Rear main?

[schwalbe]

The rearmain, how do you replace it? Does the crank have to be dropped?

[nmcbchief]

Rear main bearing? Yes remove crank.

[90sc35thann]

If you are referring to the rear main seal then the simplest way is to remove the transmission and then either remove your flexplate or flywheel and pop out the old seal and insert the new one. it's easy to repair once the transmission is out of the car. It totally sucks too, because you end up working many hours for a cheap $20 seal that take all of about 2 minutes to change once the transmission is out.

[schwalbe]

That's what I figured. I just wanted to make sure the seal was that easy. Thanks for the info.

[DrFishbone]

Originally Posted by schwalbe

That's what I figured. I just wanted to make sure the seal was that easy. Thanks for the info.

Alot of times the rear main seals on these cars actually wears a groove into the crank. If this is the case, even after you replace the seal, it will still leak. Felpro has a sleeve kit to help...

However...I installed the sleeve and new seal when re-installing my engine, but I still ended up with a leak back there. Maybe I just did something dumb that I haven't realized yet...

[schwalbe]

It's only got like 105k on it so I am hoping for the best

[90sc35thann]

You can only use the sleeve with a neoprene style rear main seal. The ptfe seal recommends against using a sleeve and be advised you are not to use any grease on the ptfe seal as it wil leak.

[DrFishbone]

Originally Posted by 90sc35thann

You can only use the sleeve with a neoprene style rear main seal. The ptfe seal recommends against using a sleeve and be advised you are not to use any grease on the ptfe seal as it wil leak.

Right. I think the Felpro box had this info on it too.

You also have to buy a special tool to install it...

[90sc35thann]

Originally Posted by DrFishbone

Right. I think the Felpro box had this info on it too.

You also have to buy a special tool to install it...

typically the ptfe seals come with a dispoable plastic installation tool. It's nothing more than a plastic sleeve you remove once the seal is installed. I have had good luck with the ptfe seals. My crankshaft also had a groove in it as well. I just rebuilt my engine and saw this. It is very agravating as I am still trying to wrap my head around how a cheesy rubber seal can wear a forged steel crankshaft. LOL I am firing the motor up this weekend for the first time so I hope I don't have the dreaded drip, drip, drip. LOL Then again most forced induction engines develop leaks over time as they build up a significant more amount of crankcase pressure as the engine ages.

[schwalbe]

All they had is the rubber seal so I just got that hopefully it will work

[RalphP]

Originally Posted by 90sc35thann

... I am still trying to wrap my head around how a cheesy rubber seal can wear a forged steel crankshaft.

Before I replaced the harmonic balancer on my 2000 Malibu (at almost 300Kmiles on it!), I was leaking a quart every 1200 miles. Swapped the balancer (which was grooved), and now I'm at > 3,000 miles per quart.

I'm still trying to figure that out also.

(Actually had to add at 4,200 miles - been running, haven't changed it yet. Can't be TOO bad, car has 323Kmiles on the original motor and tranny ... )

RwP

[Mike Puckett]

The rear main on my new built motor leaks slightly, too, so I don't feel so bad now. I couldn't get the teflon seal to fit with the mains torqued so I used the neoprene. I should have put it in before I torqued the mains for the last time. I think I'll clip a sponge to it and change it every month. I'll redo it next time I pull the tranny.
My old balancer leaked oil, too. It runs down the crank snout, thru the press fit and out from under the washer.

[mywhite89]

Including the original rebuild, I have replaced the rear main seal 3 times on my 89, and it still leaks. I don't see a groove but I need to do the speedy sleeve repair to it. The 95 had a rear main leak and a visible groove on the crank. Did the speedy sleeve and it worked great. Comes with a round enclose cup that you smack it on with. You have to pull the rear main cap off to do it though. I may pull the engine out on my car this year and freshen some things like that up so I don't have any leaks(HOPEFULLY). That and the thermostat housing coolant leak I cannot successfully fix on the 89. I need a hero.

chris

[BirdofPrey97]

Sheet rock screw is what I use to get them out. Just drill it up in there until it bites (by hand) and pull the old seal out. Check the crank with a mirror all the way around and install the new seal with a slight coating of oil or tranny fluid on it.

[1qwik99]

I am in the process of buying a 95'SC A.T, blue mist metallic, with 56K miles on it. The seller told me, and sent pictures indicating that there is possibly a rear main seal leak. The car has been sitting in a garage on a trickle charger and started once or twice a month for the past 8-10 years. The rest of the car looks extremely good for its age. My questions are:

1. How much should it cost to repair at a shop / dealership

2. Has anyone here used AT-205 stop leak as shown on Youtube? have they been successful? Amazon.com sells it and it got 56 ratings, most of them were 4-5 stars.

Thanks for your input. Rick.... a newbe to SC's.