Super charger top removal

Trekie47

Registered User
Hello everyone, I am trying to remove the inter-cooler piping to get to the spark plugs and motor mounts but i can't get the lock ring to budge on the top pipe. So because i don't' want to fork out $60 for the special wrench to do it with i thought it would be easier to just remove the top with the piping still attached to it. Unfortunately somebody else has been in here before me and used a metric butt ton of RTV to seal the top up and i can't get that to budge either.
Do you guys have any suggestions of what i can do?
 

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I'd remove the top bolts, use a razor blade to cut the rtv around the edges on the top to help break some of the bond and then use leverage. I'd probably prior off the alternator case or that front bracket toward the pipe. If that doesn't work with block of wood ...id use a block of wood and bang down on the pipe closest to the IC.

May even just try lifting up on the pipe also once everything is disconnected. Also make sure the lower stud on the upper pipes removed.

-Tim
 
I'd remove the top bolts, use a razor blade to cut the rtv around the edges on the top to help break some of the bond and then use leverage. I'd probably prior off the alternator case or that front bracket toward the pipe. If that doesn't work with block of wood ...id use a block of wood and bang down on the pipe closest to the IC.

May even just try lifting up on the pipe also once everything is disconnected. Also make sure the lower stud on the upper pipes removed.

-Tim
ahh, good ole percussive persuasion
 
Hello everyone, I am trying to remove the inter-cooler piping to get to the spark plugs and motor mounts but i can't get the lock ring to budge on the top pipe. So because i don't' want to fork out $60 for the special wrench to do it with i thought it would be easier to just remove the top with the piping still attached to it. Unfortunately somebody else has been in here before me and used a metric butt ton of RTV to seal the top up and i can't get that to budge either.
Do you guys have any suggestions of what i can do?
Trekie there is also a bolt hidden underneath the intercooler tube. Make sure you take that out. I was in the same boat when I got mine. I just used alot of patience and wiggle and jiggle with light tapping utilizing my rubber mallet. It is really a tuff piece of aluminum. I just made sure not to scratch anything on it.
 
I am going to use this stuff when I put it back on right. Also the Front passenger side spark plug is a real pain. I removed the reservoir and intake and little moved the hoses out of the way to get at it from the top if I remember.
 

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Here is the bolt...mine is off.
Trekie there is also a bolt hidden underneath the intercooler tube. Make sure you take that out. I was in the same boat when I got mine. I just used alot of patience and wiggle and jiggle with light tapping utilizing my rubber mallet. It is really a tuff piece of aluminum. I just made sure not to scratch anything on it.
i've gotten the nut off, but i still need to remove the stud.
 
I am going to use this stuff when I put it back on right. Also the Front passenger side spark plug is a real pain. I removed the reservoir and intake and little moved the hoses out of the way to get at it from the top if I remember.
i have come to accept doing anything on this vehicle is going to cause me both physical and spiritual pain. I still have no idea how i'm going to get the old motor mounts out, but i'm hoping that once i get the intercooler piping out ill have more room to see what i have to do.

did you use the permitex stuff on the supercharger top, or just on the pipes?
 
Here's a tear down video I posted on YouTube to help with motor mounts and doing a tune up.


If you need any help let me know, I've worked on enough of these cars I could do it in my sleep if you get stuck.

-Tim
 
i have come to accept doing anything on this vehicle is going to cause me both physical and spiritual pain. I still have no idea how i'm going to get the old motor mounts out, but i'm hoping that once i get the intercooler piping out ill have more room to see what i have to do.

