Is there a better A/C compressor / condenser than the stock unit for my 35th ( original owner ) ? After fixing all the engine bay hose leaks.*&^$%@!!... I decided that that wasn't enough pain , so I pulled the dash at 61yrs. old ( fun ) to replace the leaking heater coil and A/C evaporator , lines , dryer , A/C condenser , seals . If a crossflow condenser is better , will it fit and connect to stock A/C lines? After reading thru the A/C posts here , is there any tips on rebuilding The A/C system I need to know ? Will be taking car to the shop for its A/C charge .
My 35th came same w/R12, converted to 134 prior to my ownership. Cooling was acceptable, but over time I replaced the compressor & clutch and condenser.
New compressor was OE spec, but the condenser was part of a group thing here years ago that involved removing the OE full width unit and installing a modern parallel flow condenser that was a bit narrower in order to unblock the air coming into the intercooler. As a data point, I run an aftermarket aluminum radiator, stock fan. Supposedly parallel flow is an improvement, and since 134 is a negative we can't avoid, I consider the combination a wash what puts my Anny somewhere near to when it left the factory.
It's all relative, but last time I checked, I was getting 45° out the center vents when it was 85° ~ 90° out, here in Oregon. Biggest issue is the black Anny heat soaking the interior on hot days, but w/generous window tint, it's not a losing battle.
I would think that while using new components would improve things, the system in general will perform better, but 134's performance shouldn't change out right.
Be sure all of the foam and cardboard around the radiator is in place, and that the chin spoiler on the nose and the skirt at the bottom of the radiator, in front of the crossbar are in place. Keep in mind too that if the car is lowered, air flow into the radiator/engine bay needs all the help it can get.