89-92 TEVES Mark II ABS System used in Thunderbird SC and Cougar XR-7
Background
The Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) as we early model owners know, is a
sometimes exasperating system which is very expensive to have a dealer fix.
Unfortunately, it is also a critical sub-system since if it goes bad, more
than likely the braking performance will be severely impaired. There are
though a few relatively common things which can be checked or repaired on a
DIY basis that can save some big bucks. Obviously though the scope of this
article must be somewhat limited since the FORD Shop Manual contains over 100
pages of information on this system and it’s troubleshooting.
ABS was initially developed for aircraft applications and was toyed with
periodically in the 50’s and 70’s in the automotive arena.
The system equipped on our SC’s is the TEVES Mark II ABS System. It was
originally designed and manufactured by the Brake & Chassis Division of ITT
Automotive which was based in White Plains, NY. On September 28, 1998 the
division was acquired by Continental AG of Hanover Germany. The name of the
newly combined company is Continental Teves AG & Co. The Germans must have
liked what they saw since they paid US$1.93 Billion.
The TEVES Mark II ABS System has been equipped on many different cars of the
80’s Included in the list is the Pontiac 6000 STE and 88-90 Riviera and Reatta.
The system also appeared on some SAAB, Mercedes-Benz, Jaguar, Alfa-Romero, and
Lincoln Continentals and Mark VIIs. Unfortunately for us though, ABS was
usually installed as an option, a very expensive one at that so the number of
car equipped with "our" system is rather limited when compared to more widely
used systems like the TEVES Mark IV which the 93 and up SC’s came standard
with. It does open up the chance though that there may be alternatives to FORD
to purchasing some replacement parts. It appears though that there are minor
differences in the design of each different car’s systems. Substitution should
be done only after careful examination and comparison of the parts in
question.
The main difference between the TEVES Mark II and Mark IV systems is that the
Mark II is an integrated ABS System as opposed to the non-integrated system of
the Mark IV. What that means to us is that our system contains all the
controlling hydraulic components into one unit called the Hydraulic Actuator
Assembly. This includes the Hydraulic Power Booster, master cylinder, pump and
motor, valve assembly, and accumulator. On the Mark IV system the ABS system
is basically piggy backed onto a conventional brake system to add ABS
functionality to it.
Basic TEVES Mark II System Operation
The heart of the TEVES Mark II ABS System is the Hydraulic Actuator Assembly.
This assembly is controlled by the Electronic Controller which is mounted in
the Package Tray area of the trunk along side the ARC Computer,. Additional
vital components include the Four Wheel Sensors and Indicator Rings.
Electronic Controller
If the Hydraulic Actuation Assembly is the heart of the ABS System the
Electronic Controller is the brains. It consists of two parallel
microprocessors which operate on the principal of two-channel redundancy for
data processing and plausibility criteria monitoring.
The Controller monitors the system operation under normal driving conditions
as well as during anti-lock braking. Under normal during conditions the
microprocessors send short test pulses to the solenoid valves of the Hydraulic
Actuator Assembly that checks the electrical continuity of the system without
causing the valves in the Solenoid Valve Block Assembly to change position.
When the Electronic Controller senses from the signals that is processes from
the four wheel sensors that one or more wheel is about to lock up, signals are
sent to the appropriate solenoid valves located in the Solenoid Valve Block
Assembly of the Hydraulic Actuator Assembly to allow hydraulic pressure to be
bleed away from the wheel(s) that are about to lock. The lock-up condition is
sensed when one or more wheels is determined to be decelerating faster than
the other wheels. The brake fluid pressure is then reapplied through cycling
of the appropriate valves. This occurs at a rate in excess of 10 times a
second. The cycling will continue until all wheels are decelerating at
approximately the same rate.
The Hydraulic Actuator Assembly is made up of several sub components. These
include:
1) The Hydraulic Actuation Assembly
2) Electric Pump and Accumulator Assembly
3) Solenoid Valve Block Assembly
4) Brake Fluid Reservoir and Level Indicator Assembly
Each of these sub components provides essential functions to the assembly as a
whole. The system is a 3 channel system meaning that brake fluid can be
controlled to each of the two front wheels independently and to the rear
wheels as a unit.
1) The Hydraulic Actuator Assembly
This assembly consists of two sections. The master cylinder and brake booster.
