**My SC problems**

Jacob_Royer

SCCoA Member
When i go to start to start the SC it acts out of time.. cranks slow and acts like its trying to fire at the wrong time etc.. half to half floor it to get it to start then it runs like complete garbage for about 30 seconds and smooths out. So far ive tried the following.

Battery
Ignition switch
Cam POS sensor
DIS
Checked the timming its dead on spec


Other parts i have:

Coil pack
Engine wirring harness

Could i have possibly stabbed the cam pos stalk wrong when i rebuilt it? would it make the car NOT run properly and act out of time and have no balls off the line?
 
Last edited:
When i go to start to start the SC it acts out of time.. cranks slow and acts like its trying to fire at the wrong time etc.. half to half floor it to get it to start then it runs like complete garbage for about 30 seconds and smooths out. So far ive tried the following.

Battery
Ignition switch
Cam POS sensor
DIS
Checked the timming its dead on spec


Other parts i have:

Coil pack
Engine wirring harness

Could i have possibly stabbed the cam pos stalk wrong when i rebuilt it? would it make the car NOT run properly and act out of time and have no balls off the line?

Of course it's possible you could have stabbed the CPS wrong. It has to be timed much like a distributor (only different). Do a search and follow the instructions. You starting problems are compounded by the fact that you have 40% bigger injectors and haven't done anything to correct for that.
 
Sorry, thought you had 42's in it. If you did not time the cam sensor then it can't run right.
 
Im going to try to get this cam pos sensor deal checked out. Also changing the engine harness as some of the plugs are not in the greatest shape (cant hurt anything) And the blower swap and plug wires.. HOPEFULY this will get it to run right.. It just progresivily gets worse.. It got the the point of being almost undrivable.
 
Sorry, thought you had 42's in it. If you did not time the cam sensor then it can't run right.

I THINK i got it right the first time but.... i very well could have ben 180deg out or somthing...

BTW i know the blower has isues since it only makes 8psi with a 5% blower and 5% js
 
I need to get it straightened out so i can drive it a couple weeks.. Need to do a clutch in the mustang and an OR H pipe while i have it apart.
 
If ya can Id try moving the cam sensor counter clockwise about an inch....If she turns over slow most of the time your timing is too far advanced....I time by ear..Might be why my cars are slw but thats another topic....I get the motor nice and hot and find where my car starts at its limits...
 
That alignment was correct, just make sure the motor is at 26' ATC on COMPRESSION when setting it. At 180 out I doubt that it would run.

I'm starting to think that most of your problems might be related to the blower. The blower is a very tight tolerance and sealed component. It can't be just "tossed" together quick and be expected to work properly. I'm thinking you may be quite correct in your earlier assessment that the case was leaking and that may be your whole problem.

There is no way to check timing of either the cam sensor or the crank sensor other than to follow the procedure for setting it. The ignition timing will always read 10 deg when checked according to procedure. It cannot be adjusted and it cannot be anything other than 10 deg.
 
I thought you were changing the blower?..Whjats your vacuum at idle at?

Also what MAF did you use and its calibration..A mustang calibration is different then an SC in case you didnt alreayd know?
 
I have the stock maf and stock injectors.. Have not had time to change the blower yet trying to get it done this week! Idles around 10/11hg
 
I have the stock maf and stock injectors.. Have not had time to change the blower yet trying to get it done this week! Idles around 10/11hg

Umm, this is at 800rpm or so?
Mine, at 1000rpm (needs to be lowered.) has about 20in of vaccuum.
At 800rpm it's 16-17in. So obviously, you have a nice leak somewhere. Have you ever sprayed everything down with ether?

Also, as far as making only 8psi, you need to check out the FAQ for how to check for boost leaks. Pressurize the intake, and then spray it down with soapy water. My car ran good, and I had quite a few leaks.
 
Umm, this is at 800rpm or so?
Mine, at 1000rpm (needs to be lowered.) has about 20in of vaccuum.
At 800rpm it's 16-17in. So obviously, you have a nice leak somewhere. Have you ever sprayed everything down with ether?
You might want to notice that he has an aftermarket cam. 10-11" based on the stock gauge is not abnormal.
 
Idle is around 750rpm ish.. Ive been working funky hours and have a bunch of crap going on at home or i would have the stupid blower swapped by now! wanted to do the plug wires at the same time (i think it might be easier??)
 
Back
Top