Got some work done tonight on my project (pics inside)

It shouldnt be necessary to completely refresh the block if its in decent shape now. ( Compression test would be a good idea while its still all together )
In the least, I might use a Ball hone to break the glaze on the cylidner walls when the pistons are taken out, and Clean out the oil passages.

- Dan
 
The only reason I am putting new bearings, rings, and oil pump in this motor is just added insurance. I am doing them now that way I know they are good and will last a long time. I am building this motor for reliability not all out performance, likewise its only going to make around 320rwhp at most in its entire life time because of the class rules that I have to fallow. I need to keep a power to weight ratio of 9.5.1 and with my car weighing somewhere around 2800-3000lbs at most I am aloud to make is 315rwhp. Stock internals in a 5.0L are more then capable at making that much power and reliably as well.

With that being said, the engine will likely be completed today and will be ready to be installed in the race car. I will then need to get some bolts to mount the pressure plate to the flywheel so that I will have eveything I need to get the drivetrain back into the car. Once I do that I'll run my break lines, run some fuel lines to the fuel cell, have the shop install the nascar dash, nascar Dr Gas side exit exhaust, and lexan windshield, then I'll wire the car and it'll run :D

Shane
 
CarlisleLandOwn said:
:rolleyes:

He's re-ringing a low milage known motor. The cam is new, the heads are new, etc ... its a seasoned block. You guys need to get out more often and actually start BUILDING engines instead of internet racing. Its called building engines, not rockets to go to the moon. If you only knew what half the racing teams got away with, what the OEM's get away with, and what back yard builders such as him get away with. Its almost scary how difficult a simple engine rebuild is made by thoes that don't do them, or thoes that have more money then brains. Good job guys ...

Now if this was some 150k pos non running no idea motor, sure, precaution is a good thing. BUT ITS NOT.
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Man, this brings me back to the things I used to get away with in my younger days putting engines together. Once, I bought a used 440 out of a buddies GTX, and just opened it up to look inside. Put it back together as-is with a Hemi-grind cam and a six-pack in my back yard under a tree, and stuffed it in my 'Cuda. I ran it HARD for 2 years before I sold the car. Never smoked, rattled, or gave up. When I sold the car, it ran for the next guy for years until I lost track of him.

If things look okay, and the engine's not beat, you'll probably get away with it. Of course, it could blow up, too. Not the end of the world; that's racin'.

JD
 
Shane, I would go with plan A. I can't count the people who suggested I rebuild my 100+K mile motor. And that was back in uh...2000? Even the best plans can go to crap and sometimes the garage builds own jooo.
 
CarlisleLandOwn said:
Hot tanking the short block isn’t necessary. If he is clean with his build everything will be fine. Any dirt or dust or small particles in the motor aren’t going to get clogged, if only you knew what really floated around a motor. We can continue to guess on what ifs about the engine for days, fact is, it’s just not necessary.

He’s using the same parts out of the block that were in it, “straightening” the motor isn’t going to help, the parts worked before, they will work now. Do you periodically pull your motor apart and just line bore it for the hell of it? Even if he is doing pistons and rods … it’s just not necessary.

Magnaflux? Seriously? It’s a stock bore engine out of a low mileage running car, no seriously… Why stop here? I can think of thousands of dollars worth of other machine work we can do to the motor that are just as useless. Yeah, its $40 here, $50 there, but hey, when you are talking about machine work, it’s all necessary right? What is popular this week because you “KNOW” what it is or have heard of it is what NEEDS to be done to every single motor ever.

Put the thing together, make sure your parts match, and beat on it like it owes you money.
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I've been drag racing competitively for a while and know why straight cylinders are important.

I bet you didn't know that there are special honing procedures that have 30hp differences, over standard honing, did you? Well, there is and it's the one that I use in my race motors. I've also seen what different hones do to seating the rings. Do you even know what ring seat means?

I never said anything about line boring, learn how to read. My whole point was to do what is right. Maybe instead of being completely subjective, like you always are, with your claims you should use some objectivity to support your reason.
 
Well today was spent cleaning the block and getting it ready for reassembly. I completely cleaned the deck off of the old head gasket and all other places where a gesket will go. The only thing that I didn't get done was to hone the bores out and clean the pistons. I baught the honing tool from Sears today so that I can hone out the bores myself. Tomorrow will consist of honing the bores, cleaning the pistons, installing new Total Seal gapless piston rings on the pistons then assembling the rest of the engine with all my parts. Here is some pics of todays work.

