DrFishbone Engine Build Thread 2017

Also...I found out (too late) that the service manual says the hardlines to the pressure chambers must be replaced if removed. I'm not going to do it. We'll see what happens, I guess.


Might be the concern is they can rust from the inside and develop pinhole leaks that are bear to locate and deal with post-install. I'd be sure to clean them up and inspect carefully, at a minimum. Replacing them now might save heartache later ;)

Ken
 
Might be the concern is they can rust from the inside and develop pinhole leaks that are bear to locate and deal with post-install. I'd be sure to clean them up and inspect carefully, at a minimum. Replacing them now might save heartache later ;)

Ken

That reason had crossed my mind too.

We'll see what happens, if anything I guess.
 
Guess I'll put this here too.... FMIC / radiator layout in AutoCAD....hopefully will minimize surprises and fitment issues!

FMIC dwg.PNG
 
Engine bay is soooo close to ready for paint. Still need to do some paint scuffing on the firewall.

I decided to put off the rust repair I noted earlier (driver's shock tower-to-doghouse frame) for when the whole body finally gets bodywork/paint. Looks like I need to cut a section out and weld another back in....they put foam junk in that boxed-in section that holds moisture and probably battery fumes...so it rusts from the inside-out. :mad:

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Engine rebuild

hey , if your ever close to West Lafayette , Indiana . Stop by and take a look at one of my SCs . got something wrong with the engine , runs but has this weird dry black exhaust coming out , and then my oil cap has pressure coming out of it . I checked the fuel PSI , setting there running with 42 Pound injectors , shows 34-35 psi give it some gas and it jumps to 40=41 psi . I'm not sure what is wrong .
I will pay for the help , just need to know what it is , you seem to know your stuff on there cars , And your in Indiana . My e mail Ballman32@aol.com

phone 765 567 0252 ..............Dan



Got parts if you need any , for the help or cash will work too .
 
got something wrong with the engine , runs but has this weird dry black exhaust coming out , and then my oil cap has pressure coming out of it . My e mail Ballman32@aol.com

phone 765 567 0252 ..............Dan


Dan,
If you have excessive pressure at our oil fill cap it will be caused by excessive blow-by on the pistons most likely. You could easily have a piston with a hole in it or more likely broken rings lands on the pistons.

Try this: While the car is running, open the oil fill cap and see if you are getting pulsing air equal to or in sync with the rpms of the engine, coming out of the fill tube. If so, time for a rebuild my friend.

Smitty
 
SC engine

crap , it does have that look that when the RPMs are up so is the pressure out of the fill tube . Now there is no one around me that can help me rebuild this one , maybe will have to try to find someone that has a rebuilt engine to do a swap . this engine here has a few goodies on it too ............. So any one out there come across a good rebuilt engine . or was trying to see if this Dr Fishbone could help me . for sure would pay for the help . this is a great car , from a 1 owner and the engine was rebuilt long ago when I first bought it , many years ago . at that time Bill Hull who was high up there in the club did the rebuild .

I'm sure I could pull the engine , but then need someone to do the rebuild .

but thanks a lot for the reply . At least I know more and will need to go to the next step . Was strange that the fuel PSI went from 33 to 41 with the 42 pound injectors , I thought it would be 42 PSI at all times ?? And then that weird black suet looking exhaust , not sure what that is ?????



Dan
 
crap , it does have that look that when the RPMs are up so is the pressure out of the fill tube . Now there is no one around me that can help me rebuild this one , maybe will have to try to find someone that has a rebuilt engine to do a swap . this engine here has a few goodies on it too ............. So any one out there come across a good rebuilt engine . or was trying to see if this Dr Fishbone could help me . for sure would pay for the help . this is a great car , from a 1 owner and the engine was rebuilt long ago when I first bought it , many years ago . at that time Bill Hull who was high up there in the club did the rebuild .

I'm sure I could pull the engine , but then need someone to do the rebuild .

but thanks a lot for the reply . At least I know more and will need to go to the next step . Was strange that the fuel PSI went from 33 to 41 with the 42 pound injectors , I thought it would be 42 PSI at all times ?? And then that weird black suet looking exhaust , not sure what that is ?????