did you use the permitex stuff on the supercharger top, or just on the pipes?
The plugs took me about 6 hours. It was my first time. The Drivers side is pretty "easy" per say. I have a long extension(s) and many types of universal joint socket set adapters. After some thought, I believe I had my son reach his little hand in the front right to get it started. I always make sure to start all my bolts by hand. Just be patient and take your time. Wish I had recorded how I did mine. I believe I did the Front two drivers side from the top. The front passenger side from the top. (this one I got a 2x4 and pushed the lines there slightly out of the way with caution. Removed the intake and coolant reservoir. The backs and mostly did from the bottom. I would highly encourage you to change them. Mine were absolutely shot. The scuttle butt on the forum is DO NOT USE the BOSCH spark plugs. There are several different preferences here on how to gap them. It is super charged so that is a bit different. Something about blowing out the spark. I had to change mine. Rats ate into the spark plug wires, one of the wires was barely on. I honestly do not know how it was getting any spark. I am not worried about doing it again when needed.
#1 Make sure you wear some good googles or safety glasses underneath. These things are old and all kinds of crap will get in your eyes.
#2 To answer your other question I put the Permatax flange sealant on top of the super charger and at the Intercooler/tube connection. I just get the nuts snug. I did not put any on the connector that requires the special tool. I cleaned all the surfaces on the tub with my dremel polisher. The scuttlebutt on this forum is that this sealant will not destroy your super charger is some gets in it. Black RTV will. I just do a light 1/8" bead around. Also, while it is drying I make sure to lossen and tighten the bolts on top of the super charger to be sure they do not get ceased up with this stuff. Thats what happened when the guy before my used black RTV. I honestly have been running it for about a year without any sealant. My buddy who does super chargers alot says it really affects your gas mileage so I just put it on tonight. Internet says about and hour to dry because it hardens in an oxygen less environment and contact with the aluminum. Sorry for the long post. Hope this helps.
 
The plugs took me about 6 hours. It was my first time. The Drivers side is pretty "easy" per say. I have a long extension(s) and many types of universal joint socket set adapters. After some thought, I believe I had my son reach his little hand in the front right to get it started. I always make sure to start all my bolts by hand. Just be patient and take your time. Wish I had recorded how I did mine. I believe I did the Front two drivers side from the top. The front passenger side from the top. (this one I got a 2x4 and pushed the lines there slightly out of the way with caution. Removed the intake and coolant reservoir. The backs and mostly did from the bottom. I would highly encourage you to change them. Mine were absolutely shot. The scuttle butt on the forum is DO NOT USE the BOSCH spark plugs. There are several different preferences here on how to gap them. It is super charged so that is a bit different. Something about blowing out the spark. I had to change mine. Rats ate into the spark plug wires, one of the wires was barely on. I honestly do not know how it was getting any spark. I am not worried about doing it again when needed.
#1 Make sure you wear some good googles or safety glasses underneath. These things are old and all kinds of crap will get in your eyes.
#2 To answer your other question I put the Permatax flange sealant on top of the super charger and at the Intercooler/tube connection. I just get the nuts snug. I did not put any on the connector that requires the special tool. I cleaned all the surfaces on the tub with my dremel polisher. The scuttlebutt on this forum is that this sealant will not destroy your super charger is some gets in it. Black RTV will. I just do a light 1/8" bead around. Also, while it is drying I make sure to lossen and tighten the bolts on top of the super charger to be sure they do not get ceased up with this stuff. Thats what happened when the guy before my used black RTV. I honestly have been running it for about a year without any sealant. My buddy who does super chargers alot says it really affects your gas mileage so I just put it on tonight. Internet says about and hour to dry because it hardens in an oxygen less environment and contact with the aluminum. Sorry for the long post. Hope this helps.
When i was buying a new throttle body i picked up the motorcraft ones on super coupe performance, but i suppose i should head on over to one of the threads specifying how they are supposed to be gaped. Thank you very much for the information, I hope i can take it and use it to protect my sanity.
 
Here's a tear down video I posted on YouTube to help with motor mounts and doing a tune up.


If you need any help let me know, I've worked on enough of these cars I could do it in my sleep if you get stuck.

-Tim
You sir are a proper legend. I had been looking for a video like this, so thank you very much and i appreciate all of the assistance you have provided already.
 
Only use something that you know is O2 sensor safe. Blue RTV should work, just use it sparingly.
The cool thing about the blue flange sealent is thst it will never dry unless it is compressed with an absence of oxygen. So, if any drips in anything it just like a oil that never dries...ie just gets flushed out of everthing. Pretty magic stuff.
 
Do the spark plugs from under the car. Use the red anaerobic sealer for the top. do not RTV.
Making a ‘spanner’ is not hard, cut a hardened piece of 1/4” steel in a matching arc with a tab at the end of the arc. Then cut a 3/8 or 1/2” square (for breaker bar) in the other end.
 
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