1989 DIS Module Alternatives

FurryWrecker911

SCCoA Member
The number I got off of my 89 is E9DF-12A297-BA, secondary number 9D11A. I see on TBSC Shop they used to have DIS modules with the same part number for both the SC and the Taurus SHO, but all the SHO listings I can find on Ebay have different part numbers. I can't even find any Tbird listings.

Second to that, I saw for the 91-93s the module number is DY958, but all I can find for sale are DY959 which is for the Rangers, Taurus, and Mustang. Are these interchangeable? Also will these work on an 89/90 model year?

Lastly there is a "Standard Motor Products LX230 Ignition Control Module" listing on Amazon. Would that work?

Really, my goal here is to get my hands on a spare DIS.
 
Thanks , my 89 runs fine for 5 minutes than starts bucking. Fuel and cam sensor is ok. Have not been able to find a new DIS anywhere. I will try this one.
Your fuel sensor is ok, not sure what you are referring to? Are you just referring to to quality & supply of fuel?
 
Your fuel sensor is ok, not sure what you are referring to? Are you just referring to to quality & supply of fuel?
Yes fuel pump,regulator all good. New cam sensor because tack was jumping around. I have owned this car for 23 years and between fixes, including complete rebuild its been reliable. No lie. Next step will be to clean and check wiring because I have three used DIS modules and the engine bucks when warmed up with all three. I do not know the condition of these modules. I need to try a known good one. I'm in Fla hot here. Thank you so much for your help.
 
The small harness connecting the DIS, cam sensor & crank sensor to each other is known for breaking down when it gets warm. I think the insulation gets brittle from repeated heat cycles. The preferred way to test it, is to remove & bench test it. Start by removing all plastic protective covering & looking for chaffed wires.Check each circuit for continuity while bending/twisting it & see if any become "open" or short. If nothing seems apparent, try using a hair dryer/ heat gun.
 
Ok so update on this, the Standard Motor Products LX230 will NOT work with the 89. The bolt pattern is different, so only the 7-12 side can be bolted down. The 1-6 side are in totally different zip codes.

Worse yet, the car won't even fire up now. It just cranks, hydrolocks (I guess) on the 12th turn over, cranks, locks again, cranks, locks again, repeat ad infitum. I am at wits-fucking-end on this thing. I'm putting the old DIS back on and going back to the drawing board. I'm running out of ideas. It just stinks to me like something is hanging up and commanding constant fuel.
 
The small harness connecting the DIS, cam sensor & crank sensor to each other is known for breaking down when it gets warm. I think the insulation gets brittle from repeated heat cycles. The preferred way to test it, is to remove & bench test it. Start by removing all plastic protective covering & looking for chaffed wires.Check each circuit for continuity while bending/twisting it & see if any become "open" or short. If nothing seems apparent, try using a hair dryer/ heat gun.
I have a question for you in regards to that. What are the tiny Square connectors all over the harness for? They have a T-shaped female receptical, and one of them goes to the OBD1 diagnostics plug. Mine right at the CPS was frayed to the point that only 4 hairs of wire are holding it together, so when I did the second teardown (which this hasn't recovered from since) I wrapped it up in tape. It might be completely cooked by now. The one on the driver's side has the same fraying damage, but not to the save severety.
 
The small harness connecting...
Secondary post to add to my reply: I remembered I took photos of it. These were almost a year ago as I was putting it back together. Image one is the part of the harness that sits by the supercharger top had. Image two gets fed down by the cam position sensor.
 

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The small harness connecting the DIS, cam sensor & crank sensor to each other is known for breaking down when it gets warm. I think the insulation gets brittle from repeated heat cycles. The preferred way to test it, is to remove & bench test it. Start by removing all plastic protective covering & looking for chaffed wires.Check each circuit for continuity while bending/twisting it & see if any become "open" or short. If nothing seems apparent, try using a hair dryer/ heat gun.
I don't recall seeing that the wiring harness is known for breaking down, but I believe rhat is the cause of my intermittent tach issue (only happens when underhood temperatures get hot--mostly outside air temperatures higher than 65 degF)

Any interest in coming to Missouri for some troubleshooting sessions?
 
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