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Thread: WTB: NOS/OEM Front UCA's and Stabilizer Links

  1. #1
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    WTB: NOS/OEM Front UCA's and Stabilizer Links

    Before I head off to the Ford parts counter, does anyone have a pair of front UCA's and/or stabilizer links that they want to part with? I'm only interested in parts that are identical to OEM (TRW?).

    Thanks,

    JD

  2. #2
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    I managed to find 1-oem and 1-trw for mine, however, they look very different ( from each other and from the original ones ), and did not have the trw raised stamp like the original. You may try looking at motorcraft to see if they are more like the original.

    sorry for the bad news

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    www.supercoupeperformance.com

    Bill has everything...

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    Quote Originally Posted by mlbuxbaum View Post
    www.supercoupeperformance.com

    Bill has everything...
    Looks like the UCA's MAY be exactly like OEM from the photo, but it's hard to tell. The stabilizer links are different from original according to the photo. Thanks for the heads-up; I'll contact him to confirm the arms are exact duplicates; hopefully they are. They need to look like the factory parts for restoration purposes...

    JD

  5. #5
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    everything is identical, i just replaced UCA, LCA, and the endlinks from Bill. I also replaced the outer tie rods, and tension strut bushings, all of them.... Piece of cake to do actually....even when the car is on jack stands...

  6. #6
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    I used a set from www.rockauto.com and they were TRWs. Upper and Lowers all shipped to my door was around $250. That was for all 4.
    Honor, Grace and Dignity......Remember these

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlbuxbaum View Post
    everything is identical, i just replaced UCA, LCA, and the endlinks from Bill. I also replaced the outer tie rods, and tension strut bushings, all of them.... Piece of cake to do actually....even when the car is on jack stands...
    I've communicated with Bill; his are not identical. I'm sure they're functionally identical, but not cosmetically identical. I'm preserving this car as an original example, so the cosmetics are important to me. Bill carries the same TRW arms that the parts stores have. Apparently, the OEM-style arms are no longer manufactured. So, I'm down to searching for dead-stock and NOS parts.

    I did the same front suspension rebuild as you on my SC driver last year. I used parts-store replacement parts on that one, becuase I didn't care about originallity; only function. Doing the work isn't a problem; finding OEM parts is proving to be.

    Looks like another nation-wide game of "Where's Waldo" for the UCA's...

    JD
    Last edited by txsc; 07-12-2007 at 04:47 PM.

  8. #8
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    If you have the part numbers let me know. Can do some digging.
    Honor, Grace and Dignity......Remember these

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BirdofPrey97 View Post
    If you have the part numbers let me know. Can do some digging.
    Thanks for the help, I'm digging as well. Here are the P/N's from my factory parts manual:

    E9SZ 5K484 A : Stabilizer Link (LH & RH)
    E9SZ 3084 A : RH Upper Control Arm
    E9SZ 3085 A : LH Upper Control Arm


    Let me know if you find some hiding under any rocks...

    Thanks!

    JD

  10. #10
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    I hate to disappoint you. I just put on some Upper control arms, OEM ( ford pn's ) from Ford boxes. Found 1 gathering dust at a dealer up north. They too are not cosmetically the same as what came off. They are closer to the new style TRW's than what we had originally.

    You may try to see if you can get the ball joints out then do a swap ? Otherwise you could be in a real hurt.

    Keith

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kpatton View Post
    I hate to disappoint you. I just put on some Upper control arms, OEM ( ford pn's ) from Ford boxes. Found 1 gathering dust at a dealer up north. They too are not cosmetically the same as what came off. They are closer to the new style TRW's than what we had originally.

    You may try to see if you can get the ball joints out then do a swap ? Otherwise you could be in a real hurt.

    Keith
    Yes, this is proving to be a tough one. I'm persistant, and not really in a big hurry, so I'm confident they'll eventually turn up. I may settle for some close-to-original pieces until I can find the right ones. I'm sure someone here will buy my new "used" ones after i find the correct pieces. I've had pretty good luck finding "unfindable" parts so far. Just takes time and $$$.

    As far as rebuilding, I'm going to pull an original off a salvage car on my next trip, and start hunting for a place/method to rebuild them. I'm thinking I might be able to machine out the old joints, then rob new ones out of an aftermarket arm. Lots of variables there, of course, but I'm at least going to do the feasibility study.

    JD

  12. #12
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    A little odd. I have been looking also for the uca's and the lca's here too with no luck. If you happen to run across a good source how about let me know.

    S

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadow357x2 View Post
    A little odd. I have been looking also for the uca's and the lca's here too with no luck. If you happen to run across a good source how about let me know.

    S
    The lower control arms available at the parts stores are cosmetically identical to the OEM's. I don't remember the source and P/N's, but a quick search should bring it up. The uppers are proving to be the tough ones to find.

    JD

  14. #14
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    The LCA's are supposedly the hardest ones to find because of the discontinuation of the SC specefic LCA (I guess it has a teflon ball joint, or larger maybe?) When Moog bought TRW, they combined the two diferent arms into one model, which was for a standard MN12, not the stronger SC one. I was able to locate two new in the box SC specefic ones. One came from Advance Auto, but they couldn't get the other side, but a member here had one new in the box and sent it to me. I was also able to pick up 2 TRW UCA's from a member on here, but haven't looked to see if I am going to be needing them yet on my new 35th. I know they were defiantely needed on my rustbucket one, but not sure on the new one yet. If what kpatton says is true, then we may just be SOL on the arms all together. pressing out the old ball joint and pressing in one out of a newer UCA might be your best option if it fits. Maybe you can get a MOOG catalog and find one that will work...
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by A1cntrler View Post
    The LCA's are supposedly the hardest ones to find because of the discontinuation of the SC specefic LCA (I guess it has a teflon ball joint, or larger maybe?) When Moog bought TRW, they combined the two diferent arms into one model, which was for a standard MN12, not the stronger SC one. I was able to locate two new in the box SC specefic ones. One came from Advance Auto, but they couldn't get the other side, but a member here had one new in the box and sent it to me. I was also able to pick up 2 TRW UCA's from a member on here, but haven't looked to see if I am going to be needing them yet on my new 35th. I know they were defiantely needed on my rustbucket one, but not sure on the new one yet. If what kpatton says is true, then we may just be SOL on the arms all together. pressing out the old ball joint and pressing in one out of a newer UCA might be your best option if it fits. Maybe you can get a MOOG catalog and find one that will work...
    Accoring to someone awhile back on the suspension forum, the new special SC LCA's are supposedly available again. No first-hand knowledge of this, though.

    I never consider myself SOL on parts searches : ) That's part of the fun of these cars for me - hunting for parts. So far, I've been 100% sucessful on my quest for NOS parts. I'm patient, persistant, and not afraid to pay up when I find what I want. Heck, they're still coming up with new parts finds for old musclecars every week. Comparatively, the parts for our cars are plentiful. I may have to use an "interim" pair of UCA's, but I'll eventually find some OEM's.

    The rebuild project might be fun. I'm going to harvest an old original from the salvage yard in the next week or so, and start doing the engineering.

    JD

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