These are arranged in two parallel bores with the master cylinder being below
the brake booster. The brake booster contains a main control valve which is
operated by a lever connected to brake pedal rod. During normal braking when
the brake pedal is pushed, this lever causes the control valve to modulate the
amount of pressurized brake fluid applied to the rear brakes via a
proportioning valve. The control valve also ports brake fluid to the master
cylinder pistons which applies braking pressure to the front brakes. The
source of this pressurized brake fluid is the accumulator which will be
detailed later. Also the fluid must pass through normally open Load Solenoid
valves in the Solenoid Valve Block Assembly. The operation of this assembly
will be detailed later as well.
During the Anti-lock braking mode, the main control valve actuates allowing
pressurized brake fluid to enter a chamber behind the master cylinder pistons
and into the front brake circuits through the appropriate solenoid valves as
required. The pressurized brake fluid also exerts force against a reaction
sleeve which raises the brake pedal. This allows a 70% stroke of the front
brake master cylinder pistons in the unlikely event of an anti-lock
malfunction. The Actuation Assembly, Master Cylinder, booster and main valve
are serviced as an assembly.
The ABS System uses stored high pressure brake fluid as a source for power
assist as well as for the rear brake circuit. The Pump is controlled primarily
by the attached pressure switch which senses Hydraulic Accumulator pressure.
The Accumulator is a Gas filled reservoir which contains a flexible diaphragm.
When the pump runs, it forces brake fluid into the accumulator where it
presses up again the diaphragm. This pressurization continues until pressure
reaches approximately 2650 PSI. At this point the pressure switch opens
allowing the Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay to drop out causing the pump to stop.
The pump motor is protected by an internal thermal switch. If the motor
overheats due to prolonged running (20 minutes continuous or so) the thermal
switch will open shutting off the motor for 2-10 minutes until it cools down.
The electrical operation of the system will be detailed later. The Accumulator
and Pressure Switch are serviced separately while the pump and motor is
serviced as a unit.
3) Solenoid Valve Block Assembly
This assembly houses three pairs of solenoid valve , one for each of the three
channels of the ABS System. The pairs of valves are inlet/outlet valves which
I will call Load and Dump Valves. In normal operation the Load valves are open
and the Dump valves closed. This allows pressurized brake fluid to be properly
ported to the appropriate front brake circuits via the Master Cylinder and
Main Control Valve and the rear circuit via the proportioning valve. During a
Anti-lock condition the circuit for which a wheel is sensed to be in a
potential lock-up condition the inlet valve will shut and the dump valve will
open. This reduces the amount of pressure felt at the wheel for the brake
caliper thus reducing clamping pressure of the brake pads on the brake rotor.
The valves will cycle to Inlet open Dump shut restoring brake pressure. This
cycling will occur up to 10 times per second until the Electronic Controller
senses that "normal" braking has been restored. The Solenoid Valve Block
Assembly is serviced as a separate unit.
4) Brake Fluid Reservoir and Level Indicator Assembly
The Brake Fluid Reservoir and Fluid Level Indicator (FLI) Assembly is a
translucent, plastic container that is mounted on top of the Hydraulic
Actuation Assembly. The reservoir is connected to the pump inlet by a low
pressure hose, and to the master cylinder by a sealed feed port. The FLI
provides a warning signal visa the red Brake Light should the brake fluid
level fall below the proscribed minimum. If level continue to lower this will
cause the Amber Anti-Lock warning light to illuminate as well. Additionally
the Electronic Controller will stop the ABS System from operating. The
reservoir and FLI are serviced as a unit.
Wheel Sensor and Indicator Rings
The ABS Unit uses four sets of variable reluctance sensor and toothed speed
indicator rings. These two devices work together to determine the rotational
speed of each wheel. The work under a magnetic induction principle. As the
teeth on the indicator rings rotate past the stationary sensor a signal
proportional to the rotational speed of the wheel is generated. This voltage
is an analog AC signal which is fed to the Electronic Controller via coaxial
cables, one for each sensor. The frequency of the signal is dependent on how
fast the toothed indicator ring is passing by the stationary sensor. It is the
frequency that is used to determine wheel speed by the Electronic Controller.
On the front wheels the toothed indicator rings are mounted on the back side
of the Hub Assembly. On the rear they are mounted as part of the inner CV
Joint assembly. The front sensors are attached to the front spindle and on the
rear to the axle housing. The indicator rings and speed sensors are serviced
separately. A fine point to be aware of though is that only the correct speed
sensor can be installed at each wheel location. If you decide to get
replacements from the junkyard, make sure you mark the sensors front to back
and left to right and only install the sensor at it’s proper point in the
system.
Electrical Operation of the ABS System
I examined the FORD Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual for the 89
through 92 model years. The electrical system for the ABS System was virtually
identical between all model years. Lets describe what happens to power this
system.
