the car had been running the fan was pretty much on all the time though so perhaps the motor isn't any good anymore. I'll try running power to the fan to see if the motor is still good.
 
I was wondering that as well when I first hooked up my fuel pressure gauge and the pressure took a while to build, but then I found a leak in my pressure gauge connection. After correcting that fuel pressure comes right up to 40-41psi and holds there (KOEO).
 
I am having the same type of problem. Everthing is new...everything. I finally got the car turning over but no go Joe. Same symptoms as above. I can hear the fuel pump (255 lph) prime and I have a new SCP gauge that fits right on the rail. Thing is it only shows about 20 psi...the new regulator should have been factory set to about 40, as per Bill at SCP. Should it show 40 psi all the time...even when not running, but the key on?

And in the above mentioned post...Was there a haynes misprint in regards to the plug wires on the coil pack. 1,2,3 come from the passenger side and 4,5,6 from the drivers. 4,5, and 6 are on the front of the coil (front being closest while standing in front of car). haynes say's that plug 6 goes in the middle. is this right?

I had a couple pops on the first few turn overs, no backfires though....sounds cool turning over with open headers!!

I played around with the cam sensor and it seemed to turn over easier in certain positions.
 
The earlier Haynes manuals had a misprint and had the plug wires on the cable as 1-2-3 and then 4-5-6. If yours says 1-2-3 and 4-6-5 then you have them on there correctly.

I just tried the noid lights on injectors 1 and 2 and they seem to be pulsing. I also checked the TPS voltage and it is at 1.04 closed to 4.64 at WOT.

Next up is check Mike8675309's post on diagnosing the ignition system (titled Won't Start? Try This ->) Search for all posts by Mike8675309. The last response to it was 02-13-2006 if you are looking for it.
 
I ran through Mike8675309's diagnostics and posted the results there if anyone is interested. Still stumped. It looks like I need a new DIS module even though it worked perfectly fine before I took the car down.
 
spetz01 said:
I am having the same type of problem. Everthing is new...everything. I finally got the car turning over but no go Joe. Same symptoms as above. I can hear the fuel pump (255 lph) prime and I have a new SCP gauge that fits right on the rail. Thing is it only shows about 20 psi...the new regulator should have been factory set to about 40, as per Bill at SCP. Should it show 40 psi all the time...even when not running, but the key on?

And in the above mentioned post...Was there a haynes misprint in regards to the plug wires on the coil pack. 1,2,3 come from the passenger side and 4,5,6 from the drivers. 4,5, and 6 are on the front of the coil (front being closest while standing in front of car). haynes say's that plug 6 goes in the middle. is this right?

I had a couple pops on the first few turn overs, no backfires though....sounds cool turning over with open headers!!

I played around with the cam sensor and it seemed to turn over easier in certain positions.

Yes it should sit at 40 psi w/ the car off and the key on. Mine does and will bleed down after like 20 minutes but it bleeds down very slowly.

The regulator only keeps the fuel in the rail to a certain pressure before opening and allowing the excess fuel to flow through the return back to the tank. You could have either a weak diaphragm in your regulator which is allowing too much fuel to flow back to the tank, or a weak pump that can't pump enough pressure. If I had to guess, I'd say its more than likely a weak pump as I don't think the stock regulators fail or at least its not a common failure.

Kevin, the fans should run, maybe your IRCM took a dump, do you have one off another SC to swap, it might control injector pulse also, but don't quote me on that.
 
Hey Scott. I believe the EEC controls the pulse width. I think the IRCM just has relays inside it. I can try swapping the one off of my Cougar but I just can't see how the IRCM would cause a no start condition. I really don't want to buy a DIS module and have it not be it. Stupid cars.
 
starting problem

I have the same starting problem.. I have a '90 xr7 that has about 300 miles on the engine since being rebuilt with some mods ( high flow fuel pump and 42# injectors to name a few) The car was running fine, then I let it sit for about 8 months (garaged) until I tried to start it again. I am getting pressure at the rail, and I am getting spark (I sprayed starter fluid into the intake and it kicks over for a few revolutions). I even put new gas in the tank with no difference. It does not try to kick over at all without starter fluid. What should I try next??
 
Do you know if your injectors are firing? How do your plugs look after turning it over? Did you have your setup tuned to run with the new components or are you still running in the stock trim? I picked up a Noid test light set at Advance Auto for about $18. You can plug it into the injector harness and crank the engine over and see if the injectors are getting a signal to fire. Otherwise you can try to run through Mike8675309's diagnostic post (link posted earlier in the thread by me) and see if that helps.
 
Thanks, I will try that...I did connect a voltmeter to one of the injector plugs with no noticeable fluctuation while cranking, but maybe the voltmeter could not pick up the pulses.
 
Hey Kev.....Kev here. What ended up being the issue with this? I'm having the exact same symptoms right now with an 89 I picked up after sitting for 14 years.
 
Good evening

I would look at the alternator harness, black 18g fuse link (Reference ETVM Power Distribution to the Intergrated Controller Module and Cooling Fan (3.8L Supercharged).

It might be broken connector, corrosion or not fully seated.
 
Being all you did was change the heads, I would definitely throw a compression gauge on there and make sure you have cranking compression, if you had the plugs out pretty easy to do even if you don’t have a garage at least listen for the burst of air from the plug hole but I recommend checking that.
 
I have the same starting problem.. I have a '90 xr7 that has about 300 miles on the engine since being rebuilt with some mods ( high flow fuel pump and 42# injectors to name a few) The car was running fine, then I let it sit for about 8 months (garaged) until I tried to start it again. I am getting pressure at the rail, and I am getting spark (I sprayed starter fluid into the intake and it kicks over for a few revolutions). I even put new gas in the tank with no difference. It does not try to kick over at all without starter fluid. What should I try next??

That tells you it is a fuel delivery issue if it kicks over with starter fluid, but nothing on regular start-up. Start there.

Smitty
 
That tells you it is a fuel delivery issue if it kicks over with starter fluid, but nothing on regular start-up. Start there.

Smitty

I missed the part where he said it kicks over with starting fluid, you can forget my compression suggestion at that point.
 
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