Transmission Fluid?

JesseTSI

Registered User
So the parts store told me the automatic transmission in my 90 takes 3 quarts of transmission fluid.

I drained it, let it drip for a few hours, put almost 4 and there is hardly anything on the dipstick.

What kind of fluid is recommended first off? and how many quarts?
 
So the parts store told me the automatic transmission in my 90 takes 3 quarts of transmission fluid.

I drained it, let it drip for a few hours, put almost 4 and there is hardly anything on the dipstick.

What kind of fluid is recommended first off? and how many quarts?

Dexron III Mercon

The automatic holds about 12 quarts with the converter drained. If you didn't drain the converter, after adding about 8 quarts start the motor and cycle it through the gears and check the fluid level with motor running while in park. Keep adding as needed until it shows full on the dipstick.

David
 
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how do I drain the converter?

Can anyone else chime in? Because parts shop told me that it took 3 quarts
 
Hi All
I changed my oil like this, it's from the FAQ at
<www.thedieselstop.com>

"Changing ATF in a '99-up SuperDuty

I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.

1. Things you need to get started:
a. The transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON ATF (do NOT buy MERCON V!). Ford also warns against using a fluid that has a dual MERCON and MERCON V rating. You may use either conventional or synthetic, as long as it meets the above requirements.
b. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler hose. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying!
c. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.
2. Drain the pan, then replace and tighten the drain plug.
3. Pour 7 quarts of new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube.
4. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler. This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. This is where the old ATF from the torque convertor and coolers will come out.
5. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.
a. Run the engine until you see some air in the clear tubing. As soon as you see air shut off the engine.
b. While the engine is running in step 5a above, move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.
c. Refill through the dipstick tube with 6 quarts of new ATF. (That's 13 quarts total so far).
6. Repeat steps 5a and 5c. (That's 19 quarts total so far).
7. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission.
8. Check the fluid level and use the last quart of ATF to top off.
9. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.
10. Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.
11. Then get back in the '99-up forum and tell us your "lessons learned" for those that follow you.


Now that we understand the basic procedure, let's muddy the water with the options:

Optional: Change the tranny filter. Revise paragraph 2 above to read:

2. Drain the pan, remove the pan, replace the tranny filter, install the pan, then replace and tighten the drain plug.
Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.
I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged.
It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.

Optional: Drain the torque convertor. Add the following to paragraph 2 above:

If your truck was built before August, 2001, then you may have a drain plug in the torque convertor. If you do, then you can also drain the torque convertor as part of step 2 above. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.
To drain the torque converter remove the shield (but NOT the upper right bolt - this one only needs to be loosened) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you drain the torque convertor, be sure to replace the drain plug before you continue.
If you drain the torque convertor, then the old ATF won't come out of the end of the cooler line until the torque convertor is filled with ATF. So instead of waiting until you see air bubbles in the drain line in step 5a, run the engine for about 30 seconds while changing gears for step 5b, then cut off the engine.

Optional: Blow out the coolers. Add the following to paragraph 4 above.

It's not necessary, but some folks want to get every possible drop of the old ATF out of the system before they add new ATF. If you drained the torque convertor, then you might also want to blow the ATF out of the coolers and cooler lines. If you have an air compressor, you can reduce the pressure to about 15 PSI, remove the cooler "hot" line from the front of the tranny, and blow air into that line. That will force the ATF in the coolers and lines out the cooler return line at the back of the tranny. DO NOT use air pressure of more than about 15 PSI! Then be sure to reconnect that line before you continue with paragraph 5.

Optional: Don't even drain the pan!

The tranny pump will get almost all of the ATF out of the pan, so some folks don't even drain the pan before they begin. Move paragraph 4 up to the top before paragraph 2, then instead of draining the pan paragraph 2 would say you simply run the engine until you see air bubbles in the drain line."
 
You'd have to remove the converter to drain it.



Jay

No you don't. There's a small drain plug on the converter that you can access from below the car. The problem is that you will need someone turning the crank over until the drain plug is able to be accessed. It's a small plug. I'm getting ready to do this myself and am going to drain the converter as well. It's not impossible as a one man job, but it's a ton easier if you have another set of hands. I may be able to jump under my SC today and take a picture of where you can access the drain plug for the converter. If it's nice the way it's supposed to be, I'll check it out.

Sam
 
parts shop is wrong for automatic, the 5 speed takes 3 qts. must have read the wrong line. In fact, I know of NO automatic that takes only 3 qts, most are around 12, gm, ford whatever.
 
how do I drain the converter?

Can anyone else chime in? Because parts shop told me that it took 3 quarts

Jesse,

Who you gonna trust...someone who has changed the fluid numerous times or some guy at the parts store that doesn't know an SC from a Prelude ?