When the ignition key is placed into the start or run position, power is
applied to a portion of the ABS Control Module (Electronic Controller) via the
10A CLUSTER Fuse. The ABS Control Module applies power to the Anti-Lock Power
Relay when the Ignition Switch is placed into the START Position. This relay
closes it’s contacts allowing power to flow from the ABS MOD 30A Fuse in the
Primary Distribution Box (inside the engine compartment) to the rest of the
ABS Control Module. This relay is a "seal-in relay" in that it continues to be
closed even when the Ignition Switch is released to the run position. The
purpose for this relay is that it allows a relatively large amperage load to
be powered but not directly from the ignition switch. This way up to 30A of
power can be supplied to the system without relying on the contacts in the
ignition switch to do it. After the system is energized it performs a self
test. If you place your ignition switch to the run position without starting
the car you can watch this test being run. This self test will check
electrical continuity of the system as well as the Electronic Controller for
proper operation. The Amber Anti-Lock light will illuminate for approximately
4 seconds and then extinguish if all is well with your system. If you then
place the switch to the start position and start your car you should see the
following cycling of lights. The Amber Anti-Lock and Red Brake Light should
illuminate. The Hydraulic Pump Motor most likely will run since the pressure
sensed by the Pressure Switch in the system is probably low (below 2030 PSI)if
the car has been sitting a while. The Pressure Switch will allow power from
the ANTI LOCK 10A Fuse to cause the Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay to close it’s
contacts allowing power to flow to the pump motor from the ABS MTR 40 A fuse.
It will also cause the Anti-Lock Warning Light to be illuminated. The pump
running will pressurize the hydraulic accumulator to around 2650 PSI at which
point the pressure switch contacts will open, the Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay
will drop out and the pump will stop as well as the red and amber lights will
extinguish. For all applicable model years the Anti-Lock Power Relay and the
Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay are located on the passenger side firewall area.
When facing the engine bay these relays are located as follows:
89 Model Year,(Left to Right) WOT AC Cutout Relay, Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay,
Anti-Lock Power Relay
90 Model Year(Left to Right) WOT AC Cutout Relay, Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay,
Anti-Lock Power Relay
91 Model Year(Left to Right) Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay, Anti-Lock Power
Relay, WOT AC Cutout Relay
92 Model Year(Left to Right) Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay, Anti-Lock Power
Relay, WOT AC Cutout Relay
Note: This information based on diagrams in the Ford EVTM’s for the
appropriate year. If it is wrong, blame FORD not me.
The CLUSTER and ANTI LOCK fuses are located in the Primary Junction Box in the
passenger compartment and the ABS MOD and ABS MTR fuses in the Power
Distribution Box in the engine compartment.
Basic Troubleshooting
Most of the problems associated with this system seem to revolve around the
electrical operation of the Hydraulic Pump Motor and the Accumulator. So lets
describe what some of the common symptoms are and what you can do about it.
Hard pedal Amber Anti Lock and Red Brake Light always on.
The hard pedal is indication of no power assist which we now knows means the
Accumulator is not pressurized or the hydraulic pump is not running to
pressurize the system. You should also realize that you don’t have ANY rear
brakes too. Run the Self Test and see the Amber Warning Light goes out in 4
seconds. Have an assistant stand by the open hood to listen for the Hydraulic
Pump Motor to run when you start the car.
If the pump runs most likely you have a bad Accumulator or the pump is not
being supplied with fluid because sediment has plugged the low pressure hose
leading from the reservoir. Check the hose is unplugged and if that doesn’t
correct the problem replace the Accumulator. If this doesn’t fix your problem
you are into a high buck Pump Assembly replacement. (You already replaced the
Accumulator so don’t buy another one now). For reference you should be able to
press on the brake pedal from 5-8 times without the Hydraulic Pump Motor
running. If this is not that case you are due for an Accumulator soon.
If the pump does not run you now most likely have an external electrical
problem although it is possible the pump motor is shot. Here is how to tell
what is what. With the Ignition Switch off depress the brake pedal 20 times to
ensure the system is fully depressurized. Turn the Ignition Switch to Run the
pump should run. If not disconnect the 4 pin connector on the pump. Use a
multi meter to measure the voltage on the pins of the harness connector. The
two positive pins are on opposite side of the connector as are the negative
pins. Measure from one positive to one negative pin. (See figure 3).You should
measure more than `10V DC. If you don’t potential problems include either the
Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay, The Pressure Switch or the wiring harness between
them all.
