Maybe I should say "your car"I am upset about my brakes tho. They get real hard after hitting the brakes once or twice. I have a big vac can and replaced the booster but still same shiz. I dont know what do to now, its real dangerous how it is now.
Rich, my cars a 94 so I dont have the massive ABS system that the early cars have on there so idk how much room i'd really save , if any
Miller old falcons didnt have "racks"
Your car has a MUSTANG RACK....As I told you it would be before you bought the one you did from Tims guy
Rich, my cars a 94 so I dont have the massive ABS system that the early cars have on there so idk how much room i'd really save , if any
So his brakes were working fine after the leak was found and now the leak is back causing him to loose vac
Or the brakes worked poorly all along precam, vaccum fix, and after canister. The canister helped but did not cure my problems the smaller cam and the rhoads lifter too care of it once and for all.
question, how mcuh easier is a manual rack(like the mustang 2) over the OEM rack?
I still run the OEM rack, and with skinnies, its not really that bad to turn.
Now, compared to my first car(1964 Fairlane), it had a manual steering....it was no easier than what I'm running now on the bird.
you can tell a car with the power steering off over a car that is built without power. If you drive one you could see the better steering. Now for the track, there is not much reason to do it, unless you get the car "sideways" then you will be thanking everyone if you have the correct rack in the car....Rich
don't know if this makes much difference, but I don't run the pump.....just have the lines at the rack routed together..
That is what a lot of people do. It is harder to turn that setup then it is to use a rack from a mustang II. There is also the weight that you save. I admit it is not a lot of weight, but it is some.....Rich