Car Trailer

nickleman60

Registered User
I found a car trailer that I'm going to pick up tomorrow. It's an 18' open style and it's brand new. I took Dave's advice and checked out the Truck Accessory center in Moyock, NC and they had something that'll work for me and the price is $1990. Now I'll have no excuses concerning going to the track or anywhere else for that matter.
 
I found a car trailer that I'm going to pick up tomorrow. It's an 18' open style and it's brand new. I took Dave's advice and checked out the Truck Accessory center in Moyock, NC and they had something that'll work for me and the price is $1990. Now I'll have no excuses concerning going to the track or anywhere else for that matter.


Sounds like a great price. Is it a tilt style or have ramps. Always nice to have ones own trailer to haul with;)

Ken
 
Sounds like a great price. Is it a tilt style or have ramps. Always nice to have ones own trailer to haul with;)

Ken

It has pull out ramps just like a U-Haul rental trailer. All steel construction with an open center, just your basic trailer.
 
I found a car trailer that I'm going to pick up tomorrow. It's an 18' open style and it's brand new. I took Dave's advice and checked out the Truck Accessory center in Moyock, NC and they had something that'll work for me and the price is $1990. Now I'll have no excuses concerning going to the track or anywhere else for that matter.

Im glad they had something that would work. I wouldnt buy anything from Superior Trailer here in Virginia Beach. They are way overpriced and they are not the most friendly people in the world when you have a problem. I have a few friends with enclosed trailers that they use for MX who have bought them there(Gotten Ripped off) and taken them back for service and they completely rip them off again. Just my .02 though. I have purchased all of mine from TAC where I told you to look. They are atleast 20-30% cheaper...and you can actually talk to them and have them listen. The dude at Superior knows everything...
 
I picked it up this morning, $1990 out the door. I got it home and started figuring out the best way to load. I still have a clearance issue with the Xenon front air dam because it sits so low. Instead of sliding wood ramps under the steel ramps to lessen the angle like I've done in the past, I decided to take a page from a couple of rigs I saw at Pinks and raise the rear truck tires. I slid my wood ramps I already had under the tires of the truck, backed up on them and it worked fine. I also have an issue with the fenders not being removable and my door will not clear them by about 1/2". I decided to bolt on (2) 2x12x16 boards which will raise it 1.5" so that takes care of that. I ordered 2 sets of tie-down strap kits from Jegs, along with a couple of other items, and when they come in I'll make a trial run on straping it down. The only problem I still have to figure out is how to get it in my driveway, trailer sits low and my driveway is angled..........to be continued.:(:(:(
 
I picked it up this morning, $1990 out the door. I got it home and started figuring out the best way to load. I still have a clearance issue with the Xenon front air dam because it sits so low. Instead of sliding wood ramps under the steel ramps to lessen the angle like I've done in the past, I decided to take a page from a couple of rigs I saw at Pinks and raise the rear truck tires. I slid my wood ramps I already had under the tires of the truck, backed up on them and it worked fine. I also have an issue with the fenders not being removable and my door will not clear them by about 1/2". I decided to bolt on (2) 2x12x16 boards which will raise it 1.5" so that takes care of that. I ordered 2 sets of tie-down strap kits from Jegs, along with a couple of other items, and when they come in I'll make a trial run on straping it down. The only problem I still have to figure out is how to get it in my driveway, trailer sits low and my driveway is angled..........to be continued.:(:(:(
Worthless without pictures....
 
Nothing special but here's the pics. I still need to put the wheel stops on the boards. I also riveted some sheet aluminum to the trailer tongue area to give me a flat surface to mount a spare tire, tool box or winch in the future.
 

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Thats gotta be one light trailer. Electric brakes?? My trailer weighed in at 2400 lbs. putting a wheel stop on is really nice and will help keep it from sliding forward as well as getting it in the right spot every time. You might want to check tongue weight to be sure it is enough to keep the trailer from swerving down the road

Ken
 
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Looks pretty good. And I agree with Ken....It looks light. My only concern would be side to side movement of the car (Rear)sitting on the wood. Make sure you strap her real good.
 
I'll have 2 sets of these coming tomorrow, I'll have 1 on each corner. It won't be light with 3700 lbs of car on it.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80136/10002/-1

You can cross the two rear straps in a X if you think side motion could be a problem. I am borrowing straps, for the moment, untill I can get a set bought of my own. I should have my trailer paid for this month and I still have to look into a winch to purchase. These are the straps I use now. They have a D ring that allows the strap to make a loup and attach to its self and have a sleeve that protects the strap from rubbing.

Ken
 

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If you feel the need to cross the straps to make an "X" suggest doing that on the front. I destroyed a set of straps on the way to the OKC meet in 2005 when crossing the rear straps. Since that happened I don't cross mine anymore.

David
 
If you feel the need to cross the straps to make an "X" suggest doing that on the front. I destroyed a set of straps on the way to the OKC meet in 2005 when crossing the rear straps. Since that happened I don't cross mine anymore.

David

How did that happen? I am just curious.

Ken
 
How did that happen? I am just curious.

Ken

From them rubbing Ken. I did the same thing a few years ago towing a car from Delaware to here. The nylon straps dont like to rub or move on anything. They will get hot and snap or shred. I prefer chains myself...no worries then...especially when you are in the middle of nowhere!
 
From them rubbing Ken. I did the same thing a few years ago towing a car from Delaware to here. The nylon straps dont like to rub or move on anything. They will get hot and snap or shred. I prefer chains myself...no worries then...especially when you are in the middle of nowhere!

I can see that happening but than would not the same problem be if you cross them in the front as David suggested? I never did cross straps when hauling my car on a borrowed trailer. I put the hold downs on my new trailer where I thought they would do the best at holding the car in place without crossing

Ken
 
Ive towed a few cars and always use chains. Ive gone on a few trips with Gary Bitzer, and he uses 4 of the wheel nets and thats it.

Corey
 
I can see that happening but than would not the same problem be if you cross them in the front as David suggested? I never did cross straps when hauling my car on a borrowed trailer. I put the hold downs on my new trailer where I thought they would do the best at holding the car in place without crossing

Ken
When crossing the straps in the front, David and I use the holes next to the frame rails and behind the front wheels. From there, the only thing the straps can rub on is each other. On the rears, I think David's straps rubbed on the rear sub-frame, but I don't remember exactly. I do remember helping him find replacement straps at a truck-stop on our way to OKC.

For the rear, I just loop through the lower control arms. Luckily, I have a bit more room to strap since the back of my car hangs over the dove tail section of the trailer.
 
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