Trekie47

Registered User
Hi there, I was ogling at the engine in my 1991 super coupe one day after a drive and noticed that my crankshaft pulley seemed to be a little wobbly. I'm not sure how long it had been like that as I've only owned the car for a little over a year and done little to no driving in it, but after doing some investigation i believe one of the previous.... delightful owners of this poor car reinstalled the pulley incorrectly. It was held on by 3 13mm bolts, and 1 12mm bolt with a washer. The harmonic balancer had no play or wobble after i removed the pulley, and as you can see in these pictures the holes in the pulley have seen better days.

Fast forward to today when i received my replacement harmonic balancer and pulley combo from rock auto, and it's just not even close. So i was doing some more digging and found this for sale on super coupe performance and i was looking for a second, maybe third opinion on this being a fix for my issue
 

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Couple items, the pulley on the car appears to be an aftermarket underdrive pulley from a quick glance...not sure that justifies the mis matched bolts and the wobble but it doesn't appear like the stock unit.

Also the jackshaft pulley you mention on SCP is the pulley thats located under the AC compressor. It will not work on the balancer.

You're likely best off posting in the Wanted section for a stock balancer pulley or searching eBay for a replacement.

-Tim
 
The pulley on the car appears to be a part of a 3 piece under drive set. Usually the water pump pulley and alternator pulley are associated with the kit. I think they've been long discontinued like many of the aftermarket items for these cars.

Also another alternative is get the Magnum Powers balancer pulley from SCP.

Sorry for multiple posts...cellphone decided it was going to send first before finished.

-Tim
 
The pulley on the car appears to be a part of a 3 piece under drive set. Usually the water pump pulley and alternator pulley are associated with the kit. I think they've been long discontinued like many of the aftermarket items for these cars.

Also another alternative is get the Magnum Powers balancer pulley from SCP.

Sorry for multiple posts...cellphone decided it was going to send first before finished.

-Tim
So if the pulley that was on there already was an underdrive pulley, maybe the one that i got from rock auto was the right pulley? From what i could see the waterpump, and alternator are still OEM pulleys.
 
If your belts are in decent shape see if you can read the numbers off them and see if that cross references to stock belts if not you then would at least know that something in the belt drive system has changed to non stock diameter and doing it that way doesn't cost you money unfortunately it probably will cost time
 
For reference if you're looking for an MP pulley kit...

• MP's 15%, direct from MP is $350 + ship:

• MP's 15% sold by SCP is $446 shipped:

MP sells both 15% & 20% ($380 + ship), as well.
 
Very possible what rock auto sent is the correct dimension. Again based on the metal texture I believe what you took off was part of the March under drive kit or ASP under drive setup. Again I feel both are a distant past performance item for these cars.

I'd give the rock auto pulley a try. Also on the original 3 piece kit the original equipment belt was used so it may still be the original length belt also.

-Tim
 
Attached a picture of what the ASP 3 piece kit looked like ...think crank was smaller and water pump alternator larger.

-Tim
 

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Another note the bolt pattern on the crank pulley is not symmetrical. Have to spin it till all the holes line up.
 
Attached a picture of what the ASP 3 piece kit looked like ...think crank was smaller and water pump alternator larger.

-Tim
i'm inclined to agree that it has the ASP crank shaft under drive pulley on, but from what i can tell at least the water pump is still OEM. It's got the ford logo on it.
 
For reference if you're looking for an MP pulley kit...

• MP's 15%, direct from MP is $350 + ship:

• MP's 15% sold by SCP is $446 shipped:

MP sells both 15% & 20% ($380 + ship), as well.
It looks like it already has a 5% jackshaft pulley on there, but a stock super charger pulley. I'm hesitant on asking more from the super charger right now because i know it was neglected, and probably due for a rebuild sooner rather than later
 

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Also while i have y'all here, there is a sticker on the inside of the door stating that the odometer had been replaced. Should i take the mileage off of that and add it to whats on the existing odometer to get the actual mileage or did they set up the new odometer with the proper mileage?
 
That would be nearly impossible to figure out I would think I mean who's to say they did anything other than put a used Odom in it with God only could guess how many miles and just slap the sticker on the door jamb to say hey this isn't the right mileage
 
>sticker on the inside of the door stating that the odometer had been replaced.
Ideally the replacement odometer should be set with the vehicle's actual miles and disclosed via a sticker attached to the door jamb. If the actual miles are unknown, that needs to be documented too.

What does it say on your title? "Not actual miles; total miles unknown; miles exempt; ...?"

Where I live: "...enter your mileage EXACTLY AS IT APPEARS ON YOUR ODOMETER. DO NOT INCLUDE “TENTHS”. If the odometer does not reflect the actual miles on the car, check the box that says “The odometer reading is NOT the actual mileage. WARNING-ODOMETER DISCREPANCY”. If the odometer reflects the actual mileage don’t check off any box."

What is the law in your state? Have you removed the cluster to see if there are any stickers about mileage on it? Maybe a shop/vendor name you can use to sherlock the question?

Find your state here to check the disclosure statements: https://eforms.com/odometer-disclosure-statement/

Example of state legaleze "If an odometer is repaired or replaced and the odometer is incapable of registering the same mileage as before the repair or replacement, the odometer should be adjusted to read zero and a notice must be attached to the door frame specifying the mileage prior to replacement."

I think that you would add them up only if you have documentation saying to do just that. If you have no relative documentation, then there is no way to know if you should do that.

Did you carfax the car yet?
 
Ideally the replacement odometer should be set with the vehicle's actual miles and disclosed via a sticker attached to the door jamb. If the actual miles are unknown, that needs to be documented too.

What does it say on your title? "Not actual miles; total miles unknown; miles exempt; ...?"

Where I live: "...enter your mileage EXACTLY AS IT APPEARS ON YOUR ODOMETER. DO NOT INCLUDE “TENTHS”. If the odometer does not reflect the actual miles on the car, check the box that says “The odometer reading is NOT the actual mileage. WARNING-ODOMETER DISCREPANCY”. If the odometer reflects the actual mileage don’t check off any box."

What is the law in your state? Have you removed the cluster to see if there are any stickers about mileage on it? Maybe a shop/vendor name you can use to sherlock the question?

Find your state here to check the disclosure statements: https://eforms.com/odometer-disclosure-statement/

Example of state legaleze "If an odometer is repaired or replaced and the odometer is incapable of registering the same mileage as before the repair or replacement, the odometer should be adjusted to read zero and a notice must be attached to the door frame specifying the mileage prior to replacement."

I think that you would add them up only if you have documentation saying to do just that. If you have no relative documentation, then there is no way to know if you should do that.

Did you carfax the car yet?
on the 5 titles that i have transfered into my name, none of them have required millage, so i'm guessing that im supposed to add the amount listed on the door sticker. I have no done a carfax yet as i don't want to pay for one.
 
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