Derek's Project GFP

Just a little update... I decided that I was going to take a crack at porting these E7 heads. I know they are junk and are not really worth the time or money to port... but right now time is free and I doubt that I can make this head worse than it is stock. I found a write up on diyporting.com that gives a decent guide on how to port these heads. If you have never ported a set of heads, its a lot of work, especially these iron heads. I probably have 12 hours in just the one head so far. I am hoping the next one goes a little fast now that I have a feel for it.

Here is what I started with...

stock ports.jpg

push rod port before.jpg


This is where I ended up. There are two places where most of the attention is given. The first one is reducing the size of the valve guide boss. The second is to remove the push rod bumps near the entrance to the ports.

ported.jpg

push rod port work.jpg

I followed the guide just past part 2. Hopefully I will end up with 180cfm at .500 lift as the guy reports. Its not great, but its better than the 159cfm stock. Speaking of .500 lift... I keep thinking about dropping a cheap cam in the motor now, instead of later. I think the F303 cam would be a good fit, if nothing else they sound pretty good. I have already purchased some upgraded valve springs in preparation for the turbo action later.

Other than that, Im still collecting parts here and there. I scored a good deal on a brand new Trickflow intake. I got the correct timing cover for the mustang water pump for Christmas. And I finally got my rod and main clearances where I want them (0.0026ish on the rods and 0.0030ish on the mains).

Hopefully I can get some time over the next couple weeks to finish the other head. It would be nice to begin putting this motor back together by the end of January.
 
Ive been making some progress in this miserable cold weather. Ive gotten the heads put back together and replaced the valve springs with a set of the Trickflow upgrade springs for the stock heads. They should work well with the F303 cam I bought.... yeah, didnt see that one coming did you? I just couldnt bring myself to put the stock cam back in it when the motor was already apart. I spent today degree'ing the cam and installing the Melling HV oil pump. One key piece of this swap is the oil pan, its a fox 351 swap oil pan with 7 quart system capacity. It will require notching the K member some from my research.

valve springs.jpg

1-20-18.jpg

Now i just need to buy some bolts to use for the water pump and timing cover. The old bolts just are not going to work... I switched timing cover/water pump for the shorter version.
 
I have installed the heads and set the Trickflow lower on the motor. I wanted to see how close the ports matched up. Its pretty close for the most part, except for the top. I did not take much material off the top of the port because it was lined up with the gasket already. Once I installed the lower intake manifold, I could see a problem. It looks like the top of the port/gasket blocks a portion injector hole. I ported to the Felpro 1250 gasket. Looks like I need to come up with a way to clear that path. Maybe a bigger gasket and a notch in the top edge of the port?

injector port.jpg
 
Looks like you're having fun! :)

So...the gasket you have don't match the intake...is that what you're saying? What does the intake port look like? Not rectangular? :confused:
 
Looks like you're having fun! :)

So...the gasket you have don't match the intake...is that what you're saying? What does the intake port look like? Not rectangular? :confused:

It looks like the injector bore on the intake is drilled such that it hits the top of the port. its worse on one side of the intake than the other, but with the angle, both sides look similar when installed.

1250 to head.jpg
1250 to intake.jpg
tf lower injector bore.jpg
 
It looks like the injector bore on the intake is drilled such that it hits the top of the port. its worse on one side of the intake than the other, but with the angle, both sides look similar when installed.

Sorry if I missed it - were the heads and/or block decked/milled?
 
I see...the heads are fine, its the intake manifold that is either designed funky or has been milled.

I think I'd do like you said Derek - work a little dimple into the head...might have to trim the gasket a hair.
 
I see...the heads are fine, its the intake manifold that is either designed funky or has been milled.

I think I'd do like you said Derek - work a little dimple into the head...might have to trim the gasket a hair.

yeah thats pretty much what i did. now to slap a little paint on it and buy some more parts. :D



I should be able to get the car inspected soon. Once that is out of the way I will pull the motor. If anyone is interested in my current motor, please message me.
 
I got a few more pieces in since the last update. I painted the block and heads so they look a little more presentable. A mustang fuel rail with some AN efi adapters came in last week. The valve covers I had were really rusty, so i picked up some cheapo valve covers from summit... well worth the $25 compared to trying to clean up the others. I scored some used 60lb injectors today. That should support close to 600whp which should hold me until I really build the motor. It looks like I will probably need to come up with a different adapter for the ECT sensor, seems a little tall, lol. :)

mockup01.jpg

mockup02.jpg
 
Brings back a lot of memories. The fitting for ECT sensor and heater hoses was a pain in the azz on my 347 motor with Victor Jr intake, looks like you will have similar issues.

David
 
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Just cut a hole in the hood for the ECT.

Looking good, Derek! :cool:

When do you think you'll be ready to drop it into the car?
 
Just cut a hole in the hood for the ECT.

Looking good, Derek! :cool:

When do you think you'll be ready to drop it into the car?

Ive still got a few things to assemble on the motor. I think i will be ready to pull the current motor out in a few weeks (March) and then the new one starts to go in... Im not going to use the term "drop in", because I have to cut/box the k member for the oil pan and make some motor mounts. After that Ive still got to...
1. upgrade the fuel lines. I doubt the existing ones are going to reach the mustang rail.
2. swap out the flywheel and starter
3. swap the harness, eec, and make needed wiring changes
4. swap the tach
5. patch up the exhaust
6. get a hood to fit

It would be nice to fire it up in April sometime. I just depends on what I run into along the way.


Im going to see how low I can mount the motor to help with keeping the cowl hood to a reasonable size. It looks really tall now, so Im sure every little bit will help. I do plan on keeping the M5R2. I dont really have a plan or budget to swap that out. I wish we had other options besides a T-56.
 
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Brings back a lot of memories. The fitting for ECT sensor and heater hoses was a pain in the azz on my 347 motor with Victor Jr intake, looks like you will have similar issues.

David

Im seriously thinking about ditching the heater hoses. I have already planned on ditching the AC. Lets face it, Im not going to drive the car when its that below freezing anyways.

It would not be hard to modify the existing part and run a line straight back to the water pump.
 
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