yet, another car dies at stops question

89SCTB

Registered User
my problem is very simular to thunder66 but one other thing happens and I dont know if significant. "89" with 87k miles, automatic. while doing 70 or 30 the car will give an almost violent jerk or surge then continue fine. But when you come to stop, it may or may not die. Normally starts right up after. because no codes came up on the code scanner I thought sensors were ok, changed fuel filter and thought I had problem licked but no, it has returned.I have new motorcraft plugs and wires, fuel injectors have been serviced. I know you will all probably say cam sensor or crank sensor. How do you know if its one or the other? Also my book says that you need to set #1 cylinder to 26 degrees after TDC for cam sensor removal. Can anyone offer a little advice to finding 26 degrees after TDC.

thanks in advance
 
Sounds like crank sensor to me. A crank sensor rarely ever throws codes when something is wrong
 
Do you loose power steering when you get the violent bump? My son had a loose connection at the battery supply input to the starter relay (voltage tapped out from there). Usually when he hit a good bump, the car would die and then come back.

Otherwise, are you sure you are waiting for the memory codes. If you don't use a scanner and you short the leads to initiate test, the first 11 code is repeated twice then, if there are memory codes, they pop up. I have been lucky in always finding a memory code for the PIP/Crank Sensor.
Rock
 
thanks for your replies. The "bump" idea is good but it can happen on a flat road without a bump in sight. and It was tested on a code reader and ( not wires shorted ) and everything came up fine - no codes , well not fine . would appreciate a little more detail on the crank sensor ( removal and install ) any helpful hints not found in manuals - and also more info for cam sensor ( 26 degrees past top dead center.

Thanks again !
 
haynes manual

when my crnak sensor went bad it would make the car godead once it warmed up and it could take two or more hours for it to start again. no codes were showing when mine went bad either.
the best info on replacing it is in the haynes manual (even tells you to use a match book cover to set the gap.
 
Hey Rock, thanks for the tip!!!

I have been having the exact same issue with my '92SC when I hit a bump in the road. I was thinking that it was related to a possible engine mount failure. I had heard somewhere that there is a ground-strap secured to one of the mounts. I wasn't looking forward to spending this weekend under the bird looking for a bad ground. I think I'll check out the line from the battery to the starter relay first.
 
Larry
I think the ground strap your talking about is on the pass side. I confess to having my 93s AC compressor/bracket resting on the ground cable while I await a few parts before reassembly. I am replacing the motor mounts before it all goes together, it is naked in there now so I might as well. The mounts are deteriorated but don't appear to be torn.

My sons 89 needs them also but am saving his till some other projects are done.

By the way, whoever mentioned the aftermarket install market causing problems was right on the mark. Both the 89 & 93 we have now had several problems related to "professional" install of stereo/amps/alarms, not to mention fog-lights one the 93. Public flogging of the guys in some of those shops seems appropriate!

Rock
 
I had a similar problem with my 89 XR7 (Vivian was her name) and a change of the throttle position sensor did the trick!

Hope that helps.

Aaron
 
Cam sensor

Dear 89,
The cam sensor is easy to replace, unless the whole assembly has been broken or removed. Just take the two screws out, remove the sensor, and set the new one in its place. The 26 degree thing is only needed if the synchronizer assembly has been taken off the car for some reason. Word to the wise: Get the sensor from Ford. I have also heard this advice from a mechanic friend who has had to fix the assembly on a few SC's: Replace it even if you're not having trouble with it, but also have 100k miles on your car. The cam sensor can fail internally, causing it to melt, lock up, and break the shaft and/or gear. Then you have to synchronize as you have read, and it's a pain! Best of luck! Scott
 
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