Oil pan

[seawalkersee]

Two things: I started using a different style of RTV called "The Right Stuff" which actually feels like rubber when it is cured. I have used it on some different things and one of the race guys I hang out with uses it on all of his high winding race cars.

I think Kevin Leitem has found the limit of whatever year block he had ('cause he split it). Is it possible to have the thicker ridges like shown with a thicker plate on the front and rear that will help seal and help stiffen the block? Is that even pheasable?

SWS

[pro street rich]

I think Kevin Leitem has found the limit of whatever year block he had ('cause he split it). Is it possible to have the thicker ridges like shown with a thicker plate on the front and rear that will help seal and help stiffen the block? Is that even pheasable?

SWS[/QUOTE]

You have to remember that there is not a lot of room between the stock oil pan and the "K" member already...
Now on another note, I have used both types of pans with some mixed results. I have also made gaskets before from sheet stock. This is one way around the flat style..
There is also a lot of different style's of scavage systems that you can put on your engine. If you are worried about blow by then this is a simple way to clean out the pressure in the crankcase. This is something that will also help you run better, rather than blowing seals and whatever else you have.
Now there is one more idea you can try. You could put a peice of alumium along side the pan with holes drilled to match. This would do two things. First it would allow you to tighting the bolts tighter without really doing that. By putting the pressure over a much larger area you will seal better and get an added bonus. This would also add some meet to the block rails. Not sure how much that this would help, but it is worth the try.......Rich

[seawalkersee]

I know there is little room, but you can always shorten the sides of the pan depending on how thick the rails may be. I will probably not be anywhere near the rpm level that is a MUST for a stiff pan, but I think it would be nice insurance for a hard 1-2 drive if something would let go.

SWS

[XxSlowpokexX]

David..I know...But using a sheet metal pan the stiffining rails would help with the pan distortion

[XR7 Dave]

Originally Posted by bowez

I've run into a problem, just a delay nothing major. Backward engineering isn't easy.

Space in any/every direction is limited, but if twisting is an issue after the prototype is produced and tested I will address it.

Is this oil pan ever going to happen? I seriously need to know because if it isn't I'm going to have one made. I have 3 months of winter ahead of me and am not willing/able to wait longer than that. If I'm going to have Stef's make a pan within that timeframe, I need to get an order in now. Thanks.

[bowez]

Work has been horrible 68hrs+ a week I've had no time to work on it as of late.

In the past week we are down to 40hrs and been needing to catch up with things around the house.

Dave I would suggest you not plan on mine (figuring this down time not to be too long, since seem to be a supplier induced issue), in your time frame.

I do plan on trying to start on it again come Monday. If all goes perfectly I could be done in the 3 months but I'd rather you serve your customer first.

[bowez]

Ok looks like we aren't ever going to get a break at work. If anyone is interested in giving me a hand finishing the drawings let me know. More than trying to make any money of this I would like to get this made to actually serve the community.

Besides work the other big issue is my CAD skills are no where near what they were 10yrs ago.

[Hock]

Originally Posted by bowez

Ok looks like we aren't ever going to get a break at work. If anyone is interested in giving me a hand finishing the drawings let me know. More than trying to make any money of this I would like to get this made to actually serve the community.

Besides work the other big issue is my CAD skills are no where near what they were 10yrs ago.

I can get a model and the appropriate drawings done for this if I can get the sketches of what we would like done. I don't think it would take me much time at all to do it.

[rlittlep]

I'm on the tail end of this thread,{due to my Mom's illness/death} I would be "in" for a pan for myself.
Bob

[Hock]

Just to give an update, I received mostly everything I need from bowez to design this oil pan. There is still some info I need to hear back on from him but other than that I think this should be back on track. I'm not sure how long this will take me as I will be doing it all in my free time but I will work as quickly as possible to get this done.

[Hock]

Here's some pictures of where I am at with the model of the oil pan. One thing worth noting with this is that I decided to make mounting flange 3/16 thick (this can be increased) to better resemble the factory cast piece and ensure that we will continue not to need an oil pan gasket. I still have a few things left to do before I can send it back to bowez but as you all can see its getting there in a short time.

[BLOWN38]

Keep up the good work. A thicker flange would be better.

[Hock]

Originally Posted by BLOWN38

Keep up the good work. A thicker flange would be better.

Whats the factory pan flange thickness?

[neverfastenough]

I know it looks nicer, but I suggest removing some of the fillets in your drawing. IF someone like canton is going to build that, and you converted it to sheet in the program your using, it would be all goofed up from the fillet radius used. They will be butting up flat peices of aluminum. SW and Inventor both have stuff for welds if you just want to throw that in there instead of fillets. Of course the fillets could be left on pieces the fabricator may bend to shape.

[BLOWN38]

Stock flange is .250". But thats cast.