David
 
To empty my autos if there isnt a tranny drain plug.....

I disconnect the tranny feed line to the cooler or to the rad ..Might need a hunk of hose...Then have someone start the car and let the fluid pump in a bucket......When it starts to spurt and you can see the level is getting low I have the car shut off right away....Dont keep it going til the fluid is gone....Usually end up with less then a quart in the pan afterwards......


When refilling I was always told....The tranny is dry so you dont want to flood the valve body with 5 quarts plus of tranny fluid let alone 12 quarts.....Put in three quarts...Start the car for 5 seconds..Let your tranny pump this fluid away.....Add another quart....Then with your foot on the brake...Shift the car in all gears to allow fluid through all passages of the valvebody etc while adding the remainding amout of fluid.....

To get the air out of the tranny afterwards I use the same set up.......I get a 5 gallon pail and two hunks of rubber hose.......Put the hoses off the tranny lines in the bucket....One will pump the fluid while the other sucks the fluid....This usually takes care of the air in the system.....


Seems like alot of work but really isnt...But honestly the best way is a $100 tranny flush where they push out the old fluid and pump in the new at a shop....Easier and faster....Drop your car off and go eat lunch...


F1
 
i changed trans fluid and filter in my 89.the fluid is a special high perfofmance fluid that it uses,cost me $6.00 a qurt and it holds right at 6 with filter.advance auto ot auto zone dont carry the fluid it takes.go to napa or a indepent parts store,they will have it.
 
i changed trans fluid and filter in my 89.the fluid is a special high perfofmance fluid that it uses,cost me $6.00 a qurt and it holds right at 6 with filter.advance auto ot auto zone dont carry the fluid it takes.go to napa or a indepent parts store,they will have it.

:confused:

It takes much more than 6 quarts and the reccomended fluid is Dex III and cost about $1.50 a quart. Filter doesn't have anything to do with fluid capacity. You can put Redline, Royal Purple or any of that other high dollar stuff you want into the transmission....but it doesn't really need it, unless it's a race car.

David
 
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Response Summary

Simple question? Never.

Why it sometimes hurts as much as it helps to use the internet...


The OP asked "Transmission fluid? Parts guy says 3 quarts. What kind of fluid is recommended first off? and how many quarts?"

How many:
  • 3
  • about 12/add as needed/about 8/more than 6
  • 18...get 20
  • 6
  • 12
ATF Type:
  • Dexron III Mercon
  • Mercon
  • Not Mercon V or dual-Mercon/Mercon V
  • Special high performance
  • High dollar stuff not needed unless used in race car
...bonus answers...

Drain plug on converter:
  • No
  • Yes
When to change filter:
  • Every 3000 miles
  • When it gets dirty
  • Never
How many people:
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3 if you count the parts guy
  • Let a shop do it...

The above is not meant as criticism on anyone - it is simply an example of why people sometimes shake their heads when using car forums, from Avanti to Porsche, the rule seems to be disconnect rather than solid support.

Opinions are like keyboards...everyone has one - :)
 
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KMT,

What's your answer ?

David

What's the question?

It can be said that the OP set himself up - but then he's just as entitled to learn the hard way as we were.

You gave the best advice, but you may have assumed too much on the OP's part, sorry. The info you gave could perhaps have benefited by being directed more at a first time experience level - the poor guy is already confused. Of course that takes more time to write if it doesn't reflect your style, and hey, the guy is getting your good advice for free, so the burden is on him, right? And who are you to keep others from wanting to get their share of the limelight? Everyone is an expert on the internet. The real ones know they have to prove it over and over, each time they chime in.

How many?

Buy a 12 case of DEXRON®-III MERCON® - you'll pay less per quart and have extra for next time while safely learning for yourself how much you'll need after changing the filter and spilling some on the manifold. Start with 4 and keep adding until it reads full on the stick w/engine running, car level, trans in park and fluid hot. Recheck the next day and watch for leaks.

Ken
 
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i changed trans fluid and filter in my 89.the fluid is a special high perfofmance fluid that it uses,cost me $6.00 a qurt and it holds right at 6 with filter.advance auto ot auto zone dont carry the fluid it takes.go to napa or a indepent parts store,they will have it.

speaking of which, did anyone try that tractor fluid?
 
speaking of which, did anyone try that tractor fluid?

I've had it in my 93 for more than a year and it works real well. Shifts a little harder/quicker and runs a little cooler than the Dex III, but it is a pain in the azz if you need some extra fluid. It's also difficult to tell if you have a motor oil leak or trans fluid, because they look the same.

David
 
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