The failure of the Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay is a common occurrence. The
normal failure modes are the contacts welded themselves shut causing the
Hydraulic Pump Motor to run continuous or the relay failing to close which
prevents normal pump motor operation. To verify relay operation it would be
possible to disconnect the harness connector to the Anti-Lock Pressure Switch
and ground pin 4 of the connector to ground. This will complete the circuit
for the coil of the Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay and should cause the pump to
turn on. If the pump does not run most likely the relay is bad and must be
replaced. If the motor does run the Pressure Switch may be the faulty part and
should be replaced. The FORD Shop Manual states that if the Pressure Switch is
replaced the Hydraulic Pump Motor Relay should be replaced as well.
Anti-Lock Warning Light and Red Brake Light come on after brakes applied.
Most likely this is indication of a weak or bad Accumulator. If you have this
symptom it is important to fix it as soon as you can because you are cycling
the Hydraulic Pump Motor unnecessarily which will cause this high buck part to
fail sooner than it needs to.
Red Brake Light comes on when accelerating or braking or going around a corner
hard.
Probably your brake fluid level is a tad low. Angles and dangles on the car
are causing it to pick up the level sensor. Make sure your system is
pressurized when you check / add fluid since the Accumulator will "store" an
appreciable amount of fluid. This will cause the level to go down as the
system is pressurized at start up. Where did the fluid go you might ask?
Assuming you have no leaks it probably is as a result of the brake pads in
your calipers wearing. As they wear more fluid is required to keep the caliper
pistons maintained in the proper position for braking action.
Other Problems that might be troubleshot by the DIY
Just like the EEC the ABS System has a Test Connector which may be used to
download error codes from the ABS Electronic Controller. It is located on the
right rear quarter panel trunk area. The types of codes present here will be
basic system faults which will cause the Amber Anti-Lock Warning Light to
remain lit even after 4 seconds have elapsed on the Self-Test. As far as I
know, any aftermarket Code Reader that is compatible with the FORD EEC System
can be used to access these signals. Two things to be aware of though. One, if
the first code received is in the 20’s, service the indicated fault. No other
codes can be outputted to the code reader if a 20’s fault exists. After
servicing the 20’s code repeat getting codes from the Electronic Controller.
Two, the memory can be cleared only by reading all codes present, all faults
being corrected (anti-lock warning light off) and the vehicle being driven
above 25 MPH.
The troubleshooting techniques used for these type of problems are more
involved than what is commonly used, but I have included the Service Codes for
those of you that are more adventurous. I have tried to give a short summary
of what checks are made but if it is not something obvious you are going to
have to get the manual or visit a dealer unfortunately. I included this to
give you a direction to look for the obvious rather than becoming an ABS
Expert Troubleshooter. There are other checks detailed in each Pin Point Check
Section other than what I am listing.
Service Code Component
11 Electronic Controller (Clear memory Read codes … get 11 or 99 replace
Electronic Controller)
12 Electronic Controller-Replacer ( Clear memory Read codes…get 12 replace
Electronic Controller)
21 Main Valve (Disconnect main 2 Pin Plug on Hydraulic Actuator Assembly &
measure resistance. 2 to 5.5 Ohms, service cable harness, any other reading
replace Actuation Assembly)
22 LH Front Inlet Valve (Disconnect 7 pin connector on Valve Block, measure
resistance Pin 7-6, 5-8 ohms service harness, other reading replace valve
block).
23 LH Front Outlet Valve(Disconnect 7 pin connector on Valve Block, measure
resistance Pin 7-5, 5-8 ohms service harness, other reading replace valve
block).
24 RH Front Inlet Valve (Disconnect 7 pin connector on Valve Block, measure
resistance Pin 7-1 5-8 ohms service harness, other reading replace valve
block).
25 RH Front Outlet Valve (Disconnect 7 pin connector on Valve Block, measure
resistance Pin 7-2, 5-8 ohms service harness, other reading replace valve
block).
26 Rear Inlet Valve (Disconnect 7 pin connector on Valve Block, measure
resistance Pin 7-3, 5-8 ohms service harness, other reading replace valve
block).