Pistons in need of some cleaning. Never mind the cacti, they belong to my sister.
IMGP0356.jpg


Pics of the block right after I called it quits.
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IMGP0365.jpg


IMGP0366.jpg


Shane
 
CarlisleLandOwn said:
Hot tanking the short block isn’t necessary. If he is clean with his build everything will be fine. Any dirt or dust or small particles in the motor aren’t going to get clogged, if only you knew what really floated around a motor. We can continue to guess on what ifs about the engine for days, fact is, it’s just not necessary.

He’s using the same parts out of the block that were in it, “straightening” the motor isn’t going to help, the parts worked before, they will work now. Do you periodically pull your motor apart and just line bore it for the hell of it? Even if he is doing pistons and rods … it’s just not necessary.

Magnaflux? Seriously? It’s a stock bore engine out of a low mileage running car, no seriously… Why stop here? I can think of thousands of dollars worth of other machine work we can do to the motor that are just as useless. Yeah, its $40 here, $50 there, but hey, when you are talking about machine work, it’s all necessary right? What is popular this week because you “KNOW” what it is or have heard of it is what NEEDS to be done to every single motor ever.

Put the thing together, make sure your parts match, and beat on it like it owes you money.
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Might as well have said "I dont need insurance...Everyone else has it so why should I?" I have seen several people do this sort of thing without machine work and have it work fine. However, since you are going to be racing this and looking for consistancy throughout the track, why would you not go the extra mile and make sure you always have the same balance on the entire engine (power balance per cyl. that is). Casey is 100% correct about the boring/honing process. I see you are going to use gapless rings. One more reason to have it done right. If you dont have a completely round cyl, you are going to lose power with that setup...Remember consistancy is the key.

ADM, the car in the pic behind the engine is the home for that new setup. Its fer the twisties I think.

Chris
 
CMac89 said:
I bet you didn't know that there are special honing procedures that have 30hp differences, over standard honing, did you? Well, there is and it's the one that I use in my race motors. I've also seen what different hones do to seating the rings. Do you even know what ring seat means?
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OMG YOU KNOW ABOUT FELTLAPING!? ITS THE END OF THE WORLD, the secret is out. :rolleyes:

seawalkersee said:
Might as well have said "I dont need insurance...Everyone else has it so why should I?" I have seen several people do this sort of thing without machine work and have it work fine. However, since you are going to be racing this and looking for consistancy throughout the track, why would you not go the extra mile and make sure you always have the same balance on the entire engine (power balance per cyl. that is). Casey is 100% correct about the boring/honing process. I see you are going to use gapless rings. One more reason to have it done right. If you dont have a completely round cyl, you are going to lose power with that setup...Remember consistancy is the key.

ADM, the car in the pic behind the engine is the home for that new setup. Its fer the twisties I think.

Chris
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Awesome. You want to throw something like insurance into this? Fine, then answer my question ... do you tear down your engines on a regular basis and just machine the hell out of them for no reason? Yeah, thats what I thought.
 
seawalkersee said:
However, since you are going to be racing this and looking for consistancy throughout the track, why would you not go the extra mile and make sure you always have the same balance on the entire engine (power balance per cyl. that is)....Remember consistancy is the key.
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I agree with Chris on this one......you are building a RACE car.......not a daily driver that you occasionally take to the track. If you were putting this engine in a street ONLY car, I'd say fine, don't hot tank it, or magnaflux it. But since you don't have a BIG budget for race components like a sponsored team, and don't have any special blocks, etc. I would say go the extra mile....have the block cleaned, magnafluxed, and balance the pistons on the crank. I know it is more money up front, but like Chris said....you want reliability when you are on the track, and due to the fact that you are going to be pushing this engine as you race it (seeing harder use than a daily driver), do it right the first time and save yourself having to re-do it later.
 
plus who knows what kinds of corrosion you have going on in all those coolant cavities and passages. Hot tanking that would clean everything out, get all the oily foam build up out of there too. It will make it run much more consisitent temps, and have better oil drainback for that high RPM you're wanting to run.
-Thomas
 
uh huh! then you can add that red thing from EASTWOOD to seal up the poors in the valley for better OIL something, i dont know, need to read the catalog again!
 
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