Dan

Hi Dan - life almost too busy for my own SC right now and I have work in queue for another member already too...so unless you can wait awhile, you'd probably be better off looking for help from one of the pros. I've been in the Lafayette area once (I think it was to deliver the white leather seats to you!) but I'm almost never up that way, or I'd be glad to try to help. Have you contacted David Dalke? (XR7Dave) If you have non-stock internals now, he'd probably be the best bet if you need a rebuild and want to reuse your current motor. If you just want/need a stock rebuilt shortblock, I might be able to help in a few months....I'd be slow moving though.
 
Ok - so for a few more updates...time is running out, but the car should be moving into the garage in the next couple of days (so weekday night-time work will be possible!)

Got a few more things buttoned-up on the motor...put on the "prototype" or maybe more accurately "trial" valve covers. I had thrown them in the "trash" earlier this year....fortunately the "trash" was inside one of the parts cars awaiting the scrapyard trip, so I hung onto them to try out a different style of crankcase ventilation/evacuation rather than hack-up a nice set of magnesium covers. ;) Unfortunately, the steel valve covers aren't tall enough for the rockers / studs.

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And got my dad to spray some paint in the engine bay....it's so shiny. :eek:

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Engine rebuild

Yes, Thanks for the reply . I did get with Dave D. and looks like he will doing the rebuild . for now just getting the engine out and ready to take up to him. All is going good so far . Hope it will be an easy rebuild , with just the rings being bad .
Looks like your almost done and ready to do the install . Yes , it was years ago with that white fold down seat , witch I still have and now will not need , anyone need a fold down seat..........I have one .

Thanks, DW:D
 
You aren't going to like those Mag valve covers with the solid roller and setting valve lash occasionally. I suggest going back to the steel ones, installing spacers and a set of studs. Trust me on this one. I have spacers in stock so no excuse. lol
 
You aren't going to like those Mag valve covers with the solid roller and setting valve lash occasionally. I suggest going back to the steel ones, installing spacers and a set of studs. Trust me on this one. I have spacers in stock so no excuse. lol

My excuse is $$$ right now...lol

I do have studs already though. ;)
 
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Got the steering rack bolted up last night....I left the inner and outer tie rod adjustments alone, so shouldn't need an alignment. :cool: Also cleaned the front swaybar a little and painted it, since it would look out of place. :rolleyes: Couldn't quite get the car in the garage with the little time I had last night, plus dad has a few things he wants to move too. Should be tonight! I expect things to move much quicker once I don't have the daylight constraint anymore.

I hope to bolt in the swaybar with new bushings, bleed the front brakes and put the front wheels back on and roll it into the garage this evening. Might clean up a couple other parts....it's SOOOO much nicer assembling clean / new parts!! :D

If all goes well, I may be dropping the engine / transmission into the car on Thursday night. The big thing after that is getting the radiator and IC mounted and tubed up. Hopefully the flux core stainless MIG wire I bought will do the trick and look OK. Hmm...probably better test it sooner rather than later.

Any tips on MIG welding SS? I've done it with my arc welder before and it turned out ok...just not pretty....I'm thinking MIG will be tons easier than trying to weld thin SS with an arc welder though.
 
Went camping with the family this weekend, but did manage to get the engine harness re-installed, modified, cleaned up, re-routed, etc. I think the engine bay is ready for the motor/transmission.

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Yesterday, I had a little bit of time and dropped the gas tank and exhaust....need to pull the driveshaft, since I'll be putting the engine/trans in pre-bolted together. Also, planned to replace the stock fuel pump /sending unit connector with the bolt mod. Mine connector looks just fine after about two years of use with the 320lph pump, but it's not worth the risk.
 
Now I'm rollin' :cool:

Trimmed the corse support to fit the new radiator and welded up some brackets on Thursday night / Friday....my fist time MIG welding.....SOOOOO much easier than stick welding on the little things! Making presentable welds is going to take some practice though. I wanted to do all this before the motor was for the sake of dirt and metal shavings getting everywhere and my own comfort. I didn't take any pictures of the radiator yet....I'll get those with the FMIC work. ;)

Then....got the motor and transmission in. Need to put hoses, brackets, etc. back on over the next couple of days, then start on fabb-ing up the FMIC! Hopefully will be able to stay on track.

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