Lentech AOD Street Terminator Review

Kurt check your e-mail. My man sent you the technique. :)

Update on the noise: I haven't been able to reproduce it. I'm not really going to sweat it as if it was something major it should have been really acting up. I'll be going underneath to take a look shortly when the transmission cooler gets here.
 
Toms-SC said:
Kurt check your e-mail. My man sent you the technique. :)

Update on the noise: I haven't been able to reproduce it. I'm not really going to sweat it as if it was something major it should have been really acting up. I'll be going underneath to take a look shortly when the transmission cooler gets here.
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I'd like to know how he did it too....
 
Tom,

What a write up. If I ever have homework to do I know where I am going and ya I might steal your lunch money too! I love my Lentech tranny. The only issues I have had is that a couple of times it would not go into gear when its cold and one time it would not go into D on its own. I just had a tranny service and I checked the fluid level after racing it 7 times and it was down about 3/4 of a liter. Lentech says that is what likely causing the weird shifting. The place I had do the service went by the book instead of reading the dipstick. I hope nothing is damaged!:mad: It does not stink and it shifts great so I think its all good. BTW.. you will need to dig a little deeper if you wanna catch me.!!:D
 
Since the radiator's transmission cooler will still be there, might as well use it to "pre-cool" the fluid entering the aftermarket fluid cooler. :cool: Doing it the other way around might cool the fluid, then warm it back up, depending on water and trans fluid temps.
 
DrFishbone said:
Since the radiator's transmission cooler will still be there, might as well use it to "pre-cool" the fluid entering the aftermarket fluid cooler. :cool: Doing it the other way around might cool the fluid, then warm it back up, depending on water and trans fluid temps.
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Correct.


David
 
Kurt K said:
I'm curious, how the heck did he drop the driveshaft without dropping the tank or the differential? That's a trick I need to know.
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Shoot, include me also. Thats got to be at least 2-3 hours saved each way. I think its worth a note in the members forums. ;)
 
Note that if it's a daily driver and you run it in the winter (i.e. cold) you should investigate bypass valves that are used on some truck tranny coolers. This allows the fluid to bypass the external cooler if the fluid temp is too low so it doesn't make it colder.
 
OK.. I hit post reply before reading any more of the thread.. On the removing the trans w/o dropping the diff or the gas tank.. it occurs to me that there is one piece that can be disassembled that will allow the yolk to be detached from the driveshaft and hence the transmission removed...

That piece is the front u-joint. Am I right? :D :D I mean, you take the front exhaust+resonator off and its just sitting there right in the open.
 
TbirdSCFan said:
OK.. I hit post reply before reading any more of the thread.. On the removing the trans w/o dropping the diff or the gas tank.. it occurs to me that there is one piece that can be disassembled that will allow the yolk to be detached from the driveshaft and hence the transmission removed...

That piece is the front u-joint. Am I right? :D :D I mean, you take the front exhaust+resonator off and its just sitting there right in the open.
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Hello guys, i can finally post, newb thing.

You are right, pop apart the front u joint and remove Trans cross member and a few other little things and pull it out the front. :D

Enjoy the short cut, if you wish to try it.


Steve
 
turbo2point3 said:
Hello guys, i can finally post, newb thing.

You are right, pop apart the front u joint and remove Trans cross member and a few other little things and pull it out the front. :D

Enjoy the short cut, if you wish to try it.


Steve
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Welcome to our world Steve.


Marty
 
Kurt K said:
Amateur! :)
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LOL.. But, gettin better.. last time it took me 4 hours starting from wheels on the ground to tranny in the garage with a few rain slow downs. I don't move as fast as I used to. Knees ache, stiff joints, etc. But pride won't let me quit until its right. I absolutely refuse to let the AOD claim victory :p
 
It has a premature shift issue during WOT, this was an issue right from the get go. It shifts at 4000 RPM during WOT. Lentech thinks its the TV cable (I doubt it, pull as hard as you can go and done) or the governor (they sent out a replacement). I need to get around to getting a shop to look at it. If this does not fix it you can count on a huge rant bomb post.

Let me tell you about their warranty. Reading into it you are responsible for shipping there and back, near $500. They also charge a fee for looking at it which is also near $500. Add a couple weeks turn around and your out your car and your money for their work. :eek: I'm hoping it does not come to this.

If I had to do it all over again live in Ohio and get DirtyD0g to build one. :) Support the SC locals!
 
Did the pilot on the convertor still fit into the end of the crankshaft with the washers that you used????
I have one for my 5.0L but it has the removable sfi bellhousing and the flexplate is a good inch away from the convertor bolts, so the pilot does not sit in the crank(not good)had a major fluid leak due to convertor wobble.
Called lentech and they said that there was a kit that they sell with an extended crank pilot and spacers so that this would work correctly,did they tell you the same???
I was advised not to use washers.
 
Toms-SC said:
It has a premature shift issue during WOT, this was an issue right from the get go. It shifts at 4000 RPM during WOT. Lentech thinks its the TV cable (I doubt it, pull as hard as you can go and done) or the governor (they sent out a replacement). I need to get around to getting a shop to look at it. If this does not fix it you can count on a huge rant bomb post.

Let me tell you about their warranty. Reading into it you are responsible for shipping there and back, near $500. They also charge a fee for looking at it which is also near $500. Add a couple weeks turn around and your out your car and your money for their work. :eek: I'm hoping it does not come to this.

If I had to do it all over again live in Ohio and get DirtyD0g to build one. :) Support the SC locals!
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Tom,

AODs never shift when they are supposed to....thats why anytime I'm going WOT, I shift it manually.

David
 
The TV cable is there to adjust line pressure. If you have the lentech VB with a TV cable then it should be properly set. This does affect the shift point and wil lead to premature wear of the transmission due to excessive line pressure
 
DamonSlowpokeBaumann said:
The TV cable is there to adjust line pressure. If you have the lentech VB with a TV cable then it should be properly set. This does affect the shift point and wil lead to premature wear of the transmission due to excessive line pressure
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I thought Lentech said that it can't be too tight unless it restricts throttle travel?
 
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