27 Rear Outlet Valve & Ground (Requires use of EEC Break-out Box)
31 LH Front Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
32 RH Front Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
33 RH Rear Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
34 LH Rear Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
35 LH Front Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
36 RH Front Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
37 RH Rear Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)r
38 LH Rear Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
41 LH Front Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
42 RH Front Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
43 RH Rear Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
44 LH Rear Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
45 LH Front and one Other Sensor Signal (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check
harness)
46 RH Front and one Other Sensor Signal (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check
harness
47 Missing both rear sensor signals (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check
harness
48 Missing three of four sensor signals (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check
harness
51 LH Front Outlet Valve (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness)
52 RH Front Outlet Valve (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness
53 Rear Outlet Valve (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness)
54 Rear Outlet Valve (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness)
55 LH Front Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
56 RH Front Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
57 RH Rear Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
58 LH Rear Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
61 Fluid Level Indicator Circuit (FLI)and Pressure Warning Switch (PWS)
Circuit (For FLI disconnect 5 pin connector on fluid reservoir measure pin 1 &
2 for resistance > 2 ohms replace indicator, For PWS disconnect Pressure
Switch connector measure pins 3 & 5 should have a short if not replace
Pressure Switch FOR PWS CHECK SYSTEM MUST BE PRESSURIZED)
71 LH Front Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
72 RH Front Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked for continuity to vehicle ground. If there is continuity…replace
wheel sensor)
73 RH Rear Sensor ((Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked for continuity to vehicle ground. If there is continuity…replace
wheel sensor))
74 LH Rear Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked for continuity to vehicle ground. If there is continuity…replace
wheel sensor)
75 LH Front Sensor Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
76 RH Front Sensor (Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
77 RH Rear Sensor Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
78 LH Rear Sensor Requires EEC Break-out Box to check harness but sensor can
be checked 800 - 1400 Ohms is good. Other than that…replace wheel sensor)
88 Electronic Controller (Clear memory Read codes … get 11 or 99 replace
Electronic Controller)
99 Electronic Controller (Clear memory Read codes … get 11 or 99 replace
Electronic Controller)
If you come up with Wheel Sensor Codes make sure to check the indicator rings
for missing teeth or other damage. It is also important to maintain proper gap
between the sensor and the rings. Although this is not adjustable, faulty
wheel bearings which allow the wheel to "float" axially too far can be a
source of problems.
Self Induced Potential Problems
Given that signals are generated from each wheel sensor that is proportional
to the speed of rotation changes to wheel diameter may have a detrimental
effect on the ABS System. This is particularly true for those that choose to
run different tire sizes front to back. This difference in tire height will be
seen as the wheels rotating at different speeds thus giving the Electronic
Controller potential problems. This could cause the ABS System to actuate when
neither warranted or desired or may prevent it’s proper operation when needed.
Please be careful when making changes in tire sizes or brands of tires. Some
TEVES ABS systems can be reprogrammed to compensate for changes made to the
tire size on the vehicle. Unfortunately the FORD TEVES System is not capable
of that.
Another area of potential problem is the manner in which the brake system is
bleed. Since this is a High Pressure ABS System certain procedures must be
followed to perform these operations. Front Brakes can be bleed in a
conventional manner either with the Ignition Key ON and the system pressurized
or with the system depressurized. Rear Brakes are a different matter
altogether though. The Ignition Switch must be ON and the system pressurized
to get this bleed operation to work. Be aware that the system will have a lot
of pressure on it so the brake pedal does not have to be pressed very far to
get flow to the rear brake circuit.
When you decide to change your own brake pads here is another thing to think
about. When the brake pads are pressed back into the caliper, any "junk" in
the lines will be forced back into the ABS Hydraulic Actuator Assembly
possibly contaminating the system. My suggestion is to bleed the brake system
before doing the brake job to flush out some of the contaminants from the
system before they can do damage. An alternative is to clamp off the brake
hose but personally I am not too fond of that method.
Choices in remanufacturing your ABS Hydraulic Actuator Assembly
Given that FORD wants in excess of $1500.00 for a new Hydraulic Actuator
Assembly I think you better consider a rebuild of your present unit as an
alternative. In preparation for doing this article I contacted two reman
companies for out TEVES ABS System. The two choices are Cardone Industries and
SIA Electronics. I do not have much to say about what Cardone can do since
even though I contacted their Marketing Department twice for information they
did not provide any to me. I do know that they will not deal with customers
directly preferring to deal through distributors only. I was unable to
determine their entire network of distributors but do know that Car Quest is
one company they deal with.
www.priorreman.com is another choice and cheaper than SIA
Electronics.
References
FORD Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manuals for the Model years 89-92
Credits
I would like to thank the following people for their assistance in assembling
the necessary technical information for this article.
Mr. George Davenport
Mr. Bryce Elledge
Mr. Lee Yaccarino
"SC Kido" Mr. Luis Garcia
"Kar Doktor" Mr. Craig H. Donor
by: Duffy Floyd at: 7/30/01 2:36:02 am