Back in the SC yayy, then boom, nayy :(

[mkbrower]

I agree with mr. Fishbone. Need check/fix ignition problem first. Put a timing light on it and see if ignition is working and in time. Would also show if anything is wrong internally.
Mark

[89tird]

[QUOTE=S_Mazza;993670]The fuel pump runs when the fuel pump relay is bypassed, so the pump looks okay for now.

Let me check the EVTM ...

Ok, first thing to check is this. With the key ON, is there +12V at one side of the inertia switch connector?

If there is +12V there, but the fuel pump does not run, then the EEC is not grounding the fuel pump relay control circuit. Either it's telling you something, or there's a fault there.

If there is no +12V at the inertia switch, then...

Turn the key ON and check for +12V at the fat Red wire at one of the corners of the IRCM connector. Leave it plugged in and use a long straight pin to backprobe the connector.

If +12V is on the Red wire, but does not reach the inertia switch, then you have a loose or cut wire between the two.

If +12V is not showing up on the Red wire, then check for +12V at the fat Yellow wire on the opposite wall of the connector. The Yellow wire should have +12V at all times.

I f +12V is not showing up on the Yellow wire, then check the 30A EEC fuse and wiring.

If +12V is on the Yellow wire, but not the Red wire, then check for +12V at the control side of the EEC relay. This should be a Red / Light Green wire running into the IRCM connector. (This is an odd one, where both ends of the control circuit get +12V, but a voltage inverter inside the IRCM converts one half to -12V.) Anyway, if both the Yellow and the Red / Light Green wires have +12V, then the EEC relay inside the IRCM should be switching. If you still get no +12V at the fat Red wire, then you need to test the EEC relay itself. Pull out the IRCM, then drill out the rivets in the corners. Find the EEC relay inside and touch a 9V battery across the control terminals and see if it clicks.

If it clicks, then it suggests that the voltage inverter might be bad instead. I don't know much about that thing, but I guess you can replace it with some basic soldering skills.

If the relay does not click when 9V is applied, then you need to replace it. You could pay $100+ for a rebuilt IRCM, or just buy a $10 relay and solder it in.

Now, if you do not get +12V at the Red / Light Green wire, then you need to check the 30A ignition fuse.

If the fuse is okay, then check for +12V at the feed to the fuse.

If the feed to the ignition fuse does not provide +12V when the key is ON, then the problem is in the ignition switch or wiring.
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Wow, I just spent a really long time on that. See what you made me do? LOL. [/ QUOTE]

Lol wow thanks Man. I really appreciate it, you have always helped me out, im going to Check those measurements tomorrow.

[89tird]

Wow I feel dumb, I overlooked the small stuff, it was the ignition fuse under hood, now that I think back the tranny shop found this fuse blown and car didnt start,something is blowing it. I only noticed because there was a 40 amp in there. So after thr car was idleing for 20 min the low press A/C line blew dumping all the fresh freon , it never ends with these cars.

I wanna thank all you guys who took the time to help me out.

[S_Mazza]

Well, at least it's running.

Glad you found it. But now you have put a bug in my ear about what could be blowing your Ignition fuse. Ah well, maybe tomorrow.

Lost your freon - yikes! Was it just the o-rings that let go?

[89tird]

Originally Posted by S_Mazza

Well, at least it's running.

Glad you found it. But now you have put a bug in my ear about what could be blowing your Ignition fuse. Ah well, maybe tomorrow.

Lost your freon - yikes! Was it just the o-rings that let go?

Lol, could be o rings, I dont know, I took a sniff of the freon trying to find the leak and it was enough for me to walk away for the day.