Poll What Oil do you guys Run and what are your average OAT

I live in Southern California, so the weather isn't really ever all THAT cold. However, it does snow up in Big Bear where I ski, so the car does see some actual cold weather, sometimes.

I run the "Mobil 1" 0W-30 oil. I picked up 1 mpg by making the switch from 5W-30. I use the Ford Oil filter. Both are available at your local WalMart.

Both T-birds (Manual and Auto) are rebuilt 99% stock. I say 99% because with that many miles, there's always something thats just NOT perfect. So, basically, the engine sees normal boost preasures. And the ring seal is probably as good as it gets. I probably now almost have about 60,000 miles on the daily driver's rebuilt motor.

On my daily driver I got 10,000 miles on one oil-change. Yep! 10,000 miles. It got to the bottom of the cross-hatched area on the dip-stick after the last 200 miles. I took the car up the mountain to Big Bear for a ski trip. The oil was dark, but not like ink. When I'd wipe the dip-stick on a paper towel, it would look like a deep honey color with some noticible soot staining the paper.

I'm happy with the results, and on a car that does mostly freeway driving (averageing 85 mph), it's nice to not have to a.) spend money on oil changes ever month and b.) not have to change oil every month either.

the rotella has the most protection of all the oils

Mike8675309 said:

I've been running Shell Rotella T oil since I rebuilt the motor in the 93. The 90 is running mobil 1. I believe the Shell is a 15w40.

I was gonna go to a synthetic in the 93 last year, but a nagging oil leak kept me from wanting to waste the more expensive oil. Hope to clear up the oil leak this winter/spring, at which time I'll start running a racing synthetic.

Outside air temps run from morning lows down to 40F (spring/fall) to afternoon highs 90-100F (summer).

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AS THE HOT RODS MAGINZES WERE SAYING THAT THE EPA HAS MADE THE OIL COMPANIES REMOVE THE ZINC & PHOUFUS OUT ON THE DOWN SIDE IT CAN DESTORY THE CATS FAST WITH BUILDUP BUT WHICH DO YOU WANT A MOTOR OR CATS

I like the ELF (By Total oil) 5 W40. in the summer, and well she sleeps all winter.

AMSOIL 5w30 all the way baby.

AMSOIL RD30 10W-30 but will change to the RD20 5W-20 next oil change. This is AMSOIL's Racing oil which they have in three different viscosity 5W-20, 10W- 30 and 15W-50

I sometimes do inspections at a local oil bottling facility here in new orleans

i know first hand 95% of different brand oils come out the same exact tank

so when u say "x" brand its really not any different than most others

in any case API regulates the oil specifications so much there isnt much of a difference anyway

the best oil to get is synthetic and if u can find "off road" zinc oil your engine and bearings greately appreciate it

I only use 20w50 full synthetic in everything

decipha said:

I sometimes do inspections at a local oil bottling facility here in new orleans

i know first hand 95% of different brand oils come out the same exact tank

so when u say "x" brand its really not any different than most others

in any case API regulates the oil specifications so much there isnt much of a difference anyway

the best oil to get is synthetic and if u can find "off road" zinc oil your engine and bearings greately appreciate it

I only use 20w50 full synthetic in everything

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Why do you only use a 20W-50? Use the proper viscosity oil that the manufacture recommends for that engine.

There are very few engines built since the late 1980's that need a 20W-50 oil. Using too thick of an oil in modern engines cause higher operating temperatures even when using a synthetic oil. It can affect MPGs and horse power due to the tight tolerances of modern engines and trying to push that thicker oil through those tighter spaces in the engine.

Most full synthetic oils from the major oil companies are actually a group 3 base stocks which is petroleum. High end synthetic oils are group 4 base stock and are man made not refined like the group 3.

If you are worried about the lighter viscosity oils breaking down then you are using the wrong oil, synthetic or petroleum. I use a 5W-20 group 4 100% synthetic oil in my 94 SC and my new Mustang. Shoot, I even us a 5W-30 synthetic in my 2006 Dodge Turbo Diesel.

Thicker oils like 20W-50 are for engines from the 50's, 60's and even the 70's.

Light oil over time will destroy your main bearings

IN THE MANY TEARDOWNS THAT HAVE BEEN DONE THE BOTTEM END SHOWS MORE THE WEAR ON THE MAIN BEARINGS THAT THE REST OF THE MOTOR IN THE EARLY USE OF LIGHT OIL IT,S OK BUT AS TIME GOES ON IT DOSEN,T PROTECT THE MOTOR LIGHT OIL IS TO KEEP MILEAGE UP BUT THE MOTOR WILL SUFFER

ThunderRoad said:

IN THE MANY TEARDOWNS THAT HAVE BEEN DONE THE BOTTEM END SHOWS MORE THE WEAR ON THE MAIN BEARINGS THAT THE REST OF THE MOTOR IN THE EARLY USE OF LIGHT OIL IT,S OK BUT AS TIME GOES ON IT DOSEN,T PROTECT THE MOTOR LIGHT OIL IS TO KEEP MILEAGE UP BUT THE MOTOR WILL SUFFER

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Then you need to use AMSOIL Signature Series Oil that has a higher film strength than what you are using. ;-) Thicker oil is not the answer for every engine.

Didn,t say that !!!

OLDER WORN MOTORS WILL NOT LAST WITH LIGHT OIL OVER TIME WHY DO YOU THINK THAT THEY MAKE " HIGH MILAGE OIL " ???

I have 158k on my engine. But I take very good care of my car and never beat on it. At what point and condition should I use thicker lol.

Crash00527 said:

I have 158k on my engine. But I take very good care of my car and never beat on it. At what point and condition should I use thicker lol.

