pulling heads - what else should i replace?

SCNate

Registered User
I am going to be pulling the head on my 89 sc to replace the head gaskets in the next month or so. It has about 90k miles on it and I just wanted any suggestions on anything else that i should look into replacing while i am in there, besides all the usual stuff with the head gaskets (studs, etc.) Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Also i will be buying some new 18inch wheels for it.. i have found a few aftermarket jobs from differnt companies that have the correct bolt pattern and such... is there any backspacing issues with the t-birds that i have to watch out for when i buy some new wheels?

Thanks
Nate
 
how much are you willing to spend...

you could get your heads ported... 1000-1250
you could replace springs... ???-???
you could replace rockers... 300-350
you could get your SC rebuilt... ???-???
you could put in 3 or 4 layer head gaskets... 150-180
you could get you SC ported... ???-???
 
As for the wheels, do be cautious of offset / backspacing. I think stock is 39mm. Either that or 42mm. You don't want suspension or alignment issues.

About the HG's ... if the HGs blew, the coolant probably has messed up your O2 sensors, so replace those. Also, it would be a great time to do motor mounts and remove the lower bolt holding the lower IC tube on (not really needed).
 
since the heads are off, would it be ok to do motor mounts without a lift ? maybe just a jackstand underneath ?

whats all involved in taking the actual motor mount out ? how many bolts ? it looks to be just one bolt on top.
 
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I haven't done motor mounts myself, but there are some good threads about them on this board.

Try searching for these:

"Motor Mount Testimonial" by MartianBob

"Motor Mount Experts (Or not)" by BobGPz
 
you could get your heads ported... 1000-1250
:eek: :eek: :eek:

if i would've know this i wouldnt have pulled my heads off ! lol

just gasket match the heads. or u can have them ported. it all depends on your HP goals.


Don't believe everything that you read here. You can get heads ported for much cheaper than that by professionals who know what they are doing. As an example, I paid a little of $600 for my heads to be ported and they flow as good and better than a lot of heads that people sell on this site. Most of those heads have larger valves, whereas mine have the stock valves. Porting is not just picking up some tools and "smooting" stuff out. For the 1000-1250 you can have heads that rival the heads Stiegemeier used to port for our cars...(which wasn't all that special either, except that he welded the exhaust runners). For less than $1k you can have a set of heads that outflow Coy Miller Stage 2 heads on both intake and exhaust.

It all depends on what you want. The more power you want, the more it'll cost you. But to get a set of heads that's cleaned up a bit and has a definite increase in flow, it won't cost you much at all. Problem is, is that you've got a lot of "experts" on here who won't be able to tell you if it's a good head or not...they just go off of what someone else told them.
 
I was just advising on the min I would do. Of course my own personal ride is a different subject.

I am happy with my Steig heads however something of that nature isnt needed for a majority of SC owners.

I would really be interested to see what can be done with stock unported heads. If memory serves ne correct they dont flow all that bad for a stock head when compared to lets say a SBF 302W head. Wonder just how far we can go with em.
 
when i had to replace my heads, i had them ported and polished for around $500 and had a complete valve job. i also got new roller rockers, engine mounts, throttle body, cleaned up my fuel rail, new injectors and fuel pressure regulator, replaced o2 sensors, crank sensor, water pump, belts, spark plugs and wires, and some hoses. with everything off it made it a lot easier to do all this. i would recommend doing as much as your budget allows so you don't have to take it apart again in the near future. we all know that the next thing that will break is going to be the hardest to get to. but like everybody is saying it depends on your horsepower needs. if this is not a daily driver i really suggest on taking the time to replace and clean up as much as possible, especially the parts that are known to fail, and the parts that are a pain to change.
 
i forgot to mention porting the exhaust manifold, or getting headers, there is not really a better time than while your heads are off.
 
since the heads are off, would it be ok to do motor mounts without a lift ? maybe just a jackstand underneath ?

whats all involved in taking the actual motor mount out ? how many bolts ? it looks to be just one bolt on top.

I haven't done motor mounts myself, but there are some good threads about them on this board.

Try searching for these:

"Motor Mount Testimonial" by MartianBob

"Motor Mount Experts (Or not)" by BobGPz



i really just want to know that if i've got the engine down to the block can i support the engine with just a jack underneath the oil pan ? and i can i do this safely ?
 
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i changed my motor mounts that way, use a piece of wood between the jack and only lift the engine enough to change the mounts. i had no problems woth the heads off and everything out of the way.
 
i really just want to know that if i've got the engine down to the block can i support the engine the just a jack underneath the oil pan ? and i can i do this safely ?

Maybe use 2 jacks while you have your hands in there? I always use a backup when I am under large heavy things. And I always keep my cell phone within reach (juuust in case ...)
 
Maybe use 2 jacks while you have your hands in there? I always use a backup when I am under large heavy things. And I always keep my cell phone within reach (juuust in case ...)

haha i never thought of that. its usually in my pocket -or in the yard cause i got pissed lol.
 
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