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Manny keep using The AMSOIL you are using. You are using the best oil on the market bar none.

ThunderRoad said:

OLDER WORN MOTORS WILL NOT LAST WITH LIGHT OIL OVER TIME WHY DO YOU THINK THAT THEY MAKE " HIGH MILAGE OIL " ???

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Because it is "marketing" to sell more oil.

It is a bold statement to say that "high mileage engines" should not use a lighter viscosity oil because that is just flat not true. It all depends on the quality of the oil and the type and brand of oil that has been used in the engine.


AMSOIL does not sell a "high mileage oil" because of the higher quality of products they make.

3 ?????

1 WHAT ISTHE OUTSIDE TEMP U DON,T WANT 2 RUN 2 HEAVY IN WINTER 2 WHAT IS THE PRESSURE AT IDLE AFTER WARM UP 3 WHAT IS THE PRESSURE AT 2000 RPM AFTER WARMUP 1 MORE WHAT IS ENGINE TEMP AT HOT DAYS IN SUMMER ??? ALL THAT IS TO HELP U MAKE CHOICE IN WINTER RUN 10-30 0R 15-40 SUMMER 15-40 WITH SOME LUCAS THICHER VERY HOT 20-50 BTW MY 95 4/6 WAS UNDER 100000 MILAGE USING 5-30 FROM FIRST OWNER USED A QUART A MONTH OR EVERY 500 MILES USED 15-40 NOW MAY ADD AFTER 9 MONTHS OR EVERY 4000 MILES ALSO KEEPS VAVLE GUIDES FROM WEARING DOWN ....ALSO IN MY SC,S I RUN ROYAL PURPLE 15-40 ALL MOTORS HAVE OVER 100000 2 200000 + I ALSO RUN EXTENTED MILES 7000 BE 4 CHANGES MOBILE 1 HAS 15000 MILEAGE OIL AND OTHER LIE WAS TO CHANGE OIL AT 3000 MILES AS NEWER MOTORS RUN CLEANER U DON,T NEED TO CHANGE AS OFTEN MY NEW CAR SAYS EVERY 7500 2 CHANGE

U should do you home work

rjgraul said:

Because it is "marketing" to sell more oil.

It is a bold statement to say that "high mileage engines" should not use a lighter viscosity oil because that is just flat not true. It all depends on the quality of the oil and the type and brand of oil that has been used in the engine.


AMSOIL does not sell a "high mileage oil" because of the higher quality of products they make.

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SORRY U HAVE BEEN FOOLED BTW MY BUDDY WHO USED 2 SELL AMSOIL BLEW HIS MOTOR WITH JUST OVER 10000O MILES HE NOT LONGER SELLS IT WAS CHEVY PASSENGER VAN NEVER BEAT BTW DID U KNOW THAT NASCAR MOTORS RUN LIGHT WT OIL TO GET HIGHER SPEEDS FOR POLE POSITION THEN CHANGE TO THE RIGHT WT FOR RACE !!!!

I've used Mobil 1 since in started driving. Than started with amsoil back in 2010. My camaro had an oil leak that i didn't even notice. Engine ran with NO oil for God knows how long and it ran like a champ. It was EMPTY one day when I checked dipstick than pulled oil plug.

rjgraul said:

Manny keep using The AMSOIL you are using. You are using the best oil on the market bar none.

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I wasn't questioning the brand just the viscosity.

Hey

I just changed the oil in my SC but the "Change Oil" light in my dash is still lit.

Do I need to reset something or is there a sensor thats bad?

Crash00527 said:

I wasn't questioning the brand just the viscosity.

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Stay with the viscosity that you are using. If you are not using a lot of oil there is no reason to change.

ThunderRoad said:

SORRY U HAVE BEEN FOOLED BTW MY BUDDY WHO USED 2 SELL AMSOIL BLEW HIS MOTOR WITH JUST OVER 10000O MILES HE NOT LONGER SELLS IT WAS CHEVY PASSENGER VAN NEVER BEAT BTW DID U KNOW THAT NASCAR MOTORS RUN LIGHT WT OIL TO GET HIGHER SPEEDS FOR POLE POSITION THEN CHANGE TO THE RIGHT WT FOR RACE !!!!

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Was it proven that the oil blew the engine? Most likely not. The engine may have blown due to other issues which is what usually happenes. People almost always think it is the oil's fault that the engine blew because the last thing they did was change the oil or went to a different brand oil.

Most of the time when an engine blows it is usually due to oil starvation, pump broke and or oil not circulating or part failures. I read a report some where that said and engine failure has never happened due the engine oil itself, it has always been something else. Not knowing the whole story about his failure and weather or not the oil was analyzed to see if the oil was still good or not at the time of the failure and weather or not the oil was used per AMSOIL's directions. I can only speculate why it blew. It could have been possible the engine had high mileage when he converted it to AMSOIL and the damage had already been there, this has happen before too. Everyone wants to blame the oil.

I have used AMSOIL for over 30 years and have never had any engine failure and have put over 200,000 miles on one vehicle that used nothing but AMSOIL. So your friend's decision to stop using and selling AMSOIL was most likely not made on a sound reason. I guess he would have stop using Castrol if that was the oil he had been using too Huh.

And by the way did you that a lot of Nascar teams use AMSOIL and yes they use a lighter oil to qualify (a 0W-20 or 5W-20 or lighter) and then use a 20W-50 racing oil to race for up to 500 miles and then the engine is torn down for analysis. But those are Race Engines not a passenger vehicle engine.

It would also be nice if you would not type with just capital letters. That is considered yelling and is hard to